Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses 'Clos de la Croix de Pierre' 1er Cru 2000

Recently I have been drinking a lot of American and Australian wines. I have always been a sucker for the rich, oaked Pinots from Oregon and California, and with an upcoming move to the Barossa Valley, have been trying more and more Shiraz. Except for last night. Every once in a while it's good to shock your palate and go back to a completely different style. I have recently been working on figuring out drinking windows for the Fine Wine Room at Luvians Bottle Shop and the last week or so has seen me going through our Burgundy section. What better way to see if the critics are right about 1er Crus' general potential to age for 10-15 years than to try a bottle? 

Louis Jadot is one of the largest and most well-known of Burgundy negociants, with plots and grape growers all over Burgundy, from the Nuits, to Beaune, Macon and Beaujolais. It makes wine at all price points and really showcases the best of the region. Pernand Vergelesses is a village in the north of the Cote de Beaune and makes white and red wine on its cool east-facing slopes that protect the vines from the pesky weather. In the area, Pommard, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune itself often make Pernand-Vergelesses wines relatively good value for money (as was the case for this wine, sitting at £25). 

Appearance: Just what I had hoped for in a 14 year old Burgundy: Light, dusty garnet colour - slightly rusty with orange tinted edges.

Nose: When first opened it gave off strong earthy aromas that would give it away as a Burgundy instantly in a blind tasting: notes of tobacco, farmyard and wet fur slowly gave way to macerated strawberries and tart cherries. As it opened up over the next hour the fruit came forward. Hints of liquorice and cedar wood developed, as well as a beautifully inviting rose petal note.

Palate: The palate was light and dry, with high acidity and low tannins, as you would expect from a Pinot. Initially it was quite funky (mushrooms, truffles, dusty farmy notes), but with time in the glass it blossomed. The purity of fruit was amazing, strawberries and cherries bursting on the mid-palate. Spicy notes popped up all over the place - cinnamon, clove, anise - complementing and backing the subtle vanilla hints from the oak ageing. This all blends seamlessly to a lengthy and powerful finish.

Conclusions: The wine has certainly aged well. The funky farmyard notes would have been too overpowering a few years ago, but have mellowed into a perfect drinking window just now. Amazing depth and complexity showed as it opened up in the glass: this wine proves Burgundy 1er Cru should be drunk either very young or after 14-16 years! Cracking Pinot and unmistakably Burgundy

  

Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay 2006

Here in the UK, Ridge Vineyards holds a special place in every wine-lover's mind. Though we only get a selection of their impressive range, what does make it across the pond always surprises and excites drinkers. Some expect the boldest, oak-heavy, Cabs, Zins and Chardonnays that California has become known for. Others who know Ridge's expert blending skills and supremely balanced, restrained style are almost always still pleasantly surprised with the composure and complexity in the wines. This Chardonnay is no different. I have previously reviewed their Geyserville Zinfandel-heavy blend to show how well Zin can age and have been eyeing this 06 Chardonnay for a while, wondering how well it has stood the test of time...

Appearance: A viscous intense gold colour that still appears lively and inviting.

Nose: On the nose the wine instantly shows its development - rich, nutty aromas move on to buttered toast along with bruised apples and pears and a hint of cinnamon. There are also hints of vanilla, honeysuckle and orange rind.

Palate: Once in your mouth this wine comes alive. It is full-bodied and all-encompassing. Rich and creamy, it tastes of apple pie, with the same notes of cinnamon and other Christmas spices, as well as giving lovely nutty notes intertwined with tropical fruits too. The complexity is amazing and I could keep listing flavours that dance around - the finish caps it all off and will stay with you for what seems like an age.

Conclusion: After 8 years this Chardonnay is really impressive. Though I'm not sure it could keep going for much longer, this amount of development is perfect for it. Ridge's top vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains has produced a Chardonnay that is balanced, restrained, yet intense, powerful and exciting. The high alcohol (14.5%) is completely integrated, as is the richness from oak fermentation and ageing. Its price tag (c.£60), I would argue, is justified, as it more than competes with White Burgundy at the same level and would blow a few out of the water. The French drink old Meursault with cheese after dinner: I would drink this. Top notch stuff.

Notes from Portugal

I have recently spent a week in southern Portugal and much to my delight, was spoilt for choice when it came to wine. Like most European countries that aren't Great Britain, Portugal's wine culture is one that regards a bottle of wine not as an alcoholic drink to control, but an accompaniment to food; a refreshing drink on a hot summer's day. This is shown of course by restaurants serving nips of Port or Moscatel de Setubal when the bill is asked for. Mostly, however, it is shown in the price. Bottles in the supermarket start at around €1.49 and in restaurants at around €10. 'Wait!' I hear you cry - 'I can buy Tesco wines for £3 and Wetherspoons has bottle offers for £12!' The difference, however, is substantial. The huge amount of tax on wines imported to the UK means that the cheapest bargain bottles will have literally pennies spent on production, forcing supermarkets and pub chains to buy wine made in vast bulk quantities with little regard for quality. This is not the case in Portugal. What makes Portugal even more interesting is that most people - even wine geeks - have little to no idea about the intricacies of Portuguese grape varieties. 

There is a massive variety of styles made in the relatively small 600x200km country. From the lightest, freshest white Vinho Verde to the richest, booziest red Port there is a style for everyone. That is what made this trip exciting. Anyone who gets the chance to visit should try this: go to a local supermarket (bear with me here) and pick a random four bottles. When they are done, go do it again. It will never get old. The occasional bottle I recognised as being sold in the UK, but that only made me savour the experience more (Lavradores de Feitora Branco, a white wine from the Douro was €2.49, sold in the UK for £9.99). 

For those who like wine and are interested in more than being amazed at price differences in the EU, here is the fine print. Portugal's wine industry is made up of a number of cooperatives, and more recently, of a growing proportion of single estates (quintas) that continue to use local varietals with difficult-to-pronounce names. Inroads made by international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay are minimal and this serves to preserve what is one of the oldest geographically protected wine systems in Europe, which dates back to the mid-eighteenth century. Rapid modernisation since Portugal's entrance into the EU in 1986 thankfully hasn't changed the variety that makes Portugal's wine industry so interesting and enjoyable to explore. 

Here are a few styles that caught my attention while I was there:

Vinho Verde: It is always put on a different section in wine lists (Green Wine, White Wine, Red Wine) and with good reason. These wines from the north-west are made predominantly from Alvarinho and are often ever so slightly sparkling. They are also around 12%abv and are perfect summer wines. Light, refreshing and citrus-y, and in my opinion, far more exciting than generic Sauvignon Blanc.

Douro: Reds make up 80% of production here and are dry, powerful wines. Intense tannins and ripe fruit is often backed up with well-balanced acidity. If you splash out on a €10 bottle, expect complex spices and oak influences. Case-in-point: Quinta do Vale Meao's Meandro, €10.49 in a supermarket and an outstanding blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Rouriz and Sousao. 

Bairrada: Aromatic, yet crisp, whites were the most interesting from this region to the south-west of the Douro, with the reds too sharp in youth. Blends of Fernao Pires, Arinto and Cercial were great alternatives to Viognier or even Gewuertztraminer, with lovely weight and texture, ripe tropical fruits and good structure throughout.

All in all, Portugal was an amazing place to explore wine. The array of grapes and styles is endless, from the north to the south. There is far more in Portugal than just Port, and even though the taxes in the UK are vast, they are for all wines and most from Portugal still outstrip other countries in terms of value for money. Needless to say, it is a whole other story if you get the chance to visit yourself! Next time you are looking to try something new, ask your local bottle shop about their selection of Portuguese wines - you never know what gem you'll find.

A Year of Study, What Now?

Well, it has been nearly a year since my last post, which was about a visit to Montoliva Winery in the Sierra Foothills of Northern California. Much has happened since then - for both wine and non-wine things. A year as Captain of the Blind Tasting Team has opened my eyes to new and exciting styles and varieties as well as led to tasting success at the Sciences Po International Tasting VI at Champagne Bollinger (3rd place for St Andrews) and putting up a valiant effort at the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup qualifier in London and our Pol Roger Varsity match against Edinburgh. My final year at university will hopefully yield a degree (results coming shortly); essay work certainly led to off-topic diversions into the history of wine and grape migration to California, South America and Australia... In between tasting and university has been the WSET Level 3 course, a British-based Wine and Spirit qualification that has laid good foundations for further wine study. 

But what next?

In September I shall be traveling half way around the world to Adelaide, South Australia. I have been lucky enough to secure an internship with Yalumba, a family-owned winery in the Barossa Valley, and will be working there for a month, trying to learn as much as possible about the production process. (Yalumba, interestingly, has been a star winery in Oz for me for a while. Their Viognier is amazing and was a staple on the restaurant wine list. Check out What To Do With Viognier.) In the meantime, I am splitting my week between Luvians Bottle Shop (sales) and The Seafood Restaurant (sommelier) in beautiful St Andrews, Scotland. I'll be starting to post more regularly - musings about the industry, pairings, memorable wines - so pop back for nuggets of knowledge about all things viniferous: though I can't guarantee you'll agree with it all. If you're hip enough to have a Twitter, follow me @ItsInTheSwirl for 140-character opinions, when the mood strikes. 

Above all enjoy the sun and crack a bottle of something tasty!

A Touch Of Italy In The Sierra Foothills

The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva. 

The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.

But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do. 

Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one. 

A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future. 

Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.

Other wines tried: 

Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.

Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!

Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.

Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.

Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.

Montoliva Sierra Bella, Chicago Park, Sierra Foothills, California, 2009

The first winery that I visited was this one, around the corner from where I was staying. The small production I hoped would yield high quality and that's exactly what I found! The vineyard grows only Italian varietals in the Italian style and this is their red table wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Barbera and Teroldego.

Appearance: The wine looks dark and sleek, with an inky purple to it. It is light bodied and dances around the glass.

Nose: Very high acidity is the first thing you notice. This gives way to cinnamon, clove, anise and redcurrants.

Palate: The high acidity carries itself through a mid-palate of dark fruits and tar to the strict tannins. These, however, do not overpower the flavour, but enhance it into a complex, full-bodied finish with notes of leather and licorice. 

Rating: This wine (really the whole winery) surprised me. It completely bucks the trend in Californian wines towards sweet, thick fruity reds: There is freshness and acidity and there are stringent, Old World-style, savoury flavours throughout. Those looking for bold, oaky American wines will be disappointed, but those looking for an interesting, well-priced ($15), wonderfully food-friendly wine that shows the potential of a region on the rise will be more than satisfied. 8.5/10

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, CA, USA, 2011

This was the first wine on my 2013 California trip that I tried. Their Zin has made it across the pond (and is quite delicious at around 10 pounds per bottle), but this was the first I had seen of any other varietal. I went in expecting a big, juicy American brute of a Cab... and that's what I found!

Appearance: A strong garnet centre moved to a more purple edge with a youthful sheen to it. 

Nose: The nose starts with a slight freshness to it, with a hint of acidity, but its underlying power is almost tangible. Notes of coffee, stewed plum and aggressive cedar.

Palate: Though there is a touch of acidity, it gives way to a fruity crispness of currants and cranberries, which is then quickly washed away by thick, riper, sweeter fruits. There is a slight herbaceous zing to the back of the palate and a slight spice, but the finish is tainted by an alcoholic bite.

Rating: At 10 US dollars per bottle in California there is not much to complain about if it is the style you are looking for: it is a beefy, aggressive, thick American Cab with plenty of wood and high in alcohol (the label says 14.5). Definitely one to have with food. 7/10.