The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva.
The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.
But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do.
Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one.
A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future.
Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.
Other wines tried:
Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.
Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!
Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.
Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.
Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.
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