Before I got myself caught up in a busy semester at University I had been planning on writing one last piece on my trip to California, namely on Paul Hobbs, whose Chardonnay I loved back in February (A Spectacular Chardonnay - and still do). However, I will write up the reds I tasted there in an upcoming post once I have re-tasted a few that weighed down my suitcase on my return flight. Now I will give a little recommendation or two for those of you stuck for New Year's gifts, or a nice bottle for that last family dinner before a return to work.
The wines I have tasted recently are from New Zealand: an area that has fascinated me in the last 6 months, while working as the Sommelier of the Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews. The reason for this interest stems from the fact that a Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc that I was pouring was the best selling wine at the restaurant. I thought I should delve more into the country.
Known (sometimes unfairly) popularly just for Marlborough's Sauvignon, New Zealand is a relatively young wine-growing country, but one that is rapidly expanding with a great deal of passion and pride in quality. For my Christmas dinner this year I decided to opt for solely Kiwi wines and made a point to get wines that I had never had before and that were not what one would normally expect from the country. With roast lamb I chose a Unison Syrah (06) from the Hawke's Bay region which ended up being an outstanding match for both the meat and the following spiced butterscotch toffee pudding. With cheeses, I opted for a sweeter 08 Neudorf Riesling from Nelson with 47g/l of residual sugar (which equates it roughly with high quality Spaetlese Riesling from Germany).
The Syrah is produced in the Gimblett Gravels area of Hawke's Bay, which is 800 hectares of the best irrigated, shingled and most fertile soils in the region, known for its outstanding quality. It presented with quite a subdued nose at first, but with a little time open it was an impressively opulent yet fresh bouquet of ripe fruits that came forward. A silky smooth palate was complemented with a continuation of bold fruits into a balanced, calm tannic finish. The finish itself moved from fruit to spices and I was left with a lengthy and warm taste of cloves and pepper that did not overpower the fruit of moments before.
The Riesling is their 'Moutere' bottling, meaning the grapes come solely from vines in the Moutere Hills in Nelson, known for their quality. The vineyard itself was named Winery of the Year 2012 by Raymond Chan Reviews recently and judging by the Riesling, it was deserved. The nose gives off a cool florality that is matched on the palate by an almost wet vegetal nature that I have come to associate with many Kiwi Rieslings. The residual sugar is beautifully matched with a cleansing acidity and hint of petillance that reminds me of much pricier Mosel wines. A strong tropicality with the slightest touch of greenery binds it all together into a long-lasting and impressive mouthful.
Looking into New Zealand's wines over the last 6 months or so has opened my eyes to a wide variety of grapes and styles, and these two particular wines reinforced that, without question. There are many more surprises to come, I'm sure, with a rising production of Gewuertztraminer and Pinot Gris, and continuing emphasis on high-quality Chardonnay in Gisborne, as well as elsewhere. In short there are fantastic wines to be found. If any readers are from the Oxfordshire area, these particular wines were purchased from Wine Bear, a fantastic new shop in Chipping Norton, each for around £13-17.
