What To Do With Viogner

Viogner is a grape that I had not really paid much attention to until about 2 months ago when it appeared as a subject at a blind tasting and it was all we drank that day. It is certainly one that I pay heed to now: the blend of dried fruit and spices and the intensity it delivers is something to marvel at. Generally one thinks of the Rhone Valley in France when Viogner is mentioned and that is where I'll start. There it can be made as a single varietal wine, as in Condieu where it can command premium prices, or as part of a blend - sometimes in red wines for freshness and aroma, sometimes in whites.

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On the whole these regions lend themselves to very impressive wines that are extremely food-friendly, if a little expensive. As the area is very hot and Viognier ripens relatively quickly, there is a fine balance to attain when harvesting to ensure the right amount of sugar and development. They are generally quite light on the nose, with hints of sweet white fruit, herbs and white pepper. The palate is long, slightly sticky, with notes of peach, licourice and heavy peppery spices, as well as an intense minerality gained from the soil that is a marker of its quality. These, coupled together with a herb and spice-crusted rack of lamb dish, or even a moderately spiced curry, would be a match to remember. 

To the south of the Rhone Valley is the Languedoc region. This area of France has a slightly different strain of the Viognier grape which is more prominent across the New World, yet does quite well in the hot, arid landscape to the south. Generally the New World strain of Viognier gives notes of apricot and honeysuckle. This with the lack of minerality distinguishes the two. A perfect example of a Languedoc Viognier is Baron Phlipe de Rothschild's which is priced at around 8-10 pounds per bottle. A rich mellow nose leads into a high alcohol yet complex palate with honeysuckle, apricot, peach and a spicey finish. All in all, a wine of impressive structure for the price.

Moving further away from Viognier's homeland as it were, Australia has been planting a vast amount, especially in the Eden Valley. As one would expect, the style is much more aggressive, full-on and powerful. A great example and a wine very much worth trying, with or without food, is Yalumba's Eden Valley Viognier, for around 15 pounds. It smells strongly of toasted sesame seeds and the alcohol which makes up 14.5% (rare in a white wine of any varietal) is well integrated. The palate is deeply nutty and layered with stone fruits such as apricots, dried mangoes and touches of citrus peel. With a rounding spicy finish to bind the whole thing together, it would be perfect with spicy lamb, anything seasoned well with rosemary, or to be a bit different, perhaps  a sweet seafood meat, such as crab. 

In short Viognier is an interesting grape that is now yielding much more than the expensive classics of the Rhone Valley. It is a legitimate way to explore pairing spicier foods with wines and most of the time, it works. The structure, spice, and fruit has traveled well around the New World, especially in Australia: it is definitely a grape to explore. 

California: A Wine-lover's Paradise

This is an article I wrote for OwlEyes Magazine, a student-run online culture magazine at the University of St Andrews where I study: www.owleyesmagazine.com

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California. Aside from conjuring up images of surfers, boardwalks, Hollywood signs and more, the state also brings up pictures of fertile land: oranges, peaches and most importantly grapes grow extremely well. Californian wine has been steadily developing itself to a near-Old World status in terms of perception and actual quality of wine ever since the great revival of the 1960s. Big names such as Robert Mondavi, Christian Moueix, Ridge and Stag's Leap have come to be known to produce some of the world's premier bottles, while the regions are household names: Napa and Sonoma Valleys, the Russian River Valley and Santa Barbara County to name but a few.

Californian wine brings more to a dinner or an evening than any other wine I have ever come across. In general the style has been starting to become more and more like the Old World quality due to the aging of the vines (the first being planted back in the 18^th Century by Spanish Missionaries), but the distinguishing characteristics still remain. California produces intensely fruity, strong wines which always excite. With a climate that is warmer than that of France, in general, but with the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean so close to the vines, a unique blend of intense ripeness and New World exuberance with old vines can be produced.

Anyone looking to impress someone who is interested in wine should always, in my opinion, go Californian. It is possible to find spectacular wines for any budget, each as impressive as the next. Here are a few pointers, and my most memorable Californian bottles:

• Wild Boy Chardonnay, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Barbara County –

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This is a wine I have had on numerous occasions as an alternative to spending money on something of the same grape from Burgundy. The wine-maker Jim Clendenen (who gives his name to the title...) is very fond of the Old World style and it shows in this base cuvee. The winery is based in and around Santa Barbara County which is towards the south of the state. It is thus a very warm climate and it shows. The alcohol content is relatively high at 13.5%, but this doesn't matter as the intensity of the fruit (lychee mostly) balances this very well, as does the thick vanilla from the oak aging. It is fresh without food, but comes alive with a bird of some sort: I most recently enjoyed one with roast pheasant and the flavours burst out with impressive intensity. 10-15ppb.

• Pinot Noir, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Maria Valley –

One of my favourite wines, this is the wine that started my fascination with California, and with Pinot Noir. For the price it is exceptionally well-balanced, structured and has more depth than one would find in many Burgundies of the same price bracket. Made by the same vintner as the Wild Boy it shows similar characteristics, in that the alcohol is blended perfectly into the fruit. On the nose there is the dust farmyard one would expect from Pinot Noir, while the palate is a delicious blend of blackcurrant and blackberry: not acidic, and not jammy. It produces a lengthy and healthy finish that would be perfectly suited to duck dishes. 15-20ppb.

• Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs –

An absolute classic, and a purely Californian grape. Normally Zinfandel can be overdone, too alcoholic, too spicy, too jammy, too intense. This is not the case here: Ridge's vineyard at Lytton Springs in Northern California a few hours north of San Francisco have cultivated a spectacular wine in this, and one that can be aged also. I have tried both the 2007 and the 2008, and they are truly remarkable. Deep dark fruits and peppery spices dominate the nose, while sweeter blueberry notes penetrate the palate. Gripping and intense tannins lengthen the finish and mean that it is more than a worthy substitute for a wine of Bordeaux stature and must be paired with beef. 25-35ppb.