A Spectacular Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2008

This is a wine that I have wanted to try for quite some time, since noticing it on the list at the restaurant where I work. Last night I got the chance, and it was worth every penny. I struggle to remember a white wine that has stunned me in such a way.

As someone who has ‘grown up’, as it were, on classic French Bordeaux and Burgundy, I have always been slightly sceptical of New World wines, and often discounted them (as I have mentioned in my previous post about Chile). However, this means that when I do come across something truly spectacular from the New World I feel I am more receptive of it: this is the case with the Paul Hobbs.

The 2008 Chardonnay saw a slightly troubled start to the growing season, which then exploded into a brilliant warm and stable summer, typical of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. The weather produced a well-defined and ripe crop which then responded very well to a year’s aging in 48% brand new French oak barrels. It was then bottled in January 2010 ready to be shipped out to be sold.

As soon as the bottle was opened the immediate area was filled with a luscious fruity sweetness and I knew it was going to be a bottle to remember. Once poured, it had a deep straw hue to it, with a sophisticated viscosity that suggested a high quality. On the nose, it presented with a hint of orange and pear, backed up generously by a thick oaky vanilla. On the palate the first impression it gave was a deeply developed honey with touches of butter. In terms of fruit, intense mango, pineapple and ripe apples are all evident, blended expertly with the richness from the oak and malolactic fermentation. The high alcohol content (14.5%) is not at all sharp and the wine does not appear ‘boozey’ in any way, which shows excellent craftsmanship. A lengthy finish with ever-developing textures of the oak makes for a truly enjoyable sip.

All in all, it is made with a strikingly Old World-style complexity: the balance and structure is never uneven, while all the flavours are impressively well-integrated. Available for around £30-40 it is not the cheapest wine around, but for a special occasion or the experience it is more than worth it. A true marvel from one of the most renowned New World regions.

Pictures from Paul Hobbs Winery website

Chile: One To Explore

For this post I am going to focus on some wines of Chile that I have recently tried and been very surprised with. Most of you I imagine, just as I did until last week, have a preconception that Chile produces cheap, not so high end, mass produced wine. To some extent this can be true. However, just the same can be said for California, South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and others, if one looks in the wrong place. I took some convincing it must be said, growing to enjoy wine by being taught on Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Mosel and Ridge Vineyards. 

Many winemakers in the New World are striving harder and harder to produce wine that emulates the Old World style of balance, depth, structure and perfect harmony of flavours and Casa Lapostolle are no different. My work recently at the Seafood Restaurant St Andrews has allowed me to taste a great variety of New World gems such as their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, which had me guessing blind that it was of high end Californian origin. The nose is met with an intense ripe blackcurrant, while the palate develops into an amalgam of cedar wood, loose tea and cherries. The smooth yet feisty tannins round off what has been one of the most shocking wines I've tasted recently. It is from the Colchagua Valley to the south of the Chilean capital of Santiago. The valley is known for its dry heat, yet in this particular wine although it is clearly from the new world, the heat is blended expertly to produce something in no way overpowering. It is attractively priced at between 8 and 12 pounds per bottle and would be excellent paired with any lamb dish.

Picture: Justerini and Brooks

Another Chilean wine that has caught my eye recently is the Palomar Estate Merlot, also from the Colchagua Valley. What impresses me about this wine is that although it is a single variety Merlot (which is quite uncommon due to the grape's richness) it is not overly thick and oppressive. It is from the eastern part of the valley which is slightly cooler, and this helps soften the grape. It still possesses all the characteristics that one would desire from a big New World single varietal. The nose presents with a chocolatey richness and deep ripe blackberries, while the palate gives a viscous woody sweetness with a lengthy gripping finish. At 6.50-9 pounds per bottle it is not one to pass up, and would be delicious with liver and onions, or a classic sunday roast: the bold flavours in both would complement each other and neither would be washed out. 

There are many more Chilean gems that I could describe to you, but the best way to understand is to try for yourselves! Do test out some if you get the chance, there is way more to Chile than the supermarket aisles suggest.