The final competition of the Tasting Team calendar is the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, the first round of which is hosted by the Commanderie du Bontemps in London. Other first round matches are held in France, USA and China with the top two teams progressing to the final in Bordeaux. Though St Andrews did not make the final, I was enlightened by the experience and, of course, the practise. In the weeks running up to the competition we tasted all we could from the Left Bank, from
Médoc and Haut-Médoc to St-
Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux, down to Pessac-Léognan and Graves. There was even a set of questions on Sauternes and Barsac. While the sweet wine was delicious, it was the reds that fascinated me.
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| Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac |
We were training to be able to pick out the regions and communes, as well as the vintages of wines we were given. Initially I felt very daunted by the prospect. Before this, I had been rather taken with New World opulence, such as can be found in Californian Cabernets, and had not been tasting many French wines. I went in expecting to have to learn specific flavour, body and character differences for each village, yet when we began trying to break down each wine we tried, I realised how subjective and general much of this was. There was an astonishing level of depth and flavour for everything we tried - so much so that after a while, my tasting notes began to look more and more like a rather strange shopping list. On one particular comparison between a St-Julien and a Pauillac everything from mushrooms, tobacco, cassis, new leather shoes, cocoa and coffee to bell peppers, cumin, rubber, mint and strawberries appeared at some point.
Taking a step back, I looked to the basic composition of each commune and my initial first impressions of each wine. Rather than trying to come up with a formula, I decided to go on particular characteristics that seemed to jump out when I tasted each one for the first time. The first thing to know when thinking about the Left Bank is the soil. In the north (Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac) there is much more clay in the soils, which, generally speaking, allows for a thicker, more fertile and fruity wine. Further south, there is more gravel (St-Julien, Margaux and Graves). This allows more drainage and the wines typically show more delicacy and perfume, as well as a more stoney minerality.
While Bordeaux now is typically much more expensive than many other regions, what I learned from the few weeks of Bordeaux tasting is that there is still something to be said for France's claim to make the best red wine. I will steer clear of agreeing or disagreeing with that statement just yet, though I will say that by working my way down the Left Bank I have a great appreciation for depth and character of the wines. The complexity and harmony of the flavours is unparalleled. When tasting, though it sounds cheesy, try to the feel the differences in the wines: a much better way of appreciating and beginning to understand the differences between the communes.
Haut-Médoc: Power and thickness are key. One to try is
Chateau Cissac.
St-Estèphe: Look for darker notes (tar, coffee, chocolate) and savoury touches. One to try is Chateau Meyney.
St-Julien: Lean and woody, look for red fruits. One to try is Clos du Marquis (second label of Léoville-Las Cases).
Margaux: Delicate and perfumed, subtle and herbaceous. One to try is
Chateau Martinens.
Graves: Stoney, yet delicate. Supple fruit. One to try is Chateau Peyrat.
