Time to Experiment with Food

A block tucked away in Eden Valley

I’ve posted recently about top notch Shiraz, and I’ve also talked about variety. The right balance of tradition and innovation is key to the success of a region and is something that my four months in Barossa have taught me they have here. Shiraz and Riesling, King and Queen. There is a history of fortified wines in the style of sherry and port. There is a strong array of other Rhône varietals – Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre; Marsanne/Roussane/Viognier. That ever so unique and astonishing red blend formerly labeled as ‘claret’ – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz. Not to mention smatterings of Italian varieties – Primitivo, Barbera, Vermentino. A recent trip to Victoria’s Yarra Valley and earlier trips to other wine regions in South Australia have reaffirmed my appreciation for the community, the history and the depth of the Barossa’s wine culture. There are over 70 cellar doors here and, not surprisingly, ever more wines to try. I have not even made it to half of those but am always trying to get to more.

Half of the pleasure of a good bottle of wine comes from what you drink it with. For that reason I am going to take you through the most extravagant meal I can think of, with wine options throughout.

Canapés

Bubbles are the order here. Australia makes some outstanding sparkling wines – Tasmania especially. In the Barossa though, Sparkling Shiraz is the order of the day. I can’t believe this isn’t a more popular wine overseas! It’s fresh and full, rich and light, all at the same time, dancing with spice and bright fruit. Most are very high quality traditional champagne method sparkling wines – not the cheapest, but certainly worth it for the depth of flavour only years of lees ageing can produce! Teusner ‘MC’ 2009 Sparkling Shiraz - $60, Rockford NV Sparkling Shiraz - $120. Pair with cured or smoked meat slices, mini lamb samosas or just the local Christmas Day tradition of bacon and eggs.

Salad

It couldn’t be anything but Riesling. Lime-y, racy and tight when young or marmalade toast and almond cake when old. For a salad with more sweetness (fig and gorgonzola or balsamic and pomegranate for example) go for young and off-dry or old and rich. Langmeil ‘LiveWire’ Riesling - $20, Sons of Eden 2007 ‘Freya’ Riesling - $30. Also great with age are St Hallett.

Barossa Valley Cabernet

Fish

This is one that massively depends on the dish. For a meaty fish, like Monkfish or even Halibut, with a rich cassoulet or chorizo side, go with a Grenache or Mourvèdre (known here mostly as Mataro) based blend. The more Mataro, generally the earthier it will be. Spinifex ‘Esprit’ GMSCC - $35 (finished with dashes of Carignan and Cinsault, light and fruity with underlying spice). For lighter fish dishes, from whiting to salmon, think MRV – Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier, which has hints of stone fruit, a full bodied palate and a dry finish. Yalumba Roussanne - $20, John Duval ‘Plexus’ MRV - $30.

Main

It’s got to be something off the barbeque. Think slow cooked ribs thrown on to crisp up, or a classic slab of steak. I’d go with something traditional to the Barossa, and very unique to Australia: the Cabernet-Shiraz blend. I don’t know why this isn’t more popular over the world, as the two grapes complement each other so well! A classic is Yalumba 2010 Signature or 2011 FDR1A - $45/38, Rockford 2011 ‘Rod and Spur’ - $33. I prefer more Cab than Shiraz, so the more herbal and minty notes from the Cabernet bind with the rich, fruity Shiraz.

Dessert

Endless options. I am a huge fan of botrytis Riesling. It is sweet, but with a cleansing whack of acidity to balance it all out. Heggies Botrytis Riesling - $28 is killer with a good old pavlova.

Cheese

Again, this is definitely an area to experiment! The local Barossa Cheese Co has a good range of different styles, perfect to play around with different wine styles. For sticky fans, try an aged sweet Semillon for nutty, marmalade characters, like Two Hands 2010 ‘For Love or Money’ Semillon - $35 or Hobbs 2006 Dessert Semillon - $39.

I have tried here to showcase the endless options available for a wine and food lover. Most of the best pairings are accidents or experiments – so give it a go! Pop into your local bottle shop and ask about what might go with a new dish, or go to the Barossa section and try something you’ve never had. I’m continually impressed and I’m sure you can be to…

All prices correct in the Barossa at time of posting.

Barossa, 4 Months In

Since September I have been living in the Barossa Valley, South Australia - check out my blog from the internship I was on with the Yalumba Wine Company here, at Mentor Me - Hugh. After the program finished, I decided to stay in South Australia and have been working in Cellar Doors and will be moving into the cellar itself at Yalumba for the 2015 harvest in a month. 

Artisans of Barossa, photo: H McCullough

In the three months since my internship ended, I've been able to meet a lot of honest, hard-working people who make some very tasty wines. I've also met a lot of tourists. I am in a strange position - a tourist myself, selling wine to other tourists. In mid-October I started working in the Yalumba Wine Room and at the same time, the Artisans of Barossa Tasting Room. Artisans of Barossa is a shared tasting room for 7 small Barossa producers, each of whom has a totally different approach and philosophy about winemaking. Over the next couple of weeks I hope to share with you some of my experiences with Yalumba and the Artisans, as well as some delicious drops I've been lucky enough to try...

I haven't had many days off, but the last few that I have had, I have made my way around the valleys a bit more; tasting more and learning more. With the extra time here I have without doubt developed more of an appreciation for the regions and areas around the Barossa - whether they be legally limited or not. The history of the place never ceases to fascinate me. I recently drank a Shiraz made from vines planted in 1880 (Barossa is full of these old vines, having escaped the ravaging vine-killing pest phylloxera, which has devastated vineyards all over the world) by a family that still tends to the vines, 6 generations later, selling their prized fruit to a winemaker 2km up the road to make a stunning drop of complex, rare and age-worthy wine. I have two bottles of it and will find it very very hard to keep my hands off while it slowly develops in my cupboard. The stories behind the wine are what make drinking a bottle worth it, for me. Getting the opportunity to meet those who strive to make the best possible wine is consuming - I hope that comes across when I pour tastings for visitors. 

Believe it or not, Shiraz was not my thing until I moved here. That has definitely changed. Anyone I can convert to Shiraz will never look back! There is no better feeling than having a visitor come in and say 'I don't know your wines and Shiraz isn't really my favourite - what can you show me?', then leave with two or three different styles they will appreciate and drink for years to come. So, with that in mind, here are three stunning - and completely different - Shiraz styles that have blown me away in the last few months:

- Sons of Eden Remus Shiraz 2012, Eden Valley

     This is a beast of a wine. Named for the mythical brother of the founder of Rome, Romulus, Remus is a powerful expression of what Eden wines can do. While their Romulus Shiraz is Barossa Valley fruit in American oak (ripe fruit on sweeter oak), Remus is Eden fruit on French oak (spice on spice). The cooler climate of the higher elevation Eden Valley tends to give Shiraz with a more peppery character, as well as a slightly lighter and more elegant palate. 20 months on 65% new French oak gives plenty of power, though and this will be one to come back to for at least 15 years. 

- Yalumba Paradox Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley

     What an elegant wine. Those who think Barossa Shiraz is boozy and ripe must taste this to begin changing their minds! Subtle savoury characters come through this wine and maturation in large format barrels give it a mellow complexity rather than an over-oaked flavour. Wonderful with spiced lamb - all I can think about when tasting it! 

- John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2009, Eden and Barossa Valley

     A stunning wine from a winemaker who certainly knows his way around Shiraz (and Syrah!). Eligo means to hand select and this is exactly what has happened - fruit is marked from the vine as being of exceptional quality and only gets exceptional treatment. Every time you return to it, it shows off another dimension: bitter chocolate, blueberries, blackcurrants with a textured and lengthy finish of sublime, restrained power. Delicious.

I implore you all to go taste the fruits of the Barossa! More to come...

Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses 'Clos de la Croix de Pierre' 1er Cru 2000

Recently I have been drinking a lot of American and Australian wines. I have always been a sucker for the rich, oaked Pinots from Oregon and California, and with an upcoming move to the Barossa Valley, have been trying more and more Shiraz. Except for last night. Every once in a while it's good to shock your palate and go back to a completely different style. I have recently been working on figuring out drinking windows for the Fine Wine Room at Luvians Bottle Shop and the last week or so has seen me going through our Burgundy section. What better way to see if the critics are right about 1er Crus' general potential to age for 10-15 years than to try a bottle? 

Louis Jadot is one of the largest and most well-known of Burgundy negociants, with plots and grape growers all over Burgundy, from the Nuits, to Beaune, Macon and Beaujolais. It makes wine at all price points and really showcases the best of the region. Pernand Vergelesses is a village in the north of the Cote de Beaune and makes white and red wine on its cool east-facing slopes that protect the vines from the pesky weather. In the area, Pommard, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune itself often make Pernand-Vergelesses wines relatively good value for money (as was the case for this wine, sitting at £25). 

Appearance: Just what I had hoped for in a 14 year old Burgundy: Light, dusty garnet colour - slightly rusty with orange tinted edges.

Nose: When first opened it gave off strong earthy aromas that would give it away as a Burgundy instantly in a blind tasting: notes of tobacco, farmyard and wet fur slowly gave way to macerated strawberries and tart cherries. As it opened up over the next hour the fruit came forward. Hints of liquorice and cedar wood developed, as well as a beautifully inviting rose petal note.

Palate: The palate was light and dry, with high acidity and low tannins, as you would expect from a Pinot. Initially it was quite funky (mushrooms, truffles, dusty farmy notes), but with time in the glass it blossomed. The purity of fruit was amazing, strawberries and cherries bursting on the mid-palate. Spicy notes popped up all over the place - cinnamon, clove, anise - complementing and backing the subtle vanilla hints from the oak ageing. This all blends seamlessly to a lengthy and powerful finish.

Conclusions: The wine has certainly aged well. The funky farmyard notes would have been too overpowering a few years ago, but have mellowed into a perfect drinking window just now. Amazing depth and complexity showed as it opened up in the glass: this wine proves Burgundy 1er Cru should be drunk either very young or after 14-16 years! Cracking Pinot and unmistakably Burgundy

  

Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay 2006

Here in the UK, Ridge Vineyards holds a special place in every wine-lover's mind. Though we only get a selection of their impressive range, what does make it across the pond always surprises and excites drinkers. Some expect the boldest, oak-heavy, Cabs, Zins and Chardonnays that California has become known for. Others who know Ridge's expert blending skills and supremely balanced, restrained style are almost always still pleasantly surprised with the composure and complexity in the wines. This Chardonnay is no different. I have previously reviewed their Geyserville Zinfandel-heavy blend to show how well Zin can age and have been eyeing this 06 Chardonnay for a while, wondering how well it has stood the test of time...

Appearance: A viscous intense gold colour that still appears lively and inviting.

Nose: On the nose the wine instantly shows its development - rich, nutty aromas move on to buttered toast along with bruised apples and pears and a hint of cinnamon. There are also hints of vanilla, honeysuckle and orange rind.

Palate: Once in your mouth this wine comes alive. It is full-bodied and all-encompassing. Rich and creamy, it tastes of apple pie, with the same notes of cinnamon and other Christmas spices, as well as giving lovely nutty notes intertwined with tropical fruits too. The complexity is amazing and I could keep listing flavours that dance around - the finish caps it all off and will stay with you for what seems like an age.

Conclusion: After 8 years this Chardonnay is really impressive. Though I'm not sure it could keep going for much longer, this amount of development is perfect for it. Ridge's top vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains has produced a Chardonnay that is balanced, restrained, yet intense, powerful and exciting. The high alcohol (14.5%) is completely integrated, as is the richness from oak fermentation and ageing. Its price tag (c.£60), I would argue, is justified, as it more than competes with White Burgundy at the same level and would blow a few out of the water. The French drink old Meursault with cheese after dinner: I would drink this. Top notch stuff.

Notes from Portugal

I have recently spent a week in southern Portugal and much to my delight, was spoilt for choice when it came to wine. Like most European countries that aren't Great Britain, Portugal's wine culture is one that regards a bottle of wine not as an alcoholic drink to control, but an accompaniment to food; a refreshing drink on a hot summer's day. This is shown of course by restaurants serving nips of Port or Moscatel de Setubal when the bill is asked for. Mostly, however, it is shown in the price. Bottles in the supermarket start at around €1.49 and in restaurants at around €10. 'Wait!' I hear you cry - 'I can buy Tesco wines for £3 and Wetherspoons has bottle offers for £12!' The difference, however, is substantial. The huge amount of tax on wines imported to the UK means that the cheapest bargain bottles will have literally pennies spent on production, forcing supermarkets and pub chains to buy wine made in vast bulk quantities with little regard for quality. This is not the case in Portugal. What makes Portugal even more interesting is that most people - even wine geeks - have little to no idea about the intricacies of Portuguese grape varieties. 

There is a massive variety of styles made in the relatively small 600x200km country. From the lightest, freshest white Vinho Verde to the richest, booziest red Port there is a style for everyone. That is what made this trip exciting. Anyone who gets the chance to visit should try this: go to a local supermarket (bear with me here) and pick a random four bottles. When they are done, go do it again. It will never get old. The occasional bottle I recognised as being sold in the UK, but that only made me savour the experience more (Lavradores de Feitora Branco, a white wine from the Douro was €2.49, sold in the UK for £9.99). 

For those who like wine and are interested in more than being amazed at price differences in the EU, here is the fine print. Portugal's wine industry is made up of a number of cooperatives, and more recently, of a growing proportion of single estates (quintas) that continue to use local varietals with difficult-to-pronounce names. Inroads made by international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay are minimal and this serves to preserve what is one of the oldest geographically protected wine systems in Europe, which dates back to the mid-eighteenth century. Rapid modernisation since Portugal's entrance into the EU in 1986 thankfully hasn't changed the variety that makes Portugal's wine industry so interesting and enjoyable to explore. 

Here are a few styles that caught my attention while I was there:

Vinho Verde: It is always put on a different section in wine lists (Green Wine, White Wine, Red Wine) and with good reason. These wines from the north-west are made predominantly from Alvarinho and are often ever so slightly sparkling. They are also around 12%abv and are perfect summer wines. Light, refreshing and citrus-y, and in my opinion, far more exciting than generic Sauvignon Blanc.

Douro: Reds make up 80% of production here and are dry, powerful wines. Intense tannins and ripe fruit is often backed up with well-balanced acidity. If you splash out on a €10 bottle, expect complex spices and oak influences. Case-in-point: Quinta do Vale Meao's Meandro, €10.49 in a supermarket and an outstanding blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Rouriz and Sousao. 

Bairrada: Aromatic, yet crisp, whites were the most interesting from this region to the south-west of the Douro, with the reds too sharp in youth. Blends of Fernao Pires, Arinto and Cercial were great alternatives to Viognier or even Gewuertztraminer, with lovely weight and texture, ripe tropical fruits and good structure throughout.

All in all, Portugal was an amazing place to explore wine. The array of grapes and styles is endless, from the north to the south. There is far more in Portugal than just Port, and even though the taxes in the UK are vast, they are for all wines and most from Portugal still outstrip other countries in terms of value for money. Needless to say, it is a whole other story if you get the chance to visit yourself! Next time you are looking to try something new, ask your local bottle shop about their selection of Portuguese wines - you never know what gem you'll find.

A Year of Study, What Now?

Well, it has been nearly a year since my last post, which was about a visit to Montoliva Winery in the Sierra Foothills of Northern California. Much has happened since then - for both wine and non-wine things. A year as Captain of the Blind Tasting Team has opened my eyes to new and exciting styles and varieties as well as led to tasting success at the Sciences Po International Tasting VI at Champagne Bollinger (3rd place for St Andrews) and putting up a valiant effort at the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup qualifier in London and our Pol Roger Varsity match against Edinburgh. My final year at university will hopefully yield a degree (results coming shortly); essay work certainly led to off-topic diversions into the history of wine and grape migration to California, South America and Australia... In between tasting and university has been the WSET Level 3 course, a British-based Wine and Spirit qualification that has laid good foundations for further wine study. 

But what next?

In September I shall be traveling half way around the world to Adelaide, South Australia. I have been lucky enough to secure an internship with Yalumba, a family-owned winery in the Barossa Valley, and will be working there for a month, trying to learn as much as possible about the production process. (Yalumba, interestingly, has been a star winery in Oz for me for a while. Their Viognier is amazing and was a staple on the restaurant wine list. Check out What To Do With Viognier.) In the meantime, I am splitting my week between Luvians Bottle Shop (sales) and The Seafood Restaurant (sommelier) in beautiful St Andrews, Scotland. I'll be starting to post more regularly - musings about the industry, pairings, memorable wines - so pop back for nuggets of knowledge about all things viniferous: though I can't guarantee you'll agree with it all. If you're hip enough to have a Twitter, follow me @ItsInTheSwirl for 140-character opinions, when the mood strikes. 

Above all enjoy the sun and crack a bottle of something tasty!

A Touch Of Italy In The Sierra Foothills

The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva. 

The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.

But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do. 

Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one. 

A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future. 

Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.

Other wines tried: 

Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.

Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!

Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.

Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.

Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.