Pinot Gris has always been to me somewhat of a mystery grape. Mystery in that I always found it odd that it could be such a powerful, full-bodied, expressive wine with astonishing depth of character and flavour when grown in Alsace, yet (often) such a light, crisp, sometimes bland wine elsewhere, such as in Italy where it is known as Pinot Grigio (the same can be said of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Bianco in Italy). What has brought this to my mind again recently is a recent Blind Tasting competition I was taking part in where I was presented with what appeared to be a lovely, oaked, Chardonnay. Presenting with a delicate nose of pear, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the wine that I believed to be an extremely delicious Bourgogne Blanc then moved to a sublime, full palate of honey and ripe apples. When it was revealed as a Pinot Gris from New Zealand, needless to say, I was a little stumped. 
After some research and opening a few bottles, I now feel I have more of a grasp of the grape - although, as with every puzzling varietal, I am sure I have only scratched the surface. The Italian version, Pinot Grigio, is grown in the North of the country, particularly in Fruili, Alto Adige and Lombardy. Often given a bad name by supermarket bulk orders, it has the potential to be quite a watery wine with little more than high acidity and a nose of boiled sweets; however, given the opportunity, it can be a lovely wine full of crisp green apples, almonds and a zing of mint. Similarly, Australian Pinot Gris focuses on the lighter crisp style, with Willunga being one particularly worth trying (often 
So far, however, I am still most struck by what Alsatian winemakers have produced, with their incredibly low yields (often down to just 4,000 litres per hectare) giving outstanding quality. With that traditional Alsatian nose that promises a voluptuous and exciting wine, every one I have tasted has not disappointed. A particular favourite has been Domaine Ostertag's Muenchberg A360P Grand Cru, which has an impressive ability to age: the '01 and '02 were both excellent, with my personal choice being the latter. It showed an amazing array of marmalade, citrus pith, rounding acidity and spice: I have yet to taste another Alsatian wine with its depth and complexity.
No doubt, Alsace's soil plays a vital role in its superiority, with the Muenchberg vineyards in particular benefiting from volcanic sediments, lime- and sandstone which impart a depth and mineral quality not found elsewhere.
Next on my list to explore will be Oregon and Canada, both of which boast Pinot Gris with high ratings that are of similar style to Alsace. The best thing about having a mystery grape to explore is that there is always more of the mystery to dive into. Stay tuned.
