A Touch Of Italy In The Sierra Foothills

The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva. 

The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.

But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do. 

Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one. 

A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future. 

Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.

Other wines tried: 

Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.

Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!

Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.

Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.

Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.

Montoliva Sierra Bella, Chicago Park, Sierra Foothills, California, 2009

The first winery that I visited was this one, around the corner from where I was staying. The small production I hoped would yield high quality and that's exactly what I found! The vineyard grows only Italian varietals in the Italian style and this is their red table wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Barbera and Teroldego.

Appearance: The wine looks dark and sleek, with an inky purple to it. It is light bodied and dances around the glass.

Nose: Very high acidity is the first thing you notice. This gives way to cinnamon, clove, anise and redcurrants.

Palate: The high acidity carries itself through a mid-palate of dark fruits and tar to the strict tannins. These, however, do not overpower the flavour, but enhance it into a complex, full-bodied finish with notes of leather and licorice. 

Rating: This wine (really the whole winery) surprised me. It completely bucks the trend in Californian wines towards sweet, thick fruity reds: There is freshness and acidity and there are stringent, Old World-style, savoury flavours throughout. Those looking for bold, oaky American wines will be disappointed, but those looking for an interesting, well-priced ($15), wonderfully food-friendly wine that shows the potential of a region on the rise will be more than satisfied. 8.5/10

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, CA, USA, 2011

This was the first wine on my 2013 California trip that I tried. Their Zin has made it across the pond (and is quite delicious at around 10 pounds per bottle), but this was the first I had seen of any other varietal. I went in expecting a big, juicy American brute of a Cab... and that's what I found!

Appearance: A strong garnet centre moved to a more purple edge with a youthful sheen to it. 

Nose: The nose starts with a slight freshness to it, with a hint of acidity, but its underlying power is almost tangible. Notes of coffee, stewed plum and aggressive cedar.

Palate: Though there is a touch of acidity, it gives way to a fruity crispness of currants and cranberries, which is then quickly washed away by thick, riper, sweeter fruits. There is a slight herbaceous zing to the back of the palate and a slight spice, but the finish is tainted by an alcoholic bite.

Rating: At 10 US dollars per bottle in California there is not much to complain about if it is the style you are looking for: it is a beefy, aggressive, thick American Cab with plenty of wood and high in alcohol (the label says 14.5). Definitely one to have with food. 7/10.

Gusbourne Estate Sparkling Rose, Kent, England, 2009

English sparkling wine is clearly going from strength to strength and although the prices are rising a little from what they were a few years ago, the increase in quality is far higher. The estate in Kent enjoys south-facing slopes for the vines, very little wind and crisp, cold winters - perfect for wines made in the traditional methode champenoise.

Appearance: Pure, fine bubbles rise invitingly, with a medium salmon pink tint to the wine. 

Nose: There is plenty of acidity, as well as a delicate array of fine brown sugar, ripe strawberries and bramble leaf.

Palate: The acidity certainly carries through to the palate, yet is balanced by a stout body and rich, structured blend of raspberry and fresh cherry. A crisp, dry finish leaves an elegant taste in the mouth, with hints of currants and rhubarb.

Rating: I first tried Gusbourne's Brut two years ago when they were on the 2006 and loved it immediately. The Rose is a joy: high quality winemaking and clearly excellent grapes make for a delicious drop. Being a minimum of around £10 less than any of the big name Rose Champagnes only adds to its appeal. 9/10

Both were tasted at the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford - anyone nearby should definitely make the trip for a bottle. It has also now been picked up as a house wine at Selfridges.

The Left Bank: Feeling Wine

The final competition of the Tasting Team calendar is the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, the first round of which is hosted by the Commanderie du Bontemps in London. Other first round matches are held in France, USA and China with the top two teams progressing to the final in Bordeaux. Though St Andrews did not make the final, I was enlightened by the experience and, of course, the practise. In the weeks running up to the competition we tasted all we could from the Left Bank, from Médoc and Haut-Médoc to St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux, down to Pessac-Léognan and Graves. There was even a set of questions on Sauternes and Barsac. While the sweet wine was delicious, it was the reds that fascinated me. 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

We were training to be able to pick out the regions and communes, as well as the vintages of wines we were given. Initially I felt very daunted by the prospect. Before this, I had been rather taken with New World opulence, such as can be found in Californian Cabernets, and had not been tasting many French wines. I went in expecting to have to learn specific flavour, body and character differences for each village, yet when we began trying to break down each wine we tried, I realised how subjective and general much of this was. There was an astonishing level of depth and flavour for everything we tried - so much so that after a while, my tasting notes began to look more and more like a rather strange shopping list. On one particular comparison between a St-Julien and a Pauillac everything from mushrooms, tobacco, cassis, new leather shoes, cocoa and coffee to bell peppers, cumin, rubber, mint and strawberries appeared at some point.

Taking a step back, I looked to the basic composition of each commune and my initial first impressions of each wine. Rather than trying to come up with a formula, I decided to go on particular characteristics that seemed to jump out when I tasted each one for the first time. The first thing to know when thinking about the Left Bank is the soil. In the north (Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac) there is much more clay in the soils, which, generally speaking, allows for a thicker, more fertile and fruity wine. Further south, there is more gravel (St-Julien, Margaux and Graves). This allows more drainage and the wines typically show more delicacy and perfume, as well as a more stoney minerality. 

While Bordeaux now is typically much more expensive than many other regions, what I learned from the few weeks of Bordeaux tasting is that there is still something to be said for France's claim to make the best red wine. I will steer clear of agreeing or disagreeing with that statement just yet, though I will say that by working my way down the Left Bank I have a great appreciation for depth and character of the wines. The complexity and harmony of the flavours is unparalleled. When tasting, though it sounds cheesy, try to the feel the differences in the wines: a much better way of appreciating and beginning to understand the differences between the communes. 

Haut-Médoc: Power and thickness are key. One to try is Chateau Cissac.

St-Estèphe: Look for darker notes (tar, coffee, chocolate) and savoury touches. One to try is Chateau Meyney.

Pauillac: Velvety. One to try is Chateau Pontet-Canet.

St-Julien: Lean and woody, look for red fruits. One to try is Clos du Marquis (second label of Léoville-Las Cases).

Margaux: Delicate and perfumed, subtle and herbaceous. One to try is Chateau Martinens.

Graves: Stoney, yet delicate. Supple fruit. One to try is Chateau Peyrat.

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 2006

Though still quite youthful, this was a delicious bottle. A lovely wine from a classic Bordeaux vintage.

Appearance: It showed clarity through the centre, with pink tinges to the edges.

Nose: A very complex nose came through as being quite plummy, along with leather, pencil lead and pine.

Palate: Weighty ripe fruit comes through first, though seems a little subdued. More age is needed to develop these flavours. Coming through was a smokey minerality, with a dark cocoa finish, complemented by strict tannins.

Rating: A smooth and controlled wine, but one that is not quite ready - it will break out with more age to it. That being said, the depth is still very impressive and the acidity a refreshingly balanced accompaniment to the dark fruits. 8.5/10

Chateau Cissac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, 2008

A scrumptious Cru Bourgeois from a mixed vintage. 

Appearance: Deep garnet. A lovely thickness looks inviting.

Nose: There is a slight delicacy to the smell, but its power is unmistakeable. Hints of mint and cedar wood move to wet tobacco, blackcurrant and marzipan.

Palate: A sweet strawberry front-palate moves to a darker, softer mid-palate, with notes of plum and soft oaky spices (cumin, cloves). A touch of bell pepper freshens the finish which is lengthy, though the tannins are a little soft.

Rating: Delicious wine and a reasonable cost (c.£10-14). Its sweetness is not cloying and the palate very well-balanced. A firmer finish is my only wish, but a minor one. 7.5/10

Chateau Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, 2006

This was a real treat - a 2006 Cheval Blanc. I tasted this at Hedonism Wines in London as it was featured in their tasting bar in the basement and I couldn't resist. I am very slowly adding to my repertoire of the top Bordeaux Chateaux...

Appearance: Although the room was mood-lit to a low level, the wine was clearly bright and full-bodied, with touches of pink on the edges and a deep, inviting purpler colour.

Nose: The smells were rather subdued, yet clearly very powerful. There were hints of rich, dark chocolate, cedar and spiced plums. Relatively high acidity hints that it could age for a while yet.

Palate: The palate showed and impressive depth and character to the wine, with a real structure to it. A savoury mid-palate led to a burst of cherry, with a quince jelly finish aided by powerful tannins. 

Rating: From a year that was hit-and-miss on the Right Bank, the Cheval shows an amazing strength and depth. The wine-maker clearly successfully dodged the rains and produced a fantastic wine that will get better for quite a few more years. What a privilege to try one! 9/10

Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, USA, 2010

Another wine on the list at the restaurant, I've wanted to try this Napa Sauvignon for a while. I luckily got the chance a couple of days ago and it was definitely an eye-opener. A cool year, the 2010 vintage made especially crisp, green wine: this one is no different. It is Cakebread's process that makes this wine so interesting. As well as Sauvignon Blanc, small amounts of Semillon and Sauvignon Musque are added, for a bit of weight and structure, as well as floral notes. Just over 10% of the grape juice was fermented in oak barrels, while nearly 90% of the wine produced was then aged in French oak for 5 months. 

Appearance: The wine is very pale, with a slight hint of green to the edges and a robust body to it.

Nose: The first few smells are very intense - gooseberry, lemon zest and grapefruit mostly. There are touches of blossom and soft spices in the background, while crisp acidity is clear.

Palate: The front of the palate is very cool and crisp, almost leafy. It then bursts into a richness of melon and gooseberry, with an almost creamy, heavier texture from the oak. This is all then carried through by the zingy citric acidity to a powerful finish.

Rating: There is a lot going on in this wine. It has classic Sauvignon flavours, with a common blending grape added (Semillon), but also packs a serious punch. The complexity and weighty texture gained from the oak juxtaposed with the ripe acidic wine calls out for it to be drunk with food, which is when it will come into its own. By itself, it is a marvel to pick apart. 8.5/10  

The Crusher Viognier, Wilson Vineyard, Clarksburg, CA, USA, 2011

This amazing new wine on the Seafood Restaurant list has surprised all who work there. It is from the little-known Clarksburg AVA, situated just to the East of Napa Valley. The soils are flat and fertile with plenty of clay and silt deposits, with fog and cooling breezes from San Francisco Bay blowing inland from the West. The vineyard's Petit Syrah is a marvel also.

Appearance: Unlike most Viogniers, The Crusher does not appear to be too thick and oily in the glass. It has a soft straw colour, with a hint of green to it that suggests youth and freshness.

Nose: The nose is bright, clean and very vegetal. Unripe apricots develop into notes of white peach and honeysuckle, while fresh grass and herbs make for an altogether fragrant wine.

Palate: The palate is weightier than the nose might suggest, but is not overpowering. It begins with a ripe peach sweetness that is supplemented by a poached pear and tropical fruit mid-palate. The finish brings in a green chilli pepper spice and a slight oiliness with a balanced and rounding acidity. It isn't the lengthiest wine I've tried, but certainly is powerful.

Rating: This wine is beautiful in youth. I'm not sure how well it would fare with much age, as much of the appeal is the freshness and clear-cut flavours at each step. There is enough weight and richness to pair with strong foods from scallops to spiced pork, while the acidity and lightness will keep you coming back for more. A fantastic, great value for money, American Viognier. 8.7/10

Chateau Martinens, Margaux, Bordeaux, 2007

As the University Wine Tasting Team prepare for the last competition of the year in a few weeks' time, I thought I would share with you a couple of the wines we have been testing ourselves on! This Cru Bourgeois Margaux was delicious - certainly a nice treat on a Saturday afternoon... Anyone living in St Andrews can purchase this at St Andrews Wine Co. on Bell St.

Appearance: In the glass the wine appears at first glance to be a little older than 2007, with a brick orange hue to the edges, and a lighter garnet centre.

Nose: The complexity and development of this wine was quite amazing: every time I try a Margaux I am always drawn back to believing Bordeaux to be the world's top region for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Here it presents with a strong yet delicate nose of dark leather, cocoa, with a blueberry sweetness to it.

Palate: A plush chocolatey thickness gives way to a lighter stoney minerality and cleanliness on the finish, which is lengthy and very well structured. A slight hint of orange zest is notable, as well as delicate, soft spices and supple tannins.

Rating: All in all, I wish more Bordeaux could be like this. Elegant and refined, perfumed and delicate, yet with all the power and strength for its complex characteristics to show through. It is very well balanced and extremely drinkable. 9/10

Pinot d'Alsace Metiss, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace, 2009

This is an interesting blend from the Alsace region of France. It is made from predominantly Pinot Gris, but contains others in the Pinot family, like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Auxerrois. Made by Domaine Bott-Geyl, a biodynamic enterprise in Beblenheim.

Appearance: It has an inviting deep, dark gold colour, with a hint of green freshness about the edges.

Nose: It starts with amazingly fresh, clean green apples, and moves to a complex stoney minerality. It is packed with ripeness when opened in the glass, leading on to touches of honey and pear.

Palate: As is typical with many Alsatian wines, it is very dry, yet still has a ripe fruits and a full body to it. The front palate is all about the pear and apple acidity, but it then moves to a more delicate array of cloves, crystallised ginger. The finish is held together by a lengthy minerality, that leaves a pleasant warmth.

Rating: All in all, a fantastic wine for the price (c.£11). Very well-rounded, full-bodied, yet fresh. It certainly does better with food, but even without it the complexity will keep you impressed. Excellent balance of spice with acidity and weight. 8/10

Bollinger La Grand Année 2004

La Grand Année is Bollinger's vintage release and going in I was expecting a lot of power and depth. It is Pinot Noir dominant, aged for 5 years in bottle on the lees, after first fermentation in oak barrels.

Appearance: Light and fresh, yet with a gold tint. Concise and intense bubbles

Nose: It is a rather punchy nose, with toasty overtones, yeast, orange peel and hints of vanilla and clove.

Palate: Following the impressive nose, the palate shows an array of ripe fruits: pear, fig and blackcurrant.  A burst of citrus acidity on the finish is accompanied by a lingering minerality, while there are secondary notes of honey and soft, faint spices.

Rating: A lovely wine, although perhaps a little young (drunk April 2013). Following 2002 was always going to be tough, yet the wine is fresh, complex and exciting - it holds its own. Pricey, but worth the treat for a special occasion, boasting the craftsmanship and time that has gone into producing it. 8.2/10

Sciences Po International Tasting at Bollinger

This past weekend I was lucky enough to be selected to go as part of a St Andrews team of three to a tasting competition held at Bollinger, organised by the Parisian university Sciences Po. It was a competition unlike any I have done so far, with questions ranging from theoretical (about grapes permitted in specific regions, average prices, etc) to practical (arrange the following wines in order of age, which is not French and where is it from?). With twelve other university teams competing from all over Europe, the competition was fierce: the MC allowed teams between 30 seconds and 3 minutes per question depending on the difficulty, leaving little room for too much speculation. Three teams proceeded to a final round where they were given a Champagne and a red, along with 3 minutes, before presenting their findings to the judges and other competitors.

Bollinger La Grande Année Rose 1999, 2002, 2004

These sort of questions force you to focus on particular aspects of different wines and I found really helped to break up the components of each. Take, for example, the first practical question in the Champagne section. We were presented with 3 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosés and asked to sort them by age. Instead of approaching the nose and palate looking for hints of what the grape make-up could potentially be, we had to look for oak exposure, development of yeast (noting time spent ageing on the lees), strength and integration of the bubbles and complexity of the palate, all of which could indicate specifically how old a wine is. By breaking each section down into a specific aspect of the wines, I found a greater appreciation for all the factors that make up a particular bottle.

The first Rosé was dark in colour, a deep pink, with orange tinges. It showed a great deal of muscovado sugar, toasted brioche and currant flavours, but also had a strong acidity that suggested age, but perhaps not too much. It was a wine with a powerful and voluptuous palate that clearly was from a stellar vintage. The second was much more integrated as a whole mouthful, with softer acidity and lengthy sweet berry flavours, candied peel and buttery pastry. It was, however, not quite as dark in colour, and appeared lighter in consistency. The third showed a much stronger acidity and plenty of citrus on the nose. It was the lightest of the three and the palate didn't have the composure and length of the first two. Having said this, it still was a vintage Bollinger thought worthy of making a single release from, and clearly was very high quality! From that, the third would appear the youngest, while the first and second are tougher: either the first is marginally older (because of colour and power of flavour), or the second is older (because of complexity, development) and the first is just outstanding quality. As it happened, the latter was the case, with the first being 2002, the second 1999 and the third 2004.

Jeroboams ageing on the lees

Following the competition, we were treated to a tour of the Bollinger caves. This was particularly fascinating for a number of reasons for me: as well as being famous for ageing their wines far beyond what is required, Bollinger is one of relatively few Champagne houses that use oak barrels for fermentation (4,500 in total). That, along with their high percentage of Pinot Noir in every release (a minimum of 60%), gives a strong and robust wine, with a great deal of body. Looking down at the ageing process, it is clear to see that the house is obsessed with producing wine of the highest quality. The still wines (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier) which make up their final blend are fermented first mostly in oak barrels. From there, many are bottled into magnums and left in the cellars to age: the reasoning being that magnums provide the perfect sized container for ageing. After that, the still wines are blended to whatever cépage is desired and rebottled with yeast for a second fermentation. They are then left to ferment and age on the lees and are turned a few degrees every day in order to keep the yeast contact high: a process called riddling. We were told a single riddler can turn up to 25,000 bottles per day by hand - definitely needed when the cellars hold over 10 million bottles, all at different stages of the process.

Pinot Noir vines at Champagne Bollinger

My second visit to Champagne has only increased my appreciation for the wines that are grown there - hopefully it won't be the last! Bollinger's astonishing ageing process is certainly evident in their wines and there will be shorter reviews of certain cuvées coming soon so watch out for those for any tips. Huge thanks must go to Sciences Po for organising such a fantastic and challenging competition.

Dog Strangler Mourvedre, Consolation, Roussillon, France, 2009

Not normally a single varietal, this interesting wine is from the under-appreciated South of France. 

Appearance: A deep inky purple.

Nose: A tight meaty nose at first, it turns rounder and plusher after a few minutes. Notes of blackcurrant, mint, cedar and anise, as well as a vegetal undertone.

Palate: At first the palate is rather savoury. It opens with oak, sour cherry and bitter chocolate. It then, however, moves to a plummy and soft finish with warm tannins.

Rating: Overall, a strong and robust red. It is lengthy and very pleasant: perfect for a hearty cheese selection and worth the price (<20) 8/10.

Essensia Orange Muscat, Quady Vineyards, California, USA, 2009

Hello all, for my first dessert wine review I've chosen a funky sweet wine from California. It's made from Orange Muscat, which is only used in California and Australia and produces a wine with a distinctly orange flavour (as one would expect!). 

Appearance: It is a deep gold, and very inviting. Appears to be quick thick - a proper sweet wine!

Nose: It has an intense nose of orange blossom, dried apricot and mango, but also a hint of alcohol. There is a slight hint of sweet oakey spices and vanilla also.

Palate: The Essensia is very voluptuous: tropical fruits and orange juice lead to a zing of citrus peel acidity near the finish, with a lengthy and sweet finish that shows dried pineapple. It is fortified (slightly) to take it to 15%, but it is not overpowering, merely powerful.

Rating: An interesting wine that is absolutely delicious and would be a worthy accompaniment to any fruit dessert. Attractively priced (around £10/half bottle) and distinctly Californian: well worth buying. 8/10

Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Zinfandel, California, USA, 1999

For my first red wine review I have decided to review a wine I first tried at Christmas, and again this past Sunday with Easter dinner. Since I first started working with and getting into wine, Ridge has always been a personal favourite. However, this bottle is the oldest of their Zins that I have managed to try.

Appearance: It has a deep, dark centre with a lighter purple tinge towards the edges. It clings invitingly to the edges of the glass when swirls and doesn't have the off-putting thickness that some Zins can get.

Nose: The wine has an inviting nose, yet it is a little subdued (which only increases curiosity). I could pick out plums, savoury oaked spice - cloves, mostly - and a vegetal hint towards the end of my breath.

Palate: The palate comes in three waves. First, a plush, fruity burst of stewed cherry with a zing of redcurrant. Second, grippy tannins lengthen the taste with soft oaked spices, cinnamon and a touch of black pepper. This continues to the third: a powerful finish that is in no way sticky or overdone, leaving notes of tobacco, plum, cedar and dancing spices.

Rating: I rarely get to try wines such as this and I am certainly glad I was able to enjoy it with a meal to match - I would definitely recommend a roast lamb dish with any Ridge reds. Its astonishing length, beautifully composed and well-blended palate cannot really be faulted. It is full bodied, without being too thick, powerful, yet not aggressive. I wouldn't imagine it will be this good for many more years, so if you see a bottle - buy it! 9.5/10                                                                    

Simonsig Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2010

This Chardonnay has been served at the Seafood Restaurant for as long as I have worked there and is always a lovely bottle.

Appearance: Deep gold, with a green tinge.

Nose: It shows some impressive body right off the mark, with an earthy minerality. Notes of brioche, vanilla sweetness and orange blossom lead to a touch of citrus.

Palate: There is a thickness to it, yet it is not cloying. A tropical mid-palate of melon and pineapple may taste a little sweet to those not completely sold on powerful Chardonnays, but it leads to a bright acidity and oakey spice on the finish.

Rating: A lovely drop, showing how South African Chardonnay must be taken seriously. It also won't break the bank at around £12. 8/10.

Domaine Carneros Brut, Napa, USA, 2006

Welcome to a new type of post on my blog. From now on I shall have more regular, shorter posts detailing just tasting notes and a rating of particular wines. At longer intervals I will put up longer articles and reviews still, so keep an eye out for those! In keeping with a blind tasting technique I shall write these shorter posts conforming to a layout that details the wine's appearance, nose and palate, followed by a rating - hopefully this will give easy and fast recommendations...

The first wine I shall review in this way is Domaine Carneros' 2006 Brut, a sparkling wine made up of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, from Napa and Sonoma in California. Interestingly, the label is owned by Taittinger and all the sparkling wines are made in the traditional French style - that is to say that the wine is fermented a second time (after blending) in the bottle - and is aged there for 3 years before release.

Appearance: Light and straw-coloured with a hint of gold.

Nose: Complex, with toasty notes and hints of mango and apricot.

Palate: Zingy orange, dried mango and raspberry leaves present, with a lengthy finish and a well-rounded acidity that is anything but sharp.

Rating: Impressive, and clearly influenced by its French owners. 8.5/10

Pinot Gris: A Mystery Grape

Pinot Gris has always been to me somewhat of a mystery grape. Mystery in that I always found it odd that it could be such a powerful, full-bodied, expressive wine with astonishing depth of character and flavour when grown in Alsace, yet (often) such a light, crisp, sometimes bland wine elsewhere, such as in Italy where it is known as Pinot Grigio (the same can be said of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Bianco in Italy). What has brought this to my mind again recently is a recent Blind Tasting competition I was taking part in where I was presented with what appeared to be a lovely, oaked, Chardonnay. Presenting with a delicate nose of pear, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the wine that I believed to be an extremely delicious Bourgogne Blanc then moved to a sublime, full palate of honey and ripe apples. When it was revealed as a Pinot Gris from New Zealand, needless to say, I was a little stumped.  

After some research and opening a few bottles, I now feel I have more of a grasp of the grape - although, as with every puzzling varietal, I am sure I have only scratched the surface. The Italian version, Pinot Grigio, is grown in the North of the country, particularly in Fruili, Alto Adige and Lombardy. Often given a bad name by supermarket bulk orders, it has the potential to be quite a watery wine with little more than high acidity and a nose of boiled sweets; however, given the opportunity, it can be a lovely wine full of crisp green apples, almonds and a zing of mint. Similarly, Australian Pinot Gris focuses on the lighter crisp style, with Willunga being one particularly worth trying (often

attractively priced at under £10).

So far, however, I am still most struck by what Alsatian winemakers have produced, with their incredibly low yields (often down to just 4,000 litres per hectare) giving outstanding quality. With that traditional Alsatian nose that promises a voluptuous and exciting wine, every one I have tasted has not disappointed. A particular favourite has been Domaine Ostertag's Muenchberg A360P Grand Cru, which has an impressive ability to age: the '01 and '02 were both excellent, with my personal choice being the latter. It showed an amazing array of marmalade, citrus pith, rounding acidity and spice: I have yet to taste another Alsatian wine with its depth and complexity.

No doubt, Alsace's soil plays a vital role in its superiority, with the Muenchberg vineyards in particular benefiting from volcanic sediments, lime- and sandstone which impart a depth and mineral quality not found elsewhere.

Next on my list to explore will be Oregon and Canada, both of which boast Pinot Gris with high ratings that are of similar style to Alsace. The best thing about having a mystery grape to explore is that there is always more of the mystery to dive into. Stay tuned.