Time to Experiment with Food

A block tucked away in Eden Valley

I’ve posted recently about top notch Shiraz, and I’ve also talked about variety. The right balance of tradition and innovation is key to the success of a region and is something that my four months in Barossa have taught me they have here. Shiraz and Riesling, King and Queen. There is a history of fortified wines in the style of sherry and port. There is a strong array of other Rhône varietals – Grenache/Shiraz/Mourvedre; Marsanne/Roussane/Viognier. That ever so unique and astonishing red blend formerly labeled as ‘claret’ – Cabernet Sauvignon/Shiraz. Not to mention smatterings of Italian varieties – Primitivo, Barbera, Vermentino. A recent trip to Victoria’s Yarra Valley and earlier trips to other wine regions in South Australia have reaffirmed my appreciation for the community, the history and the depth of the Barossa’s wine culture. There are over 70 cellar doors here and, not surprisingly, ever more wines to try. I have not even made it to half of those but am always trying to get to more.

Half of the pleasure of a good bottle of wine comes from what you drink it with. For that reason I am going to take you through the most extravagant meal I can think of, with wine options throughout.

Canapés

Bubbles are the order here. Australia makes some outstanding sparkling wines – Tasmania especially. In the Barossa though, Sparkling Shiraz is the order of the day. I can’t believe this isn’t a more popular wine overseas! It’s fresh and full, rich and light, all at the same time, dancing with spice and bright fruit. Most are very high quality traditional champagne method sparkling wines – not the cheapest, but certainly worth it for the depth of flavour only years of lees ageing can produce! Teusner ‘MC’ 2009 Sparkling Shiraz - $60, Rockford NV Sparkling Shiraz - $120. Pair with cured or smoked meat slices, mini lamb samosas or just the local Christmas Day tradition of bacon and eggs.

Salad

It couldn’t be anything but Riesling. Lime-y, racy and tight when young or marmalade toast and almond cake when old. For a salad with more sweetness (fig and gorgonzola or balsamic and pomegranate for example) go for young and off-dry or old and rich. Langmeil ‘LiveWire’ Riesling - $20, Sons of Eden 2007 ‘Freya’ Riesling - $30. Also great with age are St Hallett.

Barossa Valley Cabernet

Fish

This is one that massively depends on the dish. For a meaty fish, like Monkfish or even Halibut, with a rich cassoulet or chorizo side, go with a Grenache or Mourvèdre (known here mostly as Mataro) based blend. The more Mataro, generally the earthier it will be. Spinifex ‘Esprit’ GMSCC - $35 (finished with dashes of Carignan and Cinsault, light and fruity with underlying spice). For lighter fish dishes, from whiting to salmon, think MRV – Marsanne/Roussanne/Viognier, which has hints of stone fruit, a full bodied palate and a dry finish. Yalumba Roussanne - $20, John Duval ‘Plexus’ MRV - $30.

Main

It’s got to be something off the barbeque. Think slow cooked ribs thrown on to crisp up, or a classic slab of steak. I’d go with something traditional to the Barossa, and very unique to Australia: the Cabernet-Shiraz blend. I don’t know why this isn’t more popular over the world, as the two grapes complement each other so well! A classic is Yalumba 2010 Signature or 2011 FDR1A - $45/38, Rockford 2011 ‘Rod and Spur’ - $33. I prefer more Cab than Shiraz, so the more herbal and minty notes from the Cabernet bind with the rich, fruity Shiraz.

Dessert

Endless options. I am a huge fan of botrytis Riesling. It is sweet, but with a cleansing whack of acidity to balance it all out. Heggies Botrytis Riesling - $28 is killer with a good old pavlova.

Cheese

Again, this is definitely an area to experiment! The local Barossa Cheese Co has a good range of different styles, perfect to play around with different wine styles. For sticky fans, try an aged sweet Semillon for nutty, marmalade characters, like Two Hands 2010 ‘For Love or Money’ Semillon - $35 or Hobbs 2006 Dessert Semillon - $39.

I have tried here to showcase the endless options available for a wine and food lover. Most of the best pairings are accidents or experiments – so give it a go! Pop into your local bottle shop and ask about what might go with a new dish, or go to the Barossa section and try something you’ve never had. I’m continually impressed and I’m sure you can be to…

All prices correct in the Barossa at time of posting.

Barossa, 4 Months In

Since September I have been living in the Barossa Valley, South Australia - check out my blog from the internship I was on with the Yalumba Wine Company here, at Mentor Me - Hugh. After the program finished, I decided to stay in South Australia and have been working in Cellar Doors and will be moving into the cellar itself at Yalumba for the 2015 harvest in a month. 

Artisans of Barossa, photo: H McCullough

In the three months since my internship ended, I've been able to meet a lot of honest, hard-working people who make some very tasty wines. I've also met a lot of tourists. I am in a strange position - a tourist myself, selling wine to other tourists. In mid-October I started working in the Yalumba Wine Room and at the same time, the Artisans of Barossa Tasting Room. Artisans of Barossa is a shared tasting room for 7 small Barossa producers, each of whom has a totally different approach and philosophy about winemaking. Over the next couple of weeks I hope to share with you some of my experiences with Yalumba and the Artisans, as well as some delicious drops I've been lucky enough to try...

I haven't had many days off, but the last few that I have had, I have made my way around the valleys a bit more; tasting more and learning more. With the extra time here I have without doubt developed more of an appreciation for the regions and areas around the Barossa - whether they be legally limited or not. The history of the place never ceases to fascinate me. I recently drank a Shiraz made from vines planted in 1880 (Barossa is full of these old vines, having escaped the ravaging vine-killing pest phylloxera, which has devastated vineyards all over the world) by a family that still tends to the vines, 6 generations later, selling their prized fruit to a winemaker 2km up the road to make a stunning drop of complex, rare and age-worthy wine. I have two bottles of it and will find it very very hard to keep my hands off while it slowly develops in my cupboard. The stories behind the wine are what make drinking a bottle worth it, for me. Getting the opportunity to meet those who strive to make the best possible wine is consuming - I hope that comes across when I pour tastings for visitors. 

Believe it or not, Shiraz was not my thing until I moved here. That has definitely changed. Anyone I can convert to Shiraz will never look back! There is no better feeling than having a visitor come in and say 'I don't know your wines and Shiraz isn't really my favourite - what can you show me?', then leave with two or three different styles they will appreciate and drink for years to come. So, with that in mind, here are three stunning - and completely different - Shiraz styles that have blown me away in the last few months:

- Sons of Eden Remus Shiraz 2012, Eden Valley

     This is a beast of a wine. Named for the mythical brother of the founder of Rome, Romulus, Remus is a powerful expression of what Eden wines can do. While their Romulus Shiraz is Barossa Valley fruit in American oak (ripe fruit on sweeter oak), Remus is Eden fruit on French oak (spice on spice). The cooler climate of the higher elevation Eden Valley tends to give Shiraz with a more peppery character, as well as a slightly lighter and more elegant palate. 20 months on 65% new French oak gives plenty of power, though and this will be one to come back to for at least 15 years. 

- Yalumba Paradox Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley

     What an elegant wine. Those who think Barossa Shiraz is boozy and ripe must taste this to begin changing their minds! Subtle savoury characters come through this wine and maturation in large format barrels give it a mellow complexity rather than an over-oaked flavour. Wonderful with spiced lamb - all I can think about when tasting it! 

- John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2009, Eden and Barossa Valley

     A stunning wine from a winemaker who certainly knows his way around Shiraz (and Syrah!). Eligo means to hand select and this is exactly what has happened - fruit is marked from the vine as being of exceptional quality and only gets exceptional treatment. Every time you return to it, it shows off another dimension: bitter chocolate, blueberries, blackcurrants with a textured and lengthy finish of sublime, restrained power. Delicious.

I implore you all to go taste the fruits of the Barossa! More to come...

Notes from Portugal

I have recently spent a week in southern Portugal and much to my delight, was spoilt for choice when it came to wine. Like most European countries that aren't Great Britain, Portugal's wine culture is one that regards a bottle of wine not as an alcoholic drink to control, but an accompaniment to food; a refreshing drink on a hot summer's day. This is shown of course by restaurants serving nips of Port or Moscatel de Setubal when the bill is asked for. Mostly, however, it is shown in the price. Bottles in the supermarket start at around €1.49 and in restaurants at around €10. 'Wait!' I hear you cry - 'I can buy Tesco wines for £3 and Wetherspoons has bottle offers for £12!' The difference, however, is substantial. The huge amount of tax on wines imported to the UK means that the cheapest bargain bottles will have literally pennies spent on production, forcing supermarkets and pub chains to buy wine made in vast bulk quantities with little regard for quality. This is not the case in Portugal. What makes Portugal even more interesting is that most people - even wine geeks - have little to no idea about the intricacies of Portuguese grape varieties. 

There is a massive variety of styles made in the relatively small 600x200km country. From the lightest, freshest white Vinho Verde to the richest, booziest red Port there is a style for everyone. That is what made this trip exciting. Anyone who gets the chance to visit should try this: go to a local supermarket (bear with me here) and pick a random four bottles. When they are done, go do it again. It will never get old. The occasional bottle I recognised as being sold in the UK, but that only made me savour the experience more (Lavradores de Feitora Branco, a white wine from the Douro was €2.49, sold in the UK for £9.99). 

For those who like wine and are interested in more than being amazed at price differences in the EU, here is the fine print. Portugal's wine industry is made up of a number of cooperatives, and more recently, of a growing proportion of single estates (quintas) that continue to use local varietals with difficult-to-pronounce names. Inroads made by international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay are minimal and this serves to preserve what is one of the oldest geographically protected wine systems in Europe, which dates back to the mid-eighteenth century. Rapid modernisation since Portugal's entrance into the EU in 1986 thankfully hasn't changed the variety that makes Portugal's wine industry so interesting and enjoyable to explore. 

Here are a few styles that caught my attention while I was there:

Vinho Verde: It is always put on a different section in wine lists (Green Wine, White Wine, Red Wine) and with good reason. These wines from the north-west are made predominantly from Alvarinho and are often ever so slightly sparkling. They are also around 12%abv and are perfect summer wines. Light, refreshing and citrus-y, and in my opinion, far more exciting than generic Sauvignon Blanc.

Douro: Reds make up 80% of production here and are dry, powerful wines. Intense tannins and ripe fruit is often backed up with well-balanced acidity. If you splash out on a €10 bottle, expect complex spices and oak influences. Case-in-point: Quinta do Vale Meao's Meandro, €10.49 in a supermarket and an outstanding blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Rouriz and Sousao. 

Bairrada: Aromatic, yet crisp, whites were the most interesting from this region to the south-west of the Douro, with the reds too sharp in youth. Blends of Fernao Pires, Arinto and Cercial were great alternatives to Viognier or even Gewuertztraminer, with lovely weight and texture, ripe tropical fruits and good structure throughout.

All in all, Portugal was an amazing place to explore wine. The array of grapes and styles is endless, from the north to the south. There is far more in Portugal than just Port, and even though the taxes in the UK are vast, they are for all wines and most from Portugal still outstrip other countries in terms of value for money. Needless to say, it is a whole other story if you get the chance to visit yourself! Next time you are looking to try something new, ask your local bottle shop about their selection of Portuguese wines - you never know what gem you'll find.

A Year of Study, What Now?

Well, it has been nearly a year since my last post, which was about a visit to Montoliva Winery in the Sierra Foothills of Northern California. Much has happened since then - for both wine and non-wine things. A year as Captain of the Blind Tasting Team has opened my eyes to new and exciting styles and varieties as well as led to tasting success at the Sciences Po International Tasting VI at Champagne Bollinger (3rd place for St Andrews) and putting up a valiant effort at the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup qualifier in London and our Pol Roger Varsity match against Edinburgh. My final year at university will hopefully yield a degree (results coming shortly); essay work certainly led to off-topic diversions into the history of wine and grape migration to California, South America and Australia... In between tasting and university has been the WSET Level 3 course, a British-based Wine and Spirit qualification that has laid good foundations for further wine study. 

But what next?

In September I shall be traveling half way around the world to Adelaide, South Australia. I have been lucky enough to secure an internship with Yalumba, a family-owned winery in the Barossa Valley, and will be working there for a month, trying to learn as much as possible about the production process. (Yalumba, interestingly, has been a star winery in Oz for me for a while. Their Viognier is amazing and was a staple on the restaurant wine list. Check out What To Do With Viognier.) In the meantime, I am splitting my week between Luvians Bottle Shop (sales) and The Seafood Restaurant (sommelier) in beautiful St Andrews, Scotland. I'll be starting to post more regularly - musings about the industry, pairings, memorable wines - so pop back for nuggets of knowledge about all things viniferous: though I can't guarantee you'll agree with it all. If you're hip enough to have a Twitter, follow me @ItsInTheSwirl for 140-character opinions, when the mood strikes. 

Above all enjoy the sun and crack a bottle of something tasty!

A Touch Of Italy In The Sierra Foothills

The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva. 

The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.

But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do. 

Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one. 

A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future. 

Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.

Other wines tried: 

Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.

Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!

Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.

Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.

Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.

The Left Bank: Feeling Wine

The final competition of the Tasting Team calendar is the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, the first round of which is hosted by the Commanderie du Bontemps in London. Other first round matches are held in France, USA and China with the top two teams progressing to the final in Bordeaux. Though St Andrews did not make the final, I was enlightened by the experience and, of course, the practise. In the weeks running up to the competition we tasted all we could from the Left Bank, from Médoc and Haut-Médoc to St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux, down to Pessac-Léognan and Graves. There was even a set of questions on Sauternes and Barsac. While the sweet wine was delicious, it was the reds that fascinated me. 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

We were training to be able to pick out the regions and communes, as well as the vintages of wines we were given. Initially I felt very daunted by the prospect. Before this, I had been rather taken with New World opulence, such as can be found in Californian Cabernets, and had not been tasting many French wines. I went in expecting to have to learn specific flavour, body and character differences for each village, yet when we began trying to break down each wine we tried, I realised how subjective and general much of this was. There was an astonishing level of depth and flavour for everything we tried - so much so that after a while, my tasting notes began to look more and more like a rather strange shopping list. On one particular comparison between a St-Julien and a Pauillac everything from mushrooms, tobacco, cassis, new leather shoes, cocoa and coffee to bell peppers, cumin, rubber, mint and strawberries appeared at some point.

Taking a step back, I looked to the basic composition of each commune and my initial first impressions of each wine. Rather than trying to come up with a formula, I decided to go on particular characteristics that seemed to jump out when I tasted each one for the first time. The first thing to know when thinking about the Left Bank is the soil. In the north (Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac) there is much more clay in the soils, which, generally speaking, allows for a thicker, more fertile and fruity wine. Further south, there is more gravel (St-Julien, Margaux and Graves). This allows more drainage and the wines typically show more delicacy and perfume, as well as a more stoney minerality. 

While Bordeaux now is typically much more expensive than many other regions, what I learned from the few weeks of Bordeaux tasting is that there is still something to be said for France's claim to make the best red wine. I will steer clear of agreeing or disagreeing with that statement just yet, though I will say that by working my way down the Left Bank I have a great appreciation for depth and character of the wines. The complexity and harmony of the flavours is unparalleled. When tasting, though it sounds cheesy, try to the feel the differences in the wines: a much better way of appreciating and beginning to understand the differences between the communes. 

Haut-Médoc: Power and thickness are key. One to try is Chateau Cissac.

St-Estèphe: Look for darker notes (tar, coffee, chocolate) and savoury touches. One to try is Chateau Meyney.

Pauillac: Velvety. One to try is Chateau Pontet-Canet.

St-Julien: Lean and woody, look for red fruits. One to try is Clos du Marquis (second label of Léoville-Las Cases).

Margaux: Delicate and perfumed, subtle and herbaceous. One to try is Chateau Martinens.

Graves: Stoney, yet delicate. Supple fruit. One to try is Chateau Peyrat.

Sciences Po International Tasting at Bollinger

This past weekend I was lucky enough to be selected to go as part of a St Andrews team of three to a tasting competition held at Bollinger, organised by the Parisian university Sciences Po. It was a competition unlike any I have done so far, with questions ranging from theoretical (about grapes permitted in specific regions, average prices, etc) to practical (arrange the following wines in order of age, which is not French and where is it from?). With twelve other university teams competing from all over Europe, the competition was fierce: the MC allowed teams between 30 seconds and 3 minutes per question depending on the difficulty, leaving little room for too much speculation. Three teams proceeded to a final round where they were given a Champagne and a red, along with 3 minutes, before presenting their findings to the judges and other competitors.

Bollinger La Grande Année Rose 1999, 2002, 2004

These sort of questions force you to focus on particular aspects of different wines and I found really helped to break up the components of each. Take, for example, the first practical question in the Champagne section. We were presented with 3 Bollinger La Grande Année Rosés and asked to sort them by age. Instead of approaching the nose and palate looking for hints of what the grape make-up could potentially be, we had to look for oak exposure, development of yeast (noting time spent ageing on the lees), strength and integration of the bubbles and complexity of the palate, all of which could indicate specifically how old a wine is. By breaking each section down into a specific aspect of the wines, I found a greater appreciation for all the factors that make up a particular bottle.

The first Rosé was dark in colour, a deep pink, with orange tinges. It showed a great deal of muscovado sugar, toasted brioche and currant flavours, but also had a strong acidity that suggested age, but perhaps not too much. It was a wine with a powerful and voluptuous palate that clearly was from a stellar vintage. The second was much more integrated as a whole mouthful, with softer acidity and lengthy sweet berry flavours, candied peel and buttery pastry. It was, however, not quite as dark in colour, and appeared lighter in consistency. The third showed a much stronger acidity and plenty of citrus on the nose. It was the lightest of the three and the palate didn't have the composure and length of the first two. Having said this, it still was a vintage Bollinger thought worthy of making a single release from, and clearly was very high quality! From that, the third would appear the youngest, while the first and second are tougher: either the first is marginally older (because of colour and power of flavour), or the second is older (because of complexity, development) and the first is just outstanding quality. As it happened, the latter was the case, with the first being 2002, the second 1999 and the third 2004.

Jeroboams ageing on the lees

Following the competition, we were treated to a tour of the Bollinger caves. This was particularly fascinating for a number of reasons for me: as well as being famous for ageing their wines far beyond what is required, Bollinger is one of relatively few Champagne houses that use oak barrels for fermentation (4,500 in total). That, along with their high percentage of Pinot Noir in every release (a minimum of 60%), gives a strong and robust wine, with a great deal of body. Looking down at the ageing process, it is clear to see that the house is obsessed with producing wine of the highest quality. The still wines (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier) which make up their final blend are fermented first mostly in oak barrels. From there, many are bottled into magnums and left in the cellars to age: the reasoning being that magnums provide the perfect sized container for ageing. After that, the still wines are blended to whatever cépage is desired and rebottled with yeast for a second fermentation. They are then left to ferment and age on the lees and are turned a few degrees every day in order to keep the yeast contact high: a process called riddling. We were told a single riddler can turn up to 25,000 bottles per day by hand - definitely needed when the cellars hold over 10 million bottles, all at different stages of the process.

Pinot Noir vines at Champagne Bollinger

My second visit to Champagne has only increased my appreciation for the wines that are grown there - hopefully it won't be the last! Bollinger's astonishing ageing process is certainly evident in their wines and there will be shorter reviews of certain cuvées coming soon so watch out for those for any tips. Huge thanks must go to Sciences Po for organising such a fantastic and challenging competition.

Pinot Gris: A Mystery Grape

Pinot Gris has always been to me somewhat of a mystery grape. Mystery in that I always found it odd that it could be such a powerful, full-bodied, expressive wine with astonishing depth of character and flavour when grown in Alsace, yet (often) such a light, crisp, sometimes bland wine elsewhere, such as in Italy where it is known as Pinot Grigio (the same can be said of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Bianco in Italy). What has brought this to my mind again recently is a recent Blind Tasting competition I was taking part in where I was presented with what appeared to be a lovely, oaked, Chardonnay. Presenting with a delicate nose of pear, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the wine that I believed to be an extremely delicious Bourgogne Blanc then moved to a sublime, full palate of honey and ripe apples. When it was revealed as a Pinot Gris from New Zealand, needless to say, I was a little stumped.  

After some research and opening a few bottles, I now feel I have more of a grasp of the grape - although, as with every puzzling varietal, I am sure I have only scratched the surface. The Italian version, Pinot Grigio, is grown in the North of the country, particularly in Fruili, Alto Adige and Lombardy. Often given a bad name by supermarket bulk orders, it has the potential to be quite a watery wine with little more than high acidity and a nose of boiled sweets; however, given the opportunity, it can be a lovely wine full of crisp green apples, almonds and a zing of mint. Similarly, Australian Pinot Gris focuses on the lighter crisp style, with Willunga being one particularly worth trying (often

attractively priced at under £10).

So far, however, I am still most struck by what Alsatian winemakers have produced, with their incredibly low yields (often down to just 4,000 litres per hectare) giving outstanding quality. With that traditional Alsatian nose that promises a voluptuous and exciting wine, every one I have tasted has not disappointed. A particular favourite has been Domaine Ostertag's Muenchberg A360P Grand Cru, which has an impressive ability to age: the '01 and '02 were both excellent, with my personal choice being the latter. It showed an amazing array of marmalade, citrus pith, rounding acidity and spice: I have yet to taste another Alsatian wine with its depth and complexity.

No doubt, Alsace's soil plays a vital role in its superiority, with the Muenchberg vineyards in particular benefiting from volcanic sediments, lime- and sandstone which impart a depth and mineral quality not found elsewhere.

Next on my list to explore will be Oregon and Canada, both of which boast Pinot Gris with high ratings that are of similar style to Alsace. The best thing about having a mystery grape to explore is that there is always more of the mystery to dive into. Stay tuned.

A Couple Of Kiwis

Before I got myself caught up in a busy semester at University I had been planning on writing one last piece on my trip to California, namely on Paul Hobbs, whose Chardonnay I loved back in February (A Spectacular Chardonnay - and still do). However, I will write up the reds I tasted there in an upcoming post once I have re-tasted a few that weighed down my suitcase on my return flight. Now I will give a little recommendation or two for those of you stuck for New Year's gifts, or a nice bottle for that last family dinner before a return to work. 

The wines I have tasted recently are from New Zealand: an area that has fascinated me in the last 6 months, while working as the Sommelier of the Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews. The reason for this interest stems from the fact that a Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc that I was pouring was the best selling wine at the restaurant. I thought I should delve more into the country. 

Known (sometimes unfairly) popularly just for Marlborough's Sauvignon, New Zealand is a relatively young wine-growing country, but one that is rapidly expanding with a great deal of passion and pride in quality. For my Christmas dinner this year I decided to opt for solely Kiwi wines and made a point to get wines that I had never had before and that were not what one would normally expect from the country. With roast lamb I chose a Unison Syrah (06) from the Hawke's Bay region which ended up being an outstanding match for both the meat and the following spiced butterscotch toffee pudding. With cheeses, I opted for a sweeter 08 Neudorf Riesling from Nelson with 47g/l of residual sugar (which equates it roughly with high quality Spaetlese Riesling from Germany). 

The Syrah is produced in the Gimblett Gravels area of Hawke's Bay, which is 800 hectares of the best irrigated, shingled and most fertile soils in the region, known for its outstanding quality. It presented with quite a subdued nose at first, but with a little time open it was an impressively opulent yet fresh bouquet of ripe fruits that came forward. A silky smooth palate was complemented with a continuation of bold fruits into a balanced, calm tannic finish. The finish itself moved from fruit to spices and I was left with a lengthy and warm taste of cloves and pepper that did not overpower the fruit of moments before. 

The Riesling is their 'Moutere' bottling, meaning the grapes come solely from vines in the Moutere Hills in Nelson, known for their quality. The vineyard itself was named Winery of the Year 2012 by Raymond Chan Reviews recently and judging by the Riesling, it was deserved. The nose gives off a cool florality that is matched on the palate by an almost wet vegetal nature that I have come to associate with many Kiwi Rieslings. The residual sugar is beautifully matched with a cleansing acidity and hint of petillance that reminds me of much pricier Mosel wines. A strong tropicality with the slightest touch of greenery binds it all together into a long-lasting and impressive mouthful. 

Looking into New Zealand's wines over the last 6 months or so has opened my eyes to a wide variety of grapes and styles, and these two particular wines reinforced that, without question. There are many more surprises to come, I'm sure, with a rising production of Gewuertztraminer and Pinot Gris, and continuing emphasis on high-quality Chardonnay in Gisborne, as well as elsewhere. In short there are fantastic wines to be found. If any readers are from the Oxfordshire area, these particular wines were purchased from Wine Bear, a fantastic new shop in Chipping Norton, each for around £13-17.

Wine Tourism

     Following my tasting at Chateau Montelena, which was eye-opening to say the least, we drove up and down Hwy 29 without any plans, popping in to the vineyards which I recognised, which looked good, and one or two others randomly. That is the beauty of Napa - it is geared for tourism: everything is within reach, which is perfect for those (like me) who begin to feel the effects of multiple tastings quickly despite asking for a spittoon at every winery. On that day we visited Grgich Hills Estate, Alpha and Omega, Pride Mountain Vineyards and Heitz Cellars, trying anything and everything we could: with grapes ranging from the usual (Napa Cab) to the unusual ('Port', dessert Gewuertztraminer, Viognier). 

     I was extremely impressed with Grgich Hills, which I had served a few years ago as a waiter in Lake Tahoe, and had seen once or twice in the UK. Their Chardonnay was mildly oaked and seemed to focus its attention on a complex blend of passion fruit, lemon zest and touches of tropicality. Lower in alcohol than many Napa Chardonnays, it was certainly one to remember. The stand-out from this vineyard, however, was something I was not expecting to come across - a late harvest blend of Gewuertztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc which they had named 'Violetta'. It had an amazingly intense nose which reminded me of a Mosel Spaetlese, with plenty of apricot and cherry blossom. It carried a touch of acidity to the back of the palate which balanced out the deep sweetness quite well. Despite its price ($85) it was a very interesting dessert wine. 

  Heitz Cellars was one that caught my eye on the drive in, and is a vineyard that I have bought from in the UK before. We pulled in and were welcomed by a very knowledgable man who knew exactly who I had bought it from just months before. He showed us their extensive range of boutique Cabernet Sauvignons ranging from $60 to upwards of $150 per bottle. All were very heavily oaked (3 and a half years), powerful and bright, with notes of cherry and eucalyptus running through. The star here was a 2000 'Martha's Vineyard' which was opened specially for us, and did not disappoint! 

Less exciting was a trip to the relatively new Alpha and Omega, which for some reason has a great reputation in the US. This was lost on me though as the Cabernets we tried were incredibly young, nowhere near ready and rather acidic. They said they were making them in the Pomerol style, but what was produced was not plush and exuberant, but rather sharp. From there, however, we were given a tip to drive out to Pride Mountain Vineyards north of Calistoga about 30 minutes, and this was definitely worth the trip! 

     Pride straddles the border between Napa and Sonoma counties, so all their grapes are weighed and categorised as soon as they are picked so each bottle can describe the percentage from each county each wine contains. They are renowned for their Viognier which was described to me by a rival winemaker as "the best outside of Condrieu", and has been served at the White House Christmas Dinner 9 years running. It lived up to expectations: even the 2011 was fantastically developed, showing an amazingly floral nose and a palate that wasn't too oily, with dancing fresh acidity all the way through. The finish was lengthy and luscious, while maintaining an impressive composure of jasmine, peach and lychee. Another feature of Californian wines that Pride have managed to integrate extremely well is the high alcohol content: this particular wine was listed officially at 14.2%, but that was not at all noticeable. 

     All in all, it was a day packed full of a vast array of styles and grapes, but one that I will never forget. The variety in Napa is astounding, and I'm sure I will be trying to map it out for many, many years to come.  

Chateau Montelena

For the first of 3 posts about tasting in Napa Valley I will focus on just one winery. Chateau Montelena was the first place I had a reserved tasting and is situated in the north of Napa Valley in the small town of Calistoga. It is a beautiful place with a stone chateau nestled in the side of the hills covered in trees. The left side has been renovated to accommodate the tourists which now bring so much revenue in the area. I was brought to a private room where 6 glasses were lined up ready to go. 

I was led through the tasting by a girl who was extremely passionate about the place. First was their Potter Valley Riesling which is made in a traditional German style - an ode to the founder of the Chateau who was himself German and a great fan of the grape. It was off-dry, yet wonderfully balanced without the flabbiness and sticky nature of many Napa Rieslings. Being a big fan of Riesling made in this style, I really enjoyed this wine - perfect for fresh seafood, or asian dishes. From there I was given the 2009 Chardonnay. The Chardonnay here has been very well-known since the Judgement of Paris in the 70s, and especially since the recognition in the movie Bottleshock. The tasting did not disappoint - it was a spectacular wine that was subtle yet powerful from nose to the back of the palate. Beautiful sugary nuttiness on the finish, with a silky blossom, citrus and tropicality on the palate. It was lengthy and very impressive - definitely one to savour, if given the chance. 

What was apparent though, was that they wished to show off their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. I was then given four vintages of this in a row, from 04, and 06 through 08. The 2004 was sublime - well-rounded, gripping tannins were the feature, with a punchy blackcurrant palate, touches of cedar-wood and an almost minty coolness providing an exciting mouthful. 

The next three vintages were varying in their excellence. They all seemed very young and not sure of their feet quite yet. The 2007 was mediocre despite the perfect growing weather in the season, while the 2008 showed fantastic promise, with very well-integrated alcohol and structure. The star was however the 2006 which had a very impressive fruity palate that took over and lasted for ever, with a silky tannic hold assisting. 

Overall, the Chateau, while catering for tourists, seemed to hold a sense of being solely about the wine. They were very well-made and all incredibly powerful. However, due to relatively small production and costs, it is near impossible to find it over in the UK, a great shame. This does mean though that I am not going to be able to shell out £100 or so per bottle very often. My favourite of the tasting had to be the Chardonnay. It certainly lived up to expectation and at around £40 per bottle it is a steal for those special occasions. If any of you are in the States, it would be worth buying one or two.

Napa Valley

Over this busy summer I have been working at the Seafood Restaurant with their wine list, but towards the end I was allowed to escape for a couple weeks and managed to get over to the USA where my family is from. I snuck away for a couple days and visited Napa Valley - somewhere that has always appealed to my love of American wine and culture. It did not disappoint. This first post about Napa is more a general impression of the area, while later ones will detail tastings and recommendations. 

I was travelling with my flatmate in St Andrews, and although he isn't quite as in to wine as me, he was open to try it, and did not feel left out. This seemed to be the theme of the Valley: openness to any level of appreciation. He was always made to feel welcome at all the vineyards, whether they were talking to me about the length of oak ageing, or pouring us tastes of new vintages. 

We drove in from the South and immediately drove North along Hwy 29 all the way up to Calistoga, to be ready to taste at 10am at Chateau Montelena, of Bottleshock fame. The climate in the summer is hot - around 28 degrees - and cool in the evening, with little to no chance of rain. It was an idyllic setting to drive towards. The Valley itself is relatively contained, and Hwy 29 is only paralleled by one other road, meaning that everything is right there and easily reached. We were bombarded by signs advertising tastings from 10am until 5pm every day, offers such as 'Crazy Good Cabernets' and 'The Wine is Bottled Poetry' and much more. We had booked just the one tasting in advance, with the intention of popping in wherever took our fancy afterwards, and in retrospect this was the best way to do it. Driving along the Highway I saw a few vineyards from whom I had recently bought, and it was great to be able to decide to pull up unannounced and be welcomed for a selection to try without pre-booking, as one would surely have to do in Europe. 

The impression I was given about wine-making in Napa was that it was unrestricted and all about passion. One wine-maker I was talking to said that he had given up a career in France to work in California because of the lack of restrictions on grape variety, length of ageing, materials you can use - the list goes on. For him, the Californian wine industry was all about what you wanted to do, if you made good wine, well done, otherwise you wouldn't sell it! The soil and climate is so suited to viticulture, that with that passion, it is possible to produce fantastic wine. The vast majority of what we tried was fantastic, and if not, it was at least interesting, off the wall or something I had never before thought of trying. 

Napa was, for want of a better word, alive and a place I would without doubt live and work. If one doesn't want to live and work there, one leaves. It seems to be as simple as that. As a result, everyone, down to those working part time in the tasting rooms pouring wine for tourists, loved what they were doing and that was a very impressive and likeable trait. 

Keep your eyes peeled for a series of write-ups of a selection of the vineyards I visited - they are without doubt worth watching out for.

Champagne: Pol Roger

I was lucky enough last week to visit Pol Roger in Epernay, Champagne. Champagne is a drink that I have always had in the back of my mind as something nice to drink in celebration, but had never really considered it properly until this visit. Following this trip, my opinion has completely changed. 

Pol Roger is one of the smaller houses and, as a result of this, focuses its energy on producing lower yields of exceptional quality. It uses only the first press of the grapes it harvests by hand (think of extra virgin olive oil as a parallel), and following fermentation in metal vats and blending into a Pinot-dominated mix, the wine is aged in bottle, cared for by hand by a dedicated and meticulously trained group of cellar hands. The Non-Vintage is aged for up to 3 years from the picking of the grapes, while the Vintage up to 10 or more. This produces a sublimely developed and complex wine that one can tell everyone at the Maison is extremely proud of. 

For the first part of the visit we were treated to a tour of the cellars, local vineyards around Epernay and of the surrounding area. The highlight for me was a tasting before we left, during which we tried the component parts that are later blended by a panel consisting of the Chef de Caves, members of the family and others. As the bubbles in Champagne are achieved by bottle-ageing the wine and trapping the gas within the wine, the pre-blended wines are still. The Chardonnay produced sharp acidity with intense citrus, while the Pinot Noir was more full-bodied. Pinot Meunier added depth and an intense red berry character. 

After the wine has been blended and aged for the appropriate time, the sediment is removed from the top of the bottle and a dash of a sugar liqueur is added to make up the final product. It is left a further 6 months or so to fully integrate before being released and shipped to various corners of the world. 

Pol Roger makes three Non-Vintage wines and four Vintage, and all were outstanding and worth trying. The Non-Vintage are a 'Pure', 'Brut' and 'Rich'. The Pure has no sugar liqueur added, so is a bone-dry wine suited best for food, rather than as an aperitif, such as oysters and other shellfish. It gives a healthy punch of acidity and shows off the blending process bringing notes of light spices, green apple and a deep minerality. The Brut, with roughly equal parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and a dash of the sugar liqueur dosage brings more of a nutiness and presents with apricots and a floral palate. The Rich is a dessert Champagne and was my personal favourite. The sugar content is increased to 34 grams per litre and the wine gives honey aromas with a refreshing acidity and minerality on the finish, making it very well-rounded and perfect for accompanying fruit cakes and tarts. 

The Vintage wines produced at the moment are the Brut, Rose, Blanc de Blancs and Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. Just released was the Brut 2002 - with no Pinot Meunier and more Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. It is a wine with great depth and body and an intense gold colour. The Rose 2004 surprised me somewhat as I am generally not a fan of Rose Champagne. This one gave notes of muscovado sugar and stewed fruit and with a touch of sugar dosage it is perfect with light desserts. The Blanc de Blancs (as the name suggests) is purely Chardonnay. Being an admirer of Pol Roger's commitment to Pinot Noir, I was skeptical about this wine, however following the first sip I was convinced otherwise. The 2000 was light and fine with notes of brioche and almond I was not expecting, along with a lengthy dry finish - perfect for seafood or as a special occasion aperitif. Last but certainly not least is their 'flagship', if you will. The Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill is made only when the harvest and growing has been exceptional, and at no other time. It is a heavily Pinot Noir-dominated blend of roughly 70 or 80%, made to what the Maison believe our ex-Prime Minister would have enjoyed (he was a devoted customer of Pol Roger himself). The 1999 at around 125 pounds per bottle is not cheap, but is something to behold. All the grapes are from Grand Cru vineyards and produce a stunning wine with decades left in the bottle to improve. Currently it shows a deep complexity and nuttiness with stone fruits, almond and a floral, berried nose. 

Pol Roger were fantastic hosts and have certainly convinced me of their philosophy of quality over quantity. Any of their seven cuvees are worth trying, and all are brilliant food wines as well as on their own. Do give them a go.