Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses 'Clos de la Croix de Pierre' 1er Cru 2000

Recently I have been drinking a lot of American and Australian wines. I have always been a sucker for the rich, oaked Pinots from Oregon and California, and with an upcoming move to the Barossa Valley, have been trying more and more Shiraz. Except for last night. Every once in a while it's good to shock your palate and go back to a completely different style. I have recently been working on figuring out drinking windows for the Fine Wine Room at Luvians Bottle Shop and the last week or so has seen me going through our Burgundy section. What better way to see if the critics are right about 1er Crus' general potential to age for 10-15 years than to try a bottle? 

Louis Jadot is one of the largest and most well-known of Burgundy negociants, with plots and grape growers all over Burgundy, from the Nuits, to Beaune, Macon and Beaujolais. It makes wine at all price points and really showcases the best of the region. Pernand Vergelesses is a village in the north of the Cote de Beaune and makes white and red wine on its cool east-facing slopes that protect the vines from the pesky weather. In the area, Pommard, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune itself often make Pernand-Vergelesses wines relatively good value for money (as was the case for this wine, sitting at £25). 

Appearance: Just what I had hoped for in a 14 year old Burgundy: Light, dusty garnet colour - slightly rusty with orange tinted edges.

Nose: When first opened it gave off strong earthy aromas that would give it away as a Burgundy instantly in a blind tasting: notes of tobacco, farmyard and wet fur slowly gave way to macerated strawberries and tart cherries. As it opened up over the next hour the fruit came forward. Hints of liquorice and cedar wood developed, as well as a beautifully inviting rose petal note.

Palate: The palate was light and dry, with high acidity and low tannins, as you would expect from a Pinot. Initially it was quite funky (mushrooms, truffles, dusty farmy notes), but with time in the glass it blossomed. The purity of fruit was amazing, strawberries and cherries bursting on the mid-palate. Spicy notes popped up all over the place - cinnamon, clove, anise - complementing and backing the subtle vanilla hints from the oak ageing. This all blends seamlessly to a lengthy and powerful finish.

Conclusions: The wine has certainly aged well. The funky farmyard notes would have been too overpowering a few years ago, but have mellowed into a perfect drinking window just now. Amazing depth and complexity showed as it opened up in the glass: this wine proves Burgundy 1er Cru should be drunk either very young or after 14-16 years! Cracking Pinot and unmistakably Burgundy

  

Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay 2006

Here in the UK, Ridge Vineyards holds a special place in every wine-lover's mind. Though we only get a selection of their impressive range, what does make it across the pond always surprises and excites drinkers. Some expect the boldest, oak-heavy, Cabs, Zins and Chardonnays that California has become known for. Others who know Ridge's expert blending skills and supremely balanced, restrained style are almost always still pleasantly surprised with the composure and complexity in the wines. This Chardonnay is no different. I have previously reviewed their Geyserville Zinfandel-heavy blend to show how well Zin can age and have been eyeing this 06 Chardonnay for a while, wondering how well it has stood the test of time...

Appearance: A viscous intense gold colour that still appears lively and inviting.

Nose: On the nose the wine instantly shows its development - rich, nutty aromas move on to buttered toast along with bruised apples and pears and a hint of cinnamon. There are also hints of vanilla, honeysuckle and orange rind.

Palate: Once in your mouth this wine comes alive. It is full-bodied and all-encompassing. Rich and creamy, it tastes of apple pie, with the same notes of cinnamon and other Christmas spices, as well as giving lovely nutty notes intertwined with tropical fruits too. The complexity is amazing and I could keep listing flavours that dance around - the finish caps it all off and will stay with you for what seems like an age.

Conclusion: After 8 years this Chardonnay is really impressive. Though I'm not sure it could keep going for much longer, this amount of development is perfect for it. Ridge's top vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains has produced a Chardonnay that is balanced, restrained, yet intense, powerful and exciting. The high alcohol (14.5%) is completely integrated, as is the richness from oak fermentation and ageing. Its price tag (c.£60), I would argue, is justified, as it more than competes with White Burgundy at the same level and would blow a few out of the water. The French drink old Meursault with cheese after dinner: I would drink this. Top notch stuff.