A Couple Of Kiwis

Before I got myself caught up in a busy semester at University I had been planning on writing one last piece on my trip to California, namely on Paul Hobbs, whose Chardonnay I loved back in February (A Spectacular Chardonnay - and still do). However, I will write up the reds I tasted there in an upcoming post once I have re-tasted a few that weighed down my suitcase on my return flight. Now I will give a little recommendation or two for those of you stuck for New Year's gifts, or a nice bottle for that last family dinner before a return to work. 

The wines I have tasted recently are from New Zealand: an area that has fascinated me in the last 6 months, while working as the Sommelier of the Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews. The reason for this interest stems from the fact that a Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc that I was pouring was the best selling wine at the restaurant. I thought I should delve more into the country. 

Known (sometimes unfairly) popularly just for Marlborough's Sauvignon, New Zealand is a relatively young wine-growing country, but one that is rapidly expanding with a great deal of passion and pride in quality. For my Christmas dinner this year I decided to opt for solely Kiwi wines and made a point to get wines that I had never had before and that were not what one would normally expect from the country. With roast lamb I chose a Unison Syrah (06) from the Hawke's Bay region which ended up being an outstanding match for both the meat and the following spiced butterscotch toffee pudding. With cheeses, I opted for a sweeter 08 Neudorf Riesling from Nelson with 47g/l of residual sugar (which equates it roughly with high quality Spaetlese Riesling from Germany). 

The Syrah is produced in the Gimblett Gravels area of Hawke's Bay, which is 800 hectares of the best irrigated, shingled and most fertile soils in the region, known for its outstanding quality. It presented with quite a subdued nose at first, but with a little time open it was an impressively opulent yet fresh bouquet of ripe fruits that came forward. A silky smooth palate was complemented with a continuation of bold fruits into a balanced, calm tannic finish. The finish itself moved from fruit to spices and I was left with a lengthy and warm taste of cloves and pepper that did not overpower the fruit of moments before. 

The Riesling is their 'Moutere' bottling, meaning the grapes come solely from vines in the Moutere Hills in Nelson, known for their quality. The vineyard itself was named Winery of the Year 2012 by Raymond Chan Reviews recently and judging by the Riesling, it was deserved. The nose gives off a cool florality that is matched on the palate by an almost wet vegetal nature that I have come to associate with many Kiwi Rieslings. The residual sugar is beautifully matched with a cleansing acidity and hint of petillance that reminds me of much pricier Mosel wines. A strong tropicality with the slightest touch of greenery binds it all together into a long-lasting and impressive mouthful. 

Looking into New Zealand's wines over the last 6 months or so has opened my eyes to a wide variety of grapes and styles, and these two particular wines reinforced that, without question. There are many more surprises to come, I'm sure, with a rising production of Gewuertztraminer and Pinot Gris, and continuing emphasis on high-quality Chardonnay in Gisborne, as well as elsewhere. In short there are fantastic wines to be found. If any readers are from the Oxfordshire area, these particular wines were purchased from Wine Bear, a fantastic new shop in Chipping Norton, each for around £13-17.

Wine Tourism

     Following my tasting at Chateau Montelena, which was eye-opening to say the least, we drove up and down Hwy 29 without any plans, popping in to the vineyards which I recognised, which looked good, and one or two others randomly. That is the beauty of Napa - it is geared for tourism: everything is within reach, which is perfect for those (like me) who begin to feel the effects of multiple tastings quickly despite asking for a spittoon at every winery. On that day we visited Grgich Hills Estate, Alpha and Omega, Pride Mountain Vineyards and Heitz Cellars, trying anything and everything we could: with grapes ranging from the usual (Napa Cab) to the unusual ('Port', dessert Gewuertztraminer, Viognier). 

     I was extremely impressed with Grgich Hills, which I had served a few years ago as a waiter in Lake Tahoe, and had seen once or twice in the UK. Their Chardonnay was mildly oaked and seemed to focus its attention on a complex blend of passion fruit, lemon zest and touches of tropicality. Lower in alcohol than many Napa Chardonnays, it was certainly one to remember. The stand-out from this vineyard, however, was something I was not expecting to come across - a late harvest blend of Gewuertztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc which they had named 'Violetta'. It had an amazingly intense nose which reminded me of a Mosel Spaetlese, with plenty of apricot and cherry blossom. It carried a touch of acidity to the back of the palate which balanced out the deep sweetness quite well. Despite its price ($85) it was a very interesting dessert wine. 

  Heitz Cellars was one that caught my eye on the drive in, and is a vineyard that I have bought from in the UK before. We pulled in and were welcomed by a very knowledgable man who knew exactly who I had bought it from just months before. He showed us their extensive range of boutique Cabernet Sauvignons ranging from $60 to upwards of $150 per bottle. All were very heavily oaked (3 and a half years), powerful and bright, with notes of cherry and eucalyptus running through. The star here was a 2000 'Martha's Vineyard' which was opened specially for us, and did not disappoint! 

Less exciting was a trip to the relatively new Alpha and Omega, which for some reason has a great reputation in the US. This was lost on me though as the Cabernets we tried were incredibly young, nowhere near ready and rather acidic. They said they were making them in the Pomerol style, but what was produced was not plush and exuberant, but rather sharp. From there, however, we were given a tip to drive out to Pride Mountain Vineyards north of Calistoga about 30 minutes, and this was definitely worth the trip! 

     Pride straddles the border between Napa and Sonoma counties, so all their grapes are weighed and categorised as soon as they are picked so each bottle can describe the percentage from each county each wine contains. They are renowned for their Viognier which was described to me by a rival winemaker as "the best outside of Condrieu", and has been served at the White House Christmas Dinner 9 years running. It lived up to expectations: even the 2011 was fantastically developed, showing an amazingly floral nose and a palate that wasn't too oily, with dancing fresh acidity all the way through. The finish was lengthy and luscious, while maintaining an impressive composure of jasmine, peach and lychee. Another feature of Californian wines that Pride have managed to integrate extremely well is the high alcohol content: this particular wine was listed officially at 14.2%, but that was not at all noticeable. 

     All in all, it was a day packed full of a vast array of styles and grapes, but one that I will never forget. The variety in Napa is astounding, and I'm sure I will be trying to map it out for many, many years to come.  

Chateau Montelena

For the first of 3 posts about tasting in Napa Valley I will focus on just one winery. Chateau Montelena was the first place I had a reserved tasting and is situated in the north of Napa Valley in the small town of Calistoga. It is a beautiful place with a stone chateau nestled in the side of the hills covered in trees. The left side has been renovated to accommodate the tourists which now bring so much revenue in the area. I was brought to a private room where 6 glasses were lined up ready to go. 

I was led through the tasting by a girl who was extremely passionate about the place. First was their Potter Valley Riesling which is made in a traditional German style - an ode to the founder of the Chateau who was himself German and a great fan of the grape. It was off-dry, yet wonderfully balanced without the flabbiness and sticky nature of many Napa Rieslings. Being a big fan of Riesling made in this style, I really enjoyed this wine - perfect for fresh seafood, or asian dishes. From there I was given the 2009 Chardonnay. The Chardonnay here has been very well-known since the Judgement of Paris in the 70s, and especially since the recognition in the movie Bottleshock. The tasting did not disappoint - it was a spectacular wine that was subtle yet powerful from nose to the back of the palate. Beautiful sugary nuttiness on the finish, with a silky blossom, citrus and tropicality on the palate. It was lengthy and very impressive - definitely one to savour, if given the chance. 

What was apparent though, was that they wished to show off their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. I was then given four vintages of this in a row, from 04, and 06 through 08. The 2004 was sublime - well-rounded, gripping tannins were the feature, with a punchy blackcurrant palate, touches of cedar-wood and an almost minty coolness providing an exciting mouthful. 

The next three vintages were varying in their excellence. They all seemed very young and not sure of their feet quite yet. The 2007 was mediocre despite the perfect growing weather in the season, while the 2008 showed fantastic promise, with very well-integrated alcohol and structure. The star was however the 2006 which had a very impressive fruity palate that took over and lasted for ever, with a silky tannic hold assisting. 

Overall, the Chateau, while catering for tourists, seemed to hold a sense of being solely about the wine. They were very well-made and all incredibly powerful. However, due to relatively small production and costs, it is near impossible to find it over in the UK, a great shame. This does mean though that I am not going to be able to shell out £100 or so per bottle very often. My favourite of the tasting had to be the Chardonnay. It certainly lived up to expectation and at around £40 per bottle it is a steal for those special occasions. If any of you are in the States, it would be worth buying one or two.

Napa Valley

Over this busy summer I have been working at the Seafood Restaurant with their wine list, but towards the end I was allowed to escape for a couple weeks and managed to get over to the USA where my family is from. I snuck away for a couple days and visited Napa Valley - somewhere that has always appealed to my love of American wine and culture. It did not disappoint. This first post about Napa is more a general impression of the area, while later ones will detail tastings and recommendations. 

I was travelling with my flatmate in St Andrews, and although he isn't quite as in to wine as me, he was open to try it, and did not feel left out. This seemed to be the theme of the Valley: openness to any level of appreciation. He was always made to feel welcome at all the vineyards, whether they were talking to me about the length of oak ageing, or pouring us tastes of new vintages. 

We drove in from the South and immediately drove North along Hwy 29 all the way up to Calistoga, to be ready to taste at 10am at Chateau Montelena, of Bottleshock fame. The climate in the summer is hot - around 28 degrees - and cool in the evening, with little to no chance of rain. It was an idyllic setting to drive towards. The Valley itself is relatively contained, and Hwy 29 is only paralleled by one other road, meaning that everything is right there and easily reached. We were bombarded by signs advertising tastings from 10am until 5pm every day, offers such as 'Crazy Good Cabernets' and 'The Wine is Bottled Poetry' and much more. We had booked just the one tasting in advance, with the intention of popping in wherever took our fancy afterwards, and in retrospect this was the best way to do it. Driving along the Highway I saw a few vineyards from whom I had recently bought, and it was great to be able to decide to pull up unannounced and be welcomed for a selection to try without pre-booking, as one would surely have to do in Europe. 

The impression I was given about wine-making in Napa was that it was unrestricted and all about passion. One wine-maker I was talking to said that he had given up a career in France to work in California because of the lack of restrictions on grape variety, length of ageing, materials you can use - the list goes on. For him, the Californian wine industry was all about what you wanted to do, if you made good wine, well done, otherwise you wouldn't sell it! The soil and climate is so suited to viticulture, that with that passion, it is possible to produce fantastic wine. The vast majority of what we tried was fantastic, and if not, it was at least interesting, off the wall or something I had never before thought of trying. 

Napa was, for want of a better word, alive and a place I would without doubt live and work. If one doesn't want to live and work there, one leaves. It seems to be as simple as that. As a result, everyone, down to those working part time in the tasting rooms pouring wine for tourists, loved what they were doing and that was a very impressive and likeable trait. 

Keep your eyes peeled for a series of write-ups of a selection of the vineyards I visited - they are without doubt worth watching out for.

Champagne: Pol Roger

I was lucky enough last week to visit Pol Roger in Epernay, Champagne. Champagne is a drink that I have always had in the back of my mind as something nice to drink in celebration, but had never really considered it properly until this visit. Following this trip, my opinion has completely changed. 

Pol Roger is one of the smaller houses and, as a result of this, focuses its energy on producing lower yields of exceptional quality. It uses only the first press of the grapes it harvests by hand (think of extra virgin olive oil as a parallel), and following fermentation in metal vats and blending into a Pinot-dominated mix, the wine is aged in bottle, cared for by hand by a dedicated and meticulously trained group of cellar hands. The Non-Vintage is aged for up to 3 years from the picking of the grapes, while the Vintage up to 10 or more. This produces a sublimely developed and complex wine that one can tell everyone at the Maison is extremely proud of. 

For the first part of the visit we were treated to a tour of the cellars, local vineyards around Epernay and of the surrounding area. The highlight for me was a tasting before we left, during which we tried the component parts that are later blended by a panel consisting of the Chef de Caves, members of the family and others. As the bubbles in Champagne are achieved by bottle-ageing the wine and trapping the gas within the wine, the pre-blended wines are still. The Chardonnay produced sharp acidity with intense citrus, while the Pinot Noir was more full-bodied. Pinot Meunier added depth and an intense red berry character. 

After the wine has been blended and aged for the appropriate time, the sediment is removed from the top of the bottle and a dash of a sugar liqueur is added to make up the final product. It is left a further 6 months or so to fully integrate before being released and shipped to various corners of the world. 

Pol Roger makes three Non-Vintage wines and four Vintage, and all were outstanding and worth trying. The Non-Vintage are a 'Pure', 'Brut' and 'Rich'. The Pure has no sugar liqueur added, so is a bone-dry wine suited best for food, rather than as an aperitif, such as oysters and other shellfish. It gives a healthy punch of acidity and shows off the blending process bringing notes of light spices, green apple and a deep minerality. The Brut, with roughly equal parts of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and a dash of the sugar liqueur dosage brings more of a nutiness and presents with apricots and a floral palate. The Rich is a dessert Champagne and was my personal favourite. The sugar content is increased to 34 grams per litre and the wine gives honey aromas with a refreshing acidity and minerality on the finish, making it very well-rounded and perfect for accompanying fruit cakes and tarts. 

The Vintage wines produced at the moment are the Brut, Rose, Blanc de Blancs and Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill. Just released was the Brut 2002 - with no Pinot Meunier and more Pinot Noir than Chardonnay. It is a wine with great depth and body and an intense gold colour. The Rose 2004 surprised me somewhat as I am generally not a fan of Rose Champagne. This one gave notes of muscovado sugar and stewed fruit and with a touch of sugar dosage it is perfect with light desserts. The Blanc de Blancs (as the name suggests) is purely Chardonnay. Being an admirer of Pol Roger's commitment to Pinot Noir, I was skeptical about this wine, however following the first sip I was convinced otherwise. The 2000 was light and fine with notes of brioche and almond I was not expecting, along with a lengthy dry finish - perfect for seafood or as a special occasion aperitif. Last but certainly not least is their 'flagship', if you will. The Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill is made only when the harvest and growing has been exceptional, and at no other time. It is a heavily Pinot Noir-dominated blend of roughly 70 or 80%, made to what the Maison believe our ex-Prime Minister would have enjoyed (he was a devoted customer of Pol Roger himself). The 1999 at around 125 pounds per bottle is not cheap, but is something to behold. All the grapes are from Grand Cru vineyards and produce a stunning wine with decades left in the bottle to improve. Currently it shows a deep complexity and nuttiness with stone fruits, almond and a floral, berried nose. 

Pol Roger were fantastic hosts and have certainly convinced me of their philosophy of quality over quantity. Any of their seven cuvees are worth trying, and all are brilliant food wines as well as on their own. Do give them a go. 

What To Do With Viogner

Viogner is a grape that I had not really paid much attention to until about 2 months ago when it appeared as a subject at a blind tasting and it was all we drank that day. It is certainly one that I pay heed to now: the blend of dried fruit and spices and the intensity it delivers is something to marvel at. Generally one thinks of the Rhone Valley in France when Viogner is mentioned and that is where I'll start. There it can be made as a single varietal wine, as in Condieu where it can command premium prices, or as part of a blend - sometimes in red wines for freshness and aroma, sometimes in whites.

www.winereport.com.br

On the whole these regions lend themselves to very impressive wines that are extremely food-friendly, if a little expensive. As the area is very hot and Viognier ripens relatively quickly, there is a fine balance to attain when harvesting to ensure the right amount of sugar and development. They are generally quite light on the nose, with hints of sweet white fruit, herbs and white pepper. The palate is long, slightly sticky, with notes of peach, licourice and heavy peppery spices, as well as an intense minerality gained from the soil that is a marker of its quality. These, coupled together with a herb and spice-crusted rack of lamb dish, or even a moderately spiced curry, would be a match to remember. 

To the south of the Rhone Valley is the Languedoc region. This area of France has a slightly different strain of the Viognier grape which is more prominent across the New World, yet does quite well in the hot, arid landscape to the south. Generally the New World strain of Viognier gives notes of apricot and honeysuckle. This with the lack of minerality distinguishes the two. A perfect example of a Languedoc Viognier is Baron Phlipe de Rothschild's which is priced at around 8-10 pounds per bottle. A rich mellow nose leads into a high alcohol yet complex palate with honeysuckle, apricot, peach and a spicey finish. All in all, a wine of impressive structure for the price.

Moving further away from Viognier's homeland as it were, Australia has been planting a vast amount, especially in the Eden Valley. As one would expect, the style is much more aggressive, full-on and powerful. A great example and a wine very much worth trying, with or without food, is Yalumba's Eden Valley Viognier, for around 15 pounds. It smells strongly of toasted sesame seeds and the alcohol which makes up 14.5% (rare in a white wine of any varietal) is well integrated. The palate is deeply nutty and layered with stone fruits such as apricots, dried mangoes and touches of citrus peel. With a rounding spicy finish to bind the whole thing together, it would be perfect with spicy lamb, anything seasoned well with rosemary, or to be a bit different, perhaps  a sweet seafood meat, such as crab. 

In short Viognier is an interesting grape that is now yielding much more than the expensive classics of the Rhone Valley. It is a legitimate way to explore pairing spicier foods with wines and most of the time, it works. The structure, spice, and fruit has traveled well around the New World, especially in Australia: it is definitely a grape to explore. 

California: A Wine-lover's Paradise

This is an article I wrote for OwlEyes Magazine, a student-run online culture magazine at the University of St Andrews where I study: www.owleyesmagazine.com

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California. Aside from conjuring up images of surfers, boardwalks, Hollywood signs and more, the state also brings up pictures of fertile land: oranges, peaches and most importantly grapes grow extremely well. Californian wine has been steadily developing itself to a near-Old World status in terms of perception and actual quality of wine ever since the great revival of the 1960s. Big names such as Robert Mondavi, Christian Moueix, Ridge and Stag's Leap have come to be known to produce some of the world's premier bottles, while the regions are household names: Napa and Sonoma Valleys, the Russian River Valley and Santa Barbara County to name but a few.

Californian wine brings more to a dinner or an evening than any other wine I have ever come across. In general the style has been starting to become more and more like the Old World quality due to the aging of the vines (the first being planted back in the 18^th Century by Spanish Missionaries), but the distinguishing characteristics still remain. California produces intensely fruity, strong wines which always excite. With a climate that is warmer than that of France, in general, but with the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean so close to the vines, a unique blend of intense ripeness and New World exuberance with old vines can be produced.

Anyone looking to impress someone who is interested in wine should always, in my opinion, go Californian. It is possible to find spectacular wines for any budget, each as impressive as the next. Here are a few pointers, and my most memorable Californian bottles:

• Wild Boy Chardonnay, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Barbara County –

Hennings Merchants

This is a wine I have had on numerous occasions as an alternative to spending money on something of the same grape from Burgundy. The wine-maker Jim Clendenen (who gives his name to the title...) is very fond of the Old World style and it shows in this base cuvee. The winery is based in and around Santa Barbara County which is towards the south of the state. It is thus a very warm climate and it shows. The alcohol content is relatively high at 13.5%, but this doesn't matter as the intensity of the fruit (lychee mostly) balances this very well, as does the thick vanilla from the oak aging. It is fresh without food, but comes alive with a bird of some sort: I most recently enjoyed one with roast pheasant and the flavours burst out with impressive intensity. 10-15ppb.

• Pinot Noir, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Maria Valley –

One of my favourite wines, this is the wine that started my fascination with California, and with Pinot Noir. For the price it is exceptionally well-balanced, structured and has more depth than one would find in many Burgundies of the same price bracket. Made by the same vintner as the Wild Boy it shows similar characteristics, in that the alcohol is blended perfectly into the fruit. On the nose there is the dust farmyard one would expect from Pinot Noir, while the palate is a delicious blend of blackcurrant and blackberry: not acidic, and not jammy. It produces a lengthy and healthy finish that would be perfectly suited to duck dishes. 15-20ppb.

• Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs –

An absolute classic, and a purely Californian grape. Normally Zinfandel can be overdone, too alcoholic, too spicy, too jammy, too intense. This is not the case here: Ridge's vineyard at Lytton Springs in Northern California a few hours north of San Francisco have cultivated a spectacular wine in this, and one that can be aged also. I have tried both the 2007 and the 2008, and they are truly remarkable. Deep dark fruits and peppery spices dominate the nose, while sweeter blueberry notes penetrate the palate. Gripping and intense tannins lengthen the finish and mean that it is more than a worthy substitute for a wine of Bordeaux stature and must be paired with beef. 25-35ppb.

A Spectacular Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2008

This is a wine that I have wanted to try for quite some time, since noticing it on the list at the restaurant where I work. Last night I got the chance, and it was worth every penny. I struggle to remember a white wine that has stunned me in such a way.

As someone who has ‘grown up’, as it were, on classic French Bordeaux and Burgundy, I have always been slightly sceptical of New World wines, and often discounted them (as I have mentioned in my previous post about Chile). However, this means that when I do come across something truly spectacular from the New World I feel I am more receptive of it: this is the case with the Paul Hobbs.

The 2008 Chardonnay saw a slightly troubled start to the growing season, which then exploded into a brilliant warm and stable summer, typical of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. The weather produced a well-defined and ripe crop which then responded very well to a year’s aging in 48% brand new French oak barrels. It was then bottled in January 2010 ready to be shipped out to be sold.

As soon as the bottle was opened the immediate area was filled with a luscious fruity sweetness and I knew it was going to be a bottle to remember. Once poured, it had a deep straw hue to it, with a sophisticated viscosity that suggested a high quality. On the nose, it presented with a hint of orange and pear, backed up generously by a thick oaky vanilla. On the palate the first impression it gave was a deeply developed honey with touches of butter. In terms of fruit, intense mango, pineapple and ripe apples are all evident, blended expertly with the richness from the oak and malolactic fermentation. The high alcohol content (14.5%) is not at all sharp and the wine does not appear ‘boozey’ in any way, which shows excellent craftsmanship. A lengthy finish with ever-developing textures of the oak makes for a truly enjoyable sip.

All in all, it is made with a strikingly Old World-style complexity: the balance and structure is never uneven, while all the flavours are impressively well-integrated. Available for around £30-40 it is not the cheapest wine around, but for a special occasion or the experience it is more than worth it. A true marvel from one of the most renowned New World regions.

Pictures from Paul Hobbs Winery website

Chile: One To Explore

For this post I am going to focus on some wines of Chile that I have recently tried and been very surprised with. Most of you I imagine, just as I did until last week, have a preconception that Chile produces cheap, not so high end, mass produced wine. To some extent this can be true. However, just the same can be said for California, South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and others, if one looks in the wrong place. I took some convincing it must be said, growing to enjoy wine by being taught on Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Mosel and Ridge Vineyards. 

Many winemakers in the New World are striving harder and harder to produce wine that emulates the Old World style of balance, depth, structure and perfect harmony of flavours and Casa Lapostolle are no different. My work recently at the Seafood Restaurant St Andrews has allowed me to taste a great variety of New World gems such as their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, which had me guessing blind that it was of high end Californian origin. The nose is met with an intense ripe blackcurrant, while the palate develops into an amalgam of cedar wood, loose tea and cherries. The smooth yet feisty tannins round off what has been one of the most shocking wines I've tasted recently. It is from the Colchagua Valley to the south of the Chilean capital of Santiago. The valley is known for its dry heat, yet in this particular wine although it is clearly from the new world, the heat is blended expertly to produce something in no way overpowering. It is attractively priced at between 8 and 12 pounds per bottle and would be excellent paired with any lamb dish.

Picture: Justerini and Brooks

Another Chilean wine that has caught my eye recently is the Palomar Estate Merlot, also from the Colchagua Valley. What impresses me about this wine is that although it is a single variety Merlot (which is quite uncommon due to the grape's richness) it is not overly thick and oppressive. It is from the eastern part of the valley which is slightly cooler, and this helps soften the grape. It still possesses all the characteristics that one would desire from a big New World single varietal. The nose presents with a chocolatey richness and deep ripe blackberries, while the palate gives a viscous woody sweetness with a lengthy gripping finish. At 6.50-9 pounds per bottle it is not one to pass up, and would be delicious with liver and onions, or a classic sunday roast: the bold flavours in both would complement each other and neither would be washed out. 

There are many more Chilean gems that I could describe to you, but the best way to understand is to try for yourselves! Do test out some if you get the chance, there is way more to Chile than the supermarket aisles suggest. 

The Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

Previously in this blog I have tried my hand at a restaurant review (Dinner At The Seafood Restaurant, St Andrews). However, I focused more on the wine pairings I had chosen, rather than the restaurant itself. So, here is my first foray into food criticism.

The Old Parsonage Hotel in Oxford is situated in a fantastic old building about 10 minutes walk from the centre of the city. It is framed in ivy and the front terrace garden makes it a particularly attractive and aesthetically enticing prospect. I have heard about the legendary Cream Teas which they prepare, as well as their outdoor live jazz evenings in the summer. In addition I have visited the other restaurants owned by the same man – the reasonable and fashionable Quod Brasserie and the slightly over-priced, yet inventive Gee's Restaurant – therefore it was high time I gave this one a go.

After being invited warmly to a table, the first thing that impresses me is the cosy feel of the room itself, dotted with framed paintings and characterful fittings. The tables were perhaps a little small, but as it is not a restaurant that serves 5 or more course tasting menus this is not a real problem. In terms of food, the menu seems fresh, mostly seasonal and wide-ranging. I had a razor clam starter served with a small, crisp salad with garlic and parsley breadcrumbs which was beautifully presented in the shells and very well-cooked. My main of roast partridge left a little to be desired in presentation, cooking and thought, which was a shame. The dish was extremely dry (not complemented by the supermarket-esque 'rosti') and it may have been a sous-chef who has not cooked whole game before, but the bird was rather raw on one side and over-cooked on the other. No matter, as the cabbage with jus was extremely good and masked the moisture-less bird. As for my companion there was nothing but praise for the blue cheese and nut salad as well as the risotto.

Pictures from Old Parsonage website, left.

The wine list is not one that expects to be winning any awards, but is absolutely what one would desire from this sort of restaurant. It shows thought with a wide range of countries and grapes from both famed and less well-known producers. A bold move in placing a couple of a merchant's 'own brand' wines on a dinner menu is completely justified as the sommelier has obviously chosen the right merchant in Berry Bros and Rudd. My only slight quibble would be slightly over-priced wine by the glass for what they are, but the usual tendency would be to opt for a bottle with dinner anyway.

Overall the establishment has impressed me – the staff were friendly and knowledgeable, and the menu looks mostly well thought out with a more than decent wine list to complement. I would heartily recommend it to anyone in Oxford with an evening to spare, despite the price nearly edging into the category in which one would look for hints of AA Rosettes. Dinner for two (2 courses) with wine and coffees costs roughly between 80 and 100 pounds.