California: A Wine-lover's Paradise

This is an article I wrote for OwlEyes Magazine, a student-run online culture magazine at the University of St Andrews where I study: www.owleyesmagazine.com

Gordonswine.com

California. Aside from conjuring up images of surfers, boardwalks, Hollywood signs and more, the state also brings up pictures of fertile land: oranges, peaches and most importantly grapes grow extremely well. Californian wine has been steadily developing itself to a near-Old World status in terms of perception and actual quality of wine ever since the great revival of the 1960s. Big names such as Robert Mondavi, Christian Moueix, Ridge and Stag's Leap have come to be known to produce some of the world's premier bottles, while the regions are household names: Napa and Sonoma Valleys, the Russian River Valley and Santa Barbara County to name but a few.

Californian wine brings more to a dinner or an evening than any other wine I have ever come across. In general the style has been starting to become more and more like the Old World quality due to the aging of the vines (the first being planted back in the 18^th Century by Spanish Missionaries), but the distinguishing characteristics still remain. California produces intensely fruity, strong wines which always excite. With a climate that is warmer than that of France, in general, but with the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean so close to the vines, a unique blend of intense ripeness and New World exuberance with old vines can be produced.

Anyone looking to impress someone who is interested in wine should always, in my opinion, go Californian. It is possible to find spectacular wines for any budget, each as impressive as the next. Here are a few pointers, and my most memorable Californian bottles:

• Wild Boy Chardonnay, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Barbara County –

Hennings Merchants

This is a wine I have had on numerous occasions as an alternative to spending money on something of the same grape from Burgundy. The wine-maker Jim Clendenen (who gives his name to the title...) is very fond of the Old World style and it shows in this base cuvee. The winery is based in and around Santa Barbara County which is towards the south of the state. It is thus a very warm climate and it shows. The alcohol content is relatively high at 13.5%, but this doesn't matter as the intensity of the fruit (lychee mostly) balances this very well, as does the thick vanilla from the oak aging. It is fresh without food, but comes alive with a bird of some sort: I most recently enjoyed one with roast pheasant and the flavours burst out with impressive intensity. 10-15ppb.

• Pinot Noir, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Maria Valley –

One of my favourite wines, this is the wine that started my fascination with California, and with Pinot Noir. For the price it is exceptionally well-balanced, structured and has more depth than one would find in many Burgundies of the same price bracket. Made by the same vintner as the Wild Boy it shows similar characteristics, in that the alcohol is blended perfectly into the fruit. On the nose there is the dust farmyard one would expect from Pinot Noir, while the palate is a delicious blend of blackcurrant and blackberry: not acidic, and not jammy. It produces a lengthy and healthy finish that would be perfectly suited to duck dishes. 15-20ppb.

• Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs –

An absolute classic, and a purely Californian grape. Normally Zinfandel can be overdone, too alcoholic, too spicy, too jammy, too intense. This is not the case here: Ridge's vineyard at Lytton Springs in Northern California a few hours north of San Francisco have cultivated a spectacular wine in this, and one that can be aged also. I have tried both the 2007 and the 2008, and they are truly remarkable. Deep dark fruits and peppery spices dominate the nose, while sweeter blueberry notes penetrate the palate. Gripping and intense tannins lengthen the finish and mean that it is more than a worthy substitute for a wine of Bordeaux stature and must be paired with beef. 25-35ppb.