Traditional Christmas

After having seen for sale a bottle of non-vintage "Christmas Red Merlot" recently, I thought it would be a good idea to write about traditional pairings for a tradition-steeped day. If this type of Christmas is not your traditional one, I do apologise, but it has been mine for most of my life! I aim here not to direct anyone to particular bottles, but to general regions and grapes - as everyone's cooking will no doubt differ. 

As I'm sure many will agree, we can disregard breakfast as a chance to pair a wine for obvious reasons. The next meal at which I can see the cracking of a bottle would surely be during the Queen's Christmas Message in the early afternoon, when the main meal is starting to get under way. I have always had smoked salmon with lemon and some form of sparkling wine to toast at the end. I would always suggest the complexity and dryness of a Champagne, as it binds so deliciously with the oily, smokey fish and the sharp acidic lemon. There are some pitfalls with champagne - such as spending one's money on a bottle of Veuve Clicquot or Moet et Chandon, when near exactly the same money could buy Laurent Perrier, Pol Roger or even a Bollinger - so beware of mass-production! 

In my household we have never had Christmas dinner divided into courses as such, more a multitude of dishes laid all over the dining table with everyone being then invited to dig in. In that respect it is difficult to fit in a nice white without it being over-powered by the roast. Therefore I would always have a nice bottle of dry Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc as an aperitif on the go while waiting for the main event. As for regions, I personally would always go with an Alsatian Riesling or a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Call me traditionalist, but when there is no food to match I still feel they are the best crisp, fresh wines to drink. 

Christmas dinner food always changes, but it is most likely safe to say that usually a turkey, goose or duck appears somewhere, along with roast potatoes, bread and cranberry sauces, parsnips, carrots and brussels sprouts. With this array of robust and expressive flavours, the wine is crucial. In my opinion the perfect accompaniment would be a Burgundy (or a very good New Zealand) Pinot Noir. The flowery and aromatic style mixes very well with the light and dark meat of poultry and the jammy, ripe, fruitiness blends expertly with the sweetness of the sauces and vegetables. Typically well-suited regions I would recommend would be the Cote-de-Beaune in France, or Central Otago in New Zealand. 

As everyone I would hope is having a good time, my guess would be that the wine would not necessarily last too long. To mix things up a little, I would suggest to follow something heavier - to last into the serving of the Christmas pudding. For this, my recommendation would be for a good Bordeaux or a big, heavy Californian Grenache/Syrah blend. Both of these styles would work well towards the end of a Christmas dinner: the velvety, deep red berry texture of the Bordeaux would work with near any meal of substance, especially if any form of pork adorns the plate. A Californian Grenache/Syrah would lend a spicy, punchy note to the meal which would bind extremely well with the thick spiced Christmas pudding. Although both the wine and the pudding would be very high in alcohol, neither would be overpowering due to the mixing of spices and aggressive fruit flavours. 

By this time I am usually quite full and in need of a rest in front of the fire. There is, however, time for one last meal, and that means one last drink. In the evening with mince pies and Christmas cake the truly traditional accompaniment may be to some a sticky sweet Sauternes or Tokaji. My suggestions would be for either a Calvados (for those with a sweet tooth), or a nice Whisky. Something without too much saltiness and not too weak is the order - either a Highland or an Islay Single Malt would be perfect, giving a smokiness and a depth to the end of the evening. 

I hope this has put a few ideas in people's minds - and I wish everyone a Merry Christmas! 

Christmas Presents

Having a bit of a delay between posts has worked out quite well, as now that it is truly advent I feel I can legitimately write about potential Christmas gift ideas. Bordeaux and Burgundy aside, I have chosen three wines which I think are interesting, a bit off the wall and above all, great value for money.

The first is sometimes a bit hit and miss when it comes to different vintages, but one that is, in my opinion, one of the best substitutes for a Burgundy that can be found. It is a South African Hamilton Russell Chardonnay. Try if you can to get 2007/8/9, as they are the best expressions of the wine. The vineyard is situated in the far south next to the sea in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation and enjoys a terroir and climate strikingly similar to that of Burgundy in France. The normal South African grapes are not found here, such as Chenin or Sauvignon and the Estate grows only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The soil is full of clay and shale and this lends an intense depth and minerality to the wine. I have tried the 2009 most recently and it is a deep gold colour, despite it's youth. The nose is much more elegant than one would expect from a South African wine and gives hints of lemon and lime, as well as white fruits and a hint of creamy honey that distinguishes it as a Chardonnay. The palate is extremely full-bodied and really shows its Old World style - there is no aggressive sweetness or any overdone flavours: just a fresh and lengthy finish of butter and low acidity. As a whole it is stunning value for money and would add to a great variety of foods. The price per bottle ranges from 22-28 pounds and should be available in most bottle shops. 

The second wine would be an appreciated gift for anyone who has a small cellar or any interest in wine - it is not what one would expect at all. It is Charles Smith's 'Velvet Devil' Merlot from Washington State. Mainly interesting for the simple reason that good Washington wine is extremely underrated. I have tried the 2008 and it literally does what it says on the tin: the tannins are extremely soft and barely noticeable, the flavours are plush, soft and inviting and there is just the slightest hint of spice at the finish. Not one to save for a special occasion, but certainly worth a try - it is an off the wall gift wine. It is available for around 18-20 pounds per bottle from bottle shops. 

The last wine I would suggest as a gift is a Californian Pinot Noir, and one that is simply excellent value for money. Au Bon Climat's Santa Maria is a delicate, elegant and developed wine that would be appreciated by anyone. It is distinctly Californian - the heat shows through in the ripeness and full flavours throughout from the nose to the finish. There are notes of rich leather and a dusty farmyard blended expertly with ripe red fruits and a hint of jammy sweetness on the lengthy well-balanced finish. Interestingly the wine develops with some time open, unusual for a Pinot Noir, but for this one it works. The flowery fruity nose becomes more pronounced and a new complexity is gained on the palate. The wine maker Jim Clendenen describes it as lush, fragrant and bursting with berries, which is exactly what it is. It is attractively priced at between 15-20 pounds per bottle. 

I hope this gives you some ideas for gifts if wine was an option - happy buying!