Monday 27 May 2013

Chateau Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, 2006

This was a real treat - a 2006 Cheval Blanc. I tasted this at Hedonism Wines in London as it was featured in their tasting bar in the basement and I couldn't resist. I am very slowly adding to my repertoire of the top Bordeaux Chateaux...

Appearance: Although the room was mood-lit to a low level, the wine was clearly bright and full-bodied, with touches of pink on the edges and a deep, inviting purpler colour.

Nose: The smells were rather subdued, yet clearly very powerful. There were hints of rich, dark chocolate, cedar and spiced plums. Relatively high acidity hints that it could age for a while yet.

Palate: The palate showed and impressive depth and character to the wine, with a real structure to it. A savoury mid-palate led to a burst of cherry, with a quince jelly finish aided by powerful tannins. 

Rating: From a year that was hit-and-miss on the Right Bank, the Cheval shows an amazing strength and depth. The wine-maker clearly successfully dodged the rains and produced a fantastic wine that will get better for quite a few more years. What a privilege to try one! 9/10

Tuesday 14 May 2013

Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, USA, 2010

Another wine on the list at the restaurant, I've wanted to try this Napa Sauvignon for a while. I luckily got the chance a couple of days ago and it was definitely an eye-opener. A cool year, the 2010 vintage made especially crisp, green wine: this one is no different. It is Cakebread's process that makes this wine so interesting. As well as Sauvignon Blanc, small amounts of Semillon and Sauvignon Musque are added, for a bit of weight and structure, as well as floral notes. Just over 10% of the grape juice was fermented in oak barrels, while nearly 90% of the wine produced was then aged in French oak for 5 months. 

Appearance: The wine is very pale, with a slight hint of green to the edges and a robust body to it.

Nose: The first few smells are very intense - gooseberry, lemon zest and grapefruit mostly. There are touches of blossom and soft spices in the background, while crisp acidity is clear.

Palate: The front of the palate is very cool and crisp, almost leafy. It then bursts into a richness of melon and gooseberry, with an almost creamy, heavier texture from the oak. This is all then carried through by the zingy citric acidity to a powerful finish.

Rating: There is a lot going on in this wine. It has classic Sauvignon flavours, with a common blending grape added (Semillon), but also packs a serious punch. The complexity and weighty texture gained from the oak juxtaposed with the ripe acidic wine calls out for it to be drunk with food, which is when it will come into its own. By itself, it is a marvel to pick apart. 8.5/10  


Sunday 12 May 2013

The Crusher Viognier, Wilson Vineyard, Clarksburg, CA, USA, 2011

This amazing new wine on the Seafood Restaurant list has surprised all who work there. It is from the little-known Clarksburg AVA, situated just to the East of Napa Valley. The soils are flat and fertile with plenty of clay and silt deposits, with fog and cooling breezes from San Francisco Bay blowing inland from the West. The vineyard's Petit Syrah is a marvel also.

Appearance: Unlike most Viogniers, The Crusher does not appear to be too thick and oily in the glass. It has a soft straw colour, with a hint of green to it that suggests youth and freshness.

Nose: The nose is bright, clean and very vegetal. Unripe apricots develop into notes of white peach and honeysuckle, while fresh grass and herbs make for an altogether fragrant wine.

Palate: The palate is weightier than the nose might suggest, but is not overpowering. It begins with a ripe peach sweetness that is supplemented by a poached pear and tropical fruit mid-palate. The finish brings in a green chilli pepper spice and a slight oiliness with a balanced and rounding acidity. It isn't the lengthiest wine I've tried, but certainly is powerful.

Rating: This wine is beautiful in youth. I'm not sure how well it would fare with much age, as much of the appeal is the freshness and clear-cut flavours at each step. There is enough weight and richness to pair with strong foods from scallops to spiced pork, while the acidity and lightness will keep you coming back for more. A fantastic, great value for money, American Viognier. 8.7/10

Sunday 5 May 2013

Chateau Martinens, Margaux, Bordeaux, 2007

As the University Wine Tasting Team prepare for the last competition of the year in a few weeks' time, I thought I would share with you a couple of the wines we have been testing ourselves on! This Cru Bourgeois Margaux was delicious - certainly a nice treat on a Saturday afternoon... Anyone living in St Andrews can purchase this at St Andrews Wine Co. on Bell St.

Appearance: In the glass the wine appears at first glance to be a little older than 2007, with a brick orange hue to the edges, and a lighter garnet centre.

Nose: The complexity and development of this wine was quite amazing: every time I try a Margaux I am always drawn back to believing Bordeaux to be the world's top region for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Here it presents with a strong yet delicate nose of dark leather, cocoa, with a blueberry sweetness to it.

Palate: A plush chocolatey thickness gives way to a lighter stoney minerality and cleanliness on the finish, which is lengthy and very well structured. A slight hint of orange zest is notable, as well as delicate, soft spices and supple tannins.

Rating: All in all, I wish more Bordeaux could be like this. Elegant and refined, perfumed and delicate, yet with all the power and strength for its complex characteristics to show through. It is very well balanced and extremely drinkable. 9/10

Saturday 4 May 2013

Pinot d'Alsace Metiss, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace, 2009

This is an interesting blend from the Alsace region of France. It is made from predominantly Pinot Gris, but contains others in the Pinot family, like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Auxerrois. Made by Domaine Bott-Geyl, a biodynamic enterprise in Beblenheim.

Appearance: It has an inviting deep, dark gold colour, with a hint of green freshness about the edges.

Nose: It starts with amazingly fresh, clean green apples, and moves to a complex stoney minerality. It is packed with ripeness when opened in the glass, leading on to touches of honey and pear.

Palate: As is typical with many Alsatian wines, it is very dry, yet still has a ripe fruits and a full body to it. The front palate is all about the pear and apple acidity, but it then moves to a more delicate array of cloves, crystallised ginger. The finish is held together by a lengthy minerality, that leaves a pleasant warmth.

Rating: All in all, a fantastic wine for the price (c.£11). Very well-rounded, full-bodied, yet fresh. It certainly does better with food, but even without it the complexity will keep you impressed. Excellent balance of spice with acidity and weight. 8/10