Gusbourne Estate Sparkling Rose, Kent, England, 2009

English sparkling wine is clearly going from strength to strength and although the prices are rising a little from what they were a few years ago, the increase in quality is far higher. The estate in Kent enjoys south-facing slopes for the vines, very little wind and crisp, cold winters - perfect for wines made in the traditional methode champenoise.

Appearance: Pure, fine bubbles rise invitingly, with a medium salmon pink tint to the wine. 

Nose: There is plenty of acidity, as well as a delicate array of fine brown sugar, ripe strawberries and bramble leaf.

Palate: The acidity certainly carries through to the palate, yet is balanced by a stout body and rich, structured blend of raspberry and fresh cherry. A crisp, dry finish leaves an elegant taste in the mouth, with hints of currants and rhubarb.

Rating: I first tried Gusbourne's Brut two years ago when they were on the 2006 and loved it immediately. The Rose is a joy: high quality winemaking and clearly excellent grapes make for a delicious drop. Being a minimum of around £10 less than any of the big name Rose Champagnes only adds to its appeal. 9/10

Both were tasted at the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford - anyone nearby should definitely make the trip for a bottle. It has also now been picked up as a house wine at Selfridges.

The Left Bank: Feeling Wine

The final competition of the Tasting Team calendar is the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, the first round of which is hosted by the Commanderie du Bontemps in London. Other first round matches are held in France, USA and China with the top two teams progressing to the final in Bordeaux. Though St Andrews did not make the final, I was enlightened by the experience and, of course, the practise. In the weeks running up to the competition we tasted all we could from the Left Bank, from Médoc and Haut-Médoc to St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux, down to Pessac-Léognan and Graves. There was even a set of questions on Sauternes and Barsac. While the sweet wine was delicious, it was the reds that fascinated me. 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

We were training to be able to pick out the regions and communes, as well as the vintages of wines we were given. Initially I felt very daunted by the prospect. Before this, I had been rather taken with New World opulence, such as can be found in Californian Cabernets, and had not been tasting many French wines. I went in expecting to have to learn specific flavour, body and character differences for each village, yet when we began trying to break down each wine we tried, I realised how subjective and general much of this was. There was an astonishing level of depth and flavour for everything we tried - so much so that after a while, my tasting notes began to look more and more like a rather strange shopping list. On one particular comparison between a St-Julien and a Pauillac everything from mushrooms, tobacco, cassis, new leather shoes, cocoa and coffee to bell peppers, cumin, rubber, mint and strawberries appeared at some point.

Taking a step back, I looked to the basic composition of each commune and my initial first impressions of each wine. Rather than trying to come up with a formula, I decided to go on particular characteristics that seemed to jump out when I tasted each one for the first time. The first thing to know when thinking about the Left Bank is the soil. In the north (Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac) there is much more clay in the soils, which, generally speaking, allows for a thicker, more fertile and fruity wine. Further south, there is more gravel (St-Julien, Margaux and Graves). This allows more drainage and the wines typically show more delicacy and perfume, as well as a more stoney minerality. 

While Bordeaux now is typically much more expensive than many other regions, what I learned from the few weeks of Bordeaux tasting is that there is still something to be said for France's claim to make the best red wine. I will steer clear of agreeing or disagreeing with that statement just yet, though I will say that by working my way down the Left Bank I have a great appreciation for depth and character of the wines. The complexity and harmony of the flavours is unparalleled. When tasting, though it sounds cheesy, try to the feel the differences in the wines: a much better way of appreciating and beginning to understand the differences between the communes. 

Haut-Médoc: Power and thickness are key. One to try is Chateau Cissac.

St-Estèphe: Look for darker notes (tar, coffee, chocolate) and savoury touches. One to try is Chateau Meyney.

Pauillac: Velvety. One to try is Chateau Pontet-Canet.

St-Julien: Lean and woody, look for red fruits. One to try is Clos du Marquis (second label of Léoville-Las Cases).

Margaux: Delicate and perfumed, subtle and herbaceous. One to try is Chateau Martinens.

Graves: Stoney, yet delicate. Supple fruit. One to try is Chateau Peyrat.

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 2006

Though still quite youthful, this was a delicious bottle. A lovely wine from a classic Bordeaux vintage.

Appearance: It showed clarity through the centre, with pink tinges to the edges.

Nose: A very complex nose came through as being quite plummy, along with leather, pencil lead and pine.

Palate: Weighty ripe fruit comes through first, though seems a little subdued. More age is needed to develop these flavours. Coming through was a smokey minerality, with a dark cocoa finish, complemented by strict tannins.

Rating: A smooth and controlled wine, but one that is not quite ready - it will break out with more age to it. That being said, the depth is still very impressive and the acidity a refreshingly balanced accompaniment to the dark fruits. 8.5/10

Chateau Cissac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, 2008

A scrumptious Cru Bourgeois from a mixed vintage. 

Appearance: Deep garnet. A lovely thickness looks inviting.

Nose: There is a slight delicacy to the smell, but its power is unmistakeable. Hints of mint and cedar wood move to wet tobacco, blackcurrant and marzipan.

Palate: A sweet strawberry front-palate moves to a darker, softer mid-palate, with notes of plum and soft oaky spices (cumin, cloves). A touch of bell pepper freshens the finish which is lengthy, though the tannins are a little soft.

Rating: Delicious wine and a reasonable cost (c.£10-14). Its sweetness is not cloying and the palate very well-balanced. A firmer finish is my only wish, but a minor one. 7.5/10

Chateau Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, 2006

This was a real treat - a 2006 Cheval Blanc. I tasted this at Hedonism Wines in London as it was featured in their tasting bar in the basement and I couldn't resist. I am very slowly adding to my repertoire of the top Bordeaux Chateaux...

Appearance: Although the room was mood-lit to a low level, the wine was clearly bright and full-bodied, with touches of pink on the edges and a deep, inviting purpler colour.

Nose: The smells were rather subdued, yet clearly very powerful. There were hints of rich, dark chocolate, cedar and spiced plums. Relatively high acidity hints that it could age for a while yet.

Palate: The palate showed and impressive depth and character to the wine, with a real structure to it. A savoury mid-palate led to a burst of cherry, with a quince jelly finish aided by powerful tannins. 

Rating: From a year that was hit-and-miss on the Right Bank, the Cheval shows an amazing strength and depth. The wine-maker clearly successfully dodged the rains and produced a fantastic wine that will get better for quite a few more years. What a privilege to try one! 9/10

Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, USA, 2010

Another wine on the list at the restaurant, I've wanted to try this Napa Sauvignon for a while. I luckily got the chance a couple of days ago and it was definitely an eye-opener. A cool year, the 2010 vintage made especially crisp, green wine: this one is no different. It is Cakebread's process that makes this wine so interesting. As well as Sauvignon Blanc, small amounts of Semillon and Sauvignon Musque are added, for a bit of weight and structure, as well as floral notes. Just over 10% of the grape juice was fermented in oak barrels, while nearly 90% of the wine produced was then aged in French oak for 5 months. 

Appearance: The wine is very pale, with a slight hint of green to the edges and a robust body to it.

Nose: The first few smells are very intense - gooseberry, lemon zest and grapefruit mostly. There are touches of blossom and soft spices in the background, while crisp acidity is clear.

Palate: The front of the palate is very cool and crisp, almost leafy. It then bursts into a richness of melon and gooseberry, with an almost creamy, heavier texture from the oak. This is all then carried through by the zingy citric acidity to a powerful finish.

Rating: There is a lot going on in this wine. It has classic Sauvignon flavours, with a common blending grape added (Semillon), but also packs a serious punch. The complexity and weighty texture gained from the oak juxtaposed with the ripe acidic wine calls out for it to be drunk with food, which is when it will come into its own. By itself, it is a marvel to pick apart. 8.5/10  

The Crusher Viognier, Wilson Vineyard, Clarksburg, CA, USA, 2011

This amazing new wine on the Seafood Restaurant list has surprised all who work there. It is from the little-known Clarksburg AVA, situated just to the East of Napa Valley. The soils are flat and fertile with plenty of clay and silt deposits, with fog and cooling breezes from San Francisco Bay blowing inland from the West. The vineyard's Petit Syrah is a marvel also.

Appearance: Unlike most Viogniers, The Crusher does not appear to be too thick and oily in the glass. It has a soft straw colour, with a hint of green to it that suggests youth and freshness.

Nose: The nose is bright, clean and very vegetal. Unripe apricots develop into notes of white peach and honeysuckle, while fresh grass and herbs make for an altogether fragrant wine.

Palate: The palate is weightier than the nose might suggest, but is not overpowering. It begins with a ripe peach sweetness that is supplemented by a poached pear and tropical fruit mid-palate. The finish brings in a green chilli pepper spice and a slight oiliness with a balanced and rounding acidity. It isn't the lengthiest wine I've tried, but certainly is powerful.

Rating: This wine is beautiful in youth. I'm not sure how well it would fare with much age, as much of the appeal is the freshness and clear-cut flavours at each step. There is enough weight and richness to pair with strong foods from scallops to spiced pork, while the acidity and lightness will keep you coming back for more. A fantastic, great value for money, American Viognier. 8.7/10