Barossa, 4 Months In

Since September I have been living in the Barossa Valley, South Australia - check out my blog from the internship I was on with the Yalumba Wine Company here, at Mentor Me - Hugh. After the program finished, I decided to stay in South Australia and have been working in Cellar Doors and will be moving into the cellar itself at Yalumba for the 2015 harvest in a month. 

Artisans of Barossa, photo: H McCullough

In the three months since my internship ended, I've been able to meet a lot of honest, hard-working people who make some very tasty wines. I've also met a lot of tourists. I am in a strange position - a tourist myself, selling wine to other tourists. In mid-October I started working in the Yalumba Wine Room and at the same time, the Artisans of Barossa Tasting Room. Artisans of Barossa is a shared tasting room for 7 small Barossa producers, each of whom has a totally different approach and philosophy about winemaking. Over the next couple of weeks I hope to share with you some of my experiences with Yalumba and the Artisans, as well as some delicious drops I've been lucky enough to try...

I haven't had many days off, but the last few that I have had, I have made my way around the valleys a bit more; tasting more and learning more. With the extra time here I have without doubt developed more of an appreciation for the regions and areas around the Barossa - whether they be legally limited or not. The history of the place never ceases to fascinate me. I recently drank a Shiraz made from vines planted in 1880 (Barossa is full of these old vines, having escaped the ravaging vine-killing pest phylloxera, which has devastated vineyards all over the world) by a family that still tends to the vines, 6 generations later, selling their prized fruit to a winemaker 2km up the road to make a stunning drop of complex, rare and age-worthy wine. I have two bottles of it and will find it very very hard to keep my hands off while it slowly develops in my cupboard. The stories behind the wine are what make drinking a bottle worth it, for me. Getting the opportunity to meet those who strive to make the best possible wine is consuming - I hope that comes across when I pour tastings for visitors. 

Believe it or not, Shiraz was not my thing until I moved here. That has definitely changed. Anyone I can convert to Shiraz will never look back! There is no better feeling than having a visitor come in and say 'I don't know your wines and Shiraz isn't really my favourite - what can you show me?', then leave with two or three different styles they will appreciate and drink for years to come. So, with that in mind, here are three stunning - and completely different - Shiraz styles that have blown me away in the last few months:

- Sons of Eden Remus Shiraz 2012, Eden Valley

     This is a beast of a wine. Named for the mythical brother of the founder of Rome, Romulus, Remus is a powerful expression of what Eden wines can do. While their Romulus Shiraz is Barossa Valley fruit in American oak (ripe fruit on sweeter oak), Remus is Eden fruit on French oak (spice on spice). The cooler climate of the higher elevation Eden Valley tends to give Shiraz with a more peppery character, as well as a slightly lighter and more elegant palate. 20 months on 65% new French oak gives plenty of power, though and this will be one to come back to for at least 15 years. 

- Yalumba Paradox Shiraz 2010, Barossa Valley

     What an elegant wine. Those who think Barossa Shiraz is boozy and ripe must taste this to begin changing their minds! Subtle savoury characters come through this wine and maturation in large format barrels give it a mellow complexity rather than an over-oaked flavour. Wonderful with spiced lamb - all I can think about when tasting it! 

- John Duval Eligo Shiraz 2009, Eden and Barossa Valley

     A stunning wine from a winemaker who certainly knows his way around Shiraz (and Syrah!). Eligo means to hand select and this is exactly what has happened - fruit is marked from the vine as being of exceptional quality and only gets exceptional treatment. Every time you return to it, it shows off another dimension: bitter chocolate, blueberries, blackcurrants with a textured and lengthy finish of sublime, restrained power. Delicious.

I implore you all to go taste the fruits of the Barossa! More to come...

Louis Jadot Pernand-Vergelesses 'Clos de la Croix de Pierre' 1er Cru 2000

Recently I have been drinking a lot of American and Australian wines. I have always been a sucker for the rich, oaked Pinots from Oregon and California, and with an upcoming move to the Barossa Valley, have been trying more and more Shiraz. Except for last night. Every once in a while it's good to shock your palate and go back to a completely different style. I have recently been working on figuring out drinking windows for the Fine Wine Room at Luvians Bottle Shop and the last week or so has seen me going through our Burgundy section. What better way to see if the critics are right about 1er Crus' general potential to age for 10-15 years than to try a bottle? 

Louis Jadot is one of the largest and most well-known of Burgundy negociants, with plots and grape growers all over Burgundy, from the Nuits, to Beaune, Macon and Beaujolais. It makes wine at all price points and really showcases the best of the region. Pernand Vergelesses is a village in the north of the Cote de Beaune and makes white and red wine on its cool east-facing slopes that protect the vines from the pesky weather. In the area, Pommard, Aloxe-Corton and Beaune itself often make Pernand-Vergelesses wines relatively good value for money (as was the case for this wine, sitting at £25). 

Appearance: Just what I had hoped for in a 14 year old Burgundy: Light, dusty garnet colour - slightly rusty with orange tinted edges.

Nose: When first opened it gave off strong earthy aromas that would give it away as a Burgundy instantly in a blind tasting: notes of tobacco, farmyard and wet fur slowly gave way to macerated strawberries and tart cherries. As it opened up over the next hour the fruit came forward. Hints of liquorice and cedar wood developed, as well as a beautifully inviting rose petal note.

Palate: The palate was light and dry, with high acidity and low tannins, as you would expect from a Pinot. Initially it was quite funky (mushrooms, truffles, dusty farmy notes), but with time in the glass it blossomed. The purity of fruit was amazing, strawberries and cherries bursting on the mid-palate. Spicy notes popped up all over the place - cinnamon, clove, anise - complementing and backing the subtle vanilla hints from the oak ageing. This all blends seamlessly to a lengthy and powerful finish.

Conclusions: The wine has certainly aged well. The funky farmyard notes would have been too overpowering a few years ago, but have mellowed into a perfect drinking window just now. Amazing depth and complexity showed as it opened up in the glass: this wine proves Burgundy 1er Cru should be drunk either very young or after 14-16 years! Cracking Pinot and unmistakably Burgundy

  

Montoliva Sierra Bella, Chicago Park, Sierra Foothills, California, 2009

The first winery that I visited was this one, around the corner from where I was staying. The small production I hoped would yield high quality and that's exactly what I found! The vineyard grows only Italian varietals in the Italian style and this is their red table wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Barbera and Teroldego.

Appearance: The wine looks dark and sleek, with an inky purple to it. It is light bodied and dances around the glass.

Nose: Very high acidity is the first thing you notice. This gives way to cinnamon, clove, anise and redcurrants.

Palate: The high acidity carries itself through a mid-palate of dark fruits and tar to the strict tannins. These, however, do not overpower the flavour, but enhance it into a complex, full-bodied finish with notes of leather and licorice. 

Rating: This wine (really the whole winery) surprised me. It completely bucks the trend in Californian wines towards sweet, thick fruity reds: There is freshness and acidity and there are stringent, Old World-style, savoury flavours throughout. Those looking for bold, oaky American wines will be disappointed, but those looking for an interesting, well-priced ($15), wonderfully food-friendly wine that shows the potential of a region on the rise will be more than satisfied. 8.5/10

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, CA, USA, 2011

This was the first wine on my 2013 California trip that I tried. Their Zin has made it across the pond (and is quite delicious at around 10 pounds per bottle), but this was the first I had seen of any other varietal. I went in expecting a big, juicy American brute of a Cab... and that's what I found!

Appearance: A strong garnet centre moved to a more purple edge with a youthful sheen to it. 

Nose: The nose starts with a slight freshness to it, with a hint of acidity, but its underlying power is almost tangible. Notes of coffee, stewed plum and aggressive cedar.

Palate: Though there is a touch of acidity, it gives way to a fruity crispness of currants and cranberries, which is then quickly washed away by thick, riper, sweeter fruits. There is a slight herbaceous zing to the back of the palate and a slight spice, but the finish is tainted by an alcoholic bite.

Rating: At 10 US dollars per bottle in California there is not much to complain about if it is the style you are looking for: it is a beefy, aggressive, thick American Cab with plenty of wood and high in alcohol (the label says 14.5). Definitely one to have with food. 7/10.

Chateau Pontet-Canet, Pauillac, Bordeaux, 2006

Though still quite youthful, this was a delicious bottle. A lovely wine from a classic Bordeaux vintage.

Appearance: It showed clarity through the centre, with pink tinges to the edges.

Nose: A very complex nose came through as being quite plummy, along with leather, pencil lead and pine.

Palate: Weighty ripe fruit comes through first, though seems a little subdued. More age is needed to develop these flavours. Coming through was a smokey minerality, with a dark cocoa finish, complemented by strict tannins.

Rating: A smooth and controlled wine, but one that is not quite ready - it will break out with more age to it. That being said, the depth is still very impressive and the acidity a refreshingly balanced accompaniment to the dark fruits. 8.5/10

Chateau Cissac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux, 2008

A scrumptious Cru Bourgeois from a mixed vintage. 

Appearance: Deep garnet. A lovely thickness looks inviting.

Nose: There is a slight delicacy to the smell, but its power is unmistakeable. Hints of mint and cedar wood move to wet tobacco, blackcurrant and marzipan.

Palate: A sweet strawberry front-palate moves to a darker, softer mid-palate, with notes of plum and soft oaky spices (cumin, cloves). A touch of bell pepper freshens the finish which is lengthy, though the tannins are a little soft.

Rating: Delicious wine and a reasonable cost (c.£10-14). Its sweetness is not cloying and the palate very well-balanced. A firmer finish is my only wish, but a minor one. 7.5/10

Chateau Cheval Blanc, St-Emilion, Bordeaux, 2006

This was a real treat - a 2006 Cheval Blanc. I tasted this at Hedonism Wines in London as it was featured in their tasting bar in the basement and I couldn't resist. I am very slowly adding to my repertoire of the top Bordeaux Chateaux...

Appearance: Although the room was mood-lit to a low level, the wine was clearly bright and full-bodied, with touches of pink on the edges and a deep, inviting purpler colour.

Nose: The smells were rather subdued, yet clearly very powerful. There were hints of rich, dark chocolate, cedar and spiced plums. Relatively high acidity hints that it could age for a while yet.

Palate: The palate showed and impressive depth and character to the wine, with a real structure to it. A savoury mid-palate led to a burst of cherry, with a quince jelly finish aided by powerful tannins. 

Rating: From a year that was hit-and-miss on the Right Bank, the Cheval shows an amazing strength and depth. The wine-maker clearly successfully dodged the rains and produced a fantastic wine that will get better for quite a few more years. What a privilege to try one! 9/10

Chateau Martinens, Margaux, Bordeaux, 2007

As the University Wine Tasting Team prepare for the last competition of the year in a few weeks' time, I thought I would share with you a couple of the wines we have been testing ourselves on! This Cru Bourgeois Margaux was delicious - certainly a nice treat on a Saturday afternoon... Anyone living in St Andrews can purchase this at St Andrews Wine Co. on Bell St.

Appearance: In the glass the wine appears at first glance to be a little older than 2007, with a brick orange hue to the edges, and a lighter garnet centre.

Nose: The complexity and development of this wine was quite amazing: every time I try a Margaux I am always drawn back to believing Bordeaux to be the world's top region for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Here it presents with a strong yet delicate nose of dark leather, cocoa, with a blueberry sweetness to it.

Palate: A plush chocolatey thickness gives way to a lighter stoney minerality and cleanliness on the finish, which is lengthy and very well structured. A slight hint of orange zest is notable, as well as delicate, soft spices and supple tannins.

Rating: All in all, I wish more Bordeaux could be like this. Elegant and refined, perfumed and delicate, yet with all the power and strength for its complex characteristics to show through. It is very well balanced and extremely drinkable. 9/10

Dog Strangler Mourvedre, Consolation, Roussillon, France, 2009

Not normally a single varietal, this interesting wine is from the under-appreciated South of France. 

Appearance: A deep inky purple.

Nose: A tight meaty nose at first, it turns rounder and plusher after a few minutes. Notes of blackcurrant, mint, cedar and anise, as well as a vegetal undertone.

Palate: At first the palate is rather savoury. It opens with oak, sour cherry and bitter chocolate. It then, however, moves to a plummy and soft finish with warm tannins.

Rating: Overall, a strong and robust red. It is lengthy and very pleasant: perfect for a hearty cheese selection and worth the price (<20) 8/10.

Ridge Vineyards Geyserville Zinfandel, California, USA, 1999

For my first red wine review I have decided to review a wine I first tried at Christmas, and again this past Sunday with Easter dinner. Since I first started working with and getting into wine, Ridge has always been a personal favourite. However, this bottle is the oldest of their Zins that I have managed to try.

Appearance: It has a deep, dark centre with a lighter purple tinge towards the edges. It clings invitingly to the edges of the glass when swirls and doesn't have the off-putting thickness that some Zins can get.

Nose: The wine has an inviting nose, yet it is a little subdued (which only increases curiosity). I could pick out plums, savoury oaked spice - cloves, mostly - and a vegetal hint towards the end of my breath.

Palate: The palate comes in three waves. First, a plush, fruity burst of stewed cherry with a zing of redcurrant. Second, grippy tannins lengthen the taste with soft oaked spices, cinnamon and a touch of black pepper. This continues to the third: a powerful finish that is in no way sticky or overdone, leaving notes of tobacco, plum, cedar and dancing spices.

Rating: I rarely get to try wines such as this and I am certainly glad I was able to enjoy it with a meal to match - I would definitely recommend a roast lamb dish with any Ridge reds. Its astonishing length, beautifully composed and well-blended palate cannot really be faulted. It is full bodied, without being too thick, powerful, yet not aggressive. I wouldn't imagine it will be this good for many more years, so if you see a bottle - buy it! 9.5/10