Ridge Monte Bello Chardonnay 2006

Here in the UK, Ridge Vineyards holds a special place in every wine-lover's mind. Though we only get a selection of their impressive range, what does make it across the pond always surprises and excites drinkers. Some expect the boldest, oak-heavy, Cabs, Zins and Chardonnays that California has become known for. Others who know Ridge's expert blending skills and supremely balanced, restrained style are almost always still pleasantly surprised with the composure and complexity in the wines. This Chardonnay is no different. I have previously reviewed their Geyserville Zinfandel-heavy blend to show how well Zin can age and have been eyeing this 06 Chardonnay for a while, wondering how well it has stood the test of time...

Appearance: A viscous intense gold colour that still appears lively and inviting.

Nose: On the nose the wine instantly shows its development - rich, nutty aromas move on to buttered toast along with bruised apples and pears and a hint of cinnamon. There are also hints of vanilla, honeysuckle and orange rind.

Palate: Once in your mouth this wine comes alive. It is full-bodied and all-encompassing. Rich and creamy, it tastes of apple pie, with the same notes of cinnamon and other Christmas spices, as well as giving lovely nutty notes intertwined with tropical fruits too. The complexity is amazing and I could keep listing flavours that dance around - the finish caps it all off and will stay with you for what seems like an age.

Conclusion: After 8 years this Chardonnay is really impressive. Though I'm not sure it could keep going for much longer, this amount of development is perfect for it. Ridge's top vineyard in the Santa Cruz Mountains has produced a Chardonnay that is balanced, restrained, yet intense, powerful and exciting. The high alcohol (14.5%) is completely integrated, as is the richness from oak fermentation and ageing. Its price tag (c.£60), I would argue, is justified, as it more than competes with White Burgundy at the same level and would blow a few out of the water. The French drink old Meursault with cheese after dinner: I would drink this. Top notch stuff.

Cakebread Cellars Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, USA, 2010

Another wine on the list at the restaurant, I've wanted to try this Napa Sauvignon for a while. I luckily got the chance a couple of days ago and it was definitely an eye-opener. A cool year, the 2010 vintage made especially crisp, green wine: this one is no different. It is Cakebread's process that makes this wine so interesting. As well as Sauvignon Blanc, small amounts of Semillon and Sauvignon Musque are added, for a bit of weight and structure, as well as floral notes. Just over 10% of the grape juice was fermented in oak barrels, while nearly 90% of the wine produced was then aged in French oak for 5 months. 

Appearance: The wine is very pale, with a slight hint of green to the edges and a robust body to it.

Nose: The first few smells are very intense - gooseberry, lemon zest and grapefruit mostly. There are touches of blossom and soft spices in the background, while crisp acidity is clear.

Palate: The front of the palate is very cool and crisp, almost leafy. It then bursts into a richness of melon and gooseberry, with an almost creamy, heavier texture from the oak. This is all then carried through by the zingy citric acidity to a powerful finish.

Rating: There is a lot going on in this wine. It has classic Sauvignon flavours, with a common blending grape added (Semillon), but also packs a serious punch. The complexity and weighty texture gained from the oak juxtaposed with the ripe acidic wine calls out for it to be drunk with food, which is when it will come into its own. By itself, it is a marvel to pick apart. 8.5/10  

The Crusher Viognier, Wilson Vineyard, Clarksburg, CA, USA, 2011

This amazing new wine on the Seafood Restaurant list has surprised all who work there. It is from the little-known Clarksburg AVA, situated just to the East of Napa Valley. The soils are flat and fertile with plenty of clay and silt deposits, with fog and cooling breezes from San Francisco Bay blowing inland from the West. The vineyard's Petit Syrah is a marvel also.

Appearance: Unlike most Viogniers, The Crusher does not appear to be too thick and oily in the glass. It has a soft straw colour, with a hint of green to it that suggests youth and freshness.

Nose: The nose is bright, clean and very vegetal. Unripe apricots develop into notes of white peach and honeysuckle, while fresh grass and herbs make for an altogether fragrant wine.

Palate: The palate is weightier than the nose might suggest, but is not overpowering. It begins with a ripe peach sweetness that is supplemented by a poached pear and tropical fruit mid-palate. The finish brings in a green chilli pepper spice and a slight oiliness with a balanced and rounding acidity. It isn't the lengthiest wine I've tried, but certainly is powerful.

Rating: This wine is beautiful in youth. I'm not sure how well it would fare with much age, as much of the appeal is the freshness and clear-cut flavours at each step. There is enough weight and richness to pair with strong foods from scallops to spiced pork, while the acidity and lightness will keep you coming back for more. A fantastic, great value for money, American Viognier. 8.7/10

Pinot d'Alsace Metiss, Domaine Bott-Geyl, Alsace, 2009

This is an interesting blend from the Alsace region of France. It is made from predominantly Pinot Gris, but contains others in the Pinot family, like Pinot Blanc, Pinot Noir and Pinot Auxerrois. Made by Domaine Bott-Geyl, a biodynamic enterprise in Beblenheim.

Appearance: It has an inviting deep, dark gold colour, with a hint of green freshness about the edges.

Nose: It starts with amazingly fresh, clean green apples, and moves to a complex stoney minerality. It is packed with ripeness when opened in the glass, leading on to touches of honey and pear.

Palate: As is typical with many Alsatian wines, it is very dry, yet still has a ripe fruits and a full body to it. The front palate is all about the pear and apple acidity, but it then moves to a more delicate array of cloves, crystallised ginger. The finish is held together by a lengthy minerality, that leaves a pleasant warmth.

Rating: All in all, a fantastic wine for the price (c.£11). Very well-rounded, full-bodied, yet fresh. It certainly does better with food, but even without it the complexity will keep you impressed. Excellent balance of spice with acidity and weight. 8/10

Simonsig Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2010

This Chardonnay has been served at the Seafood Restaurant for as long as I have worked there and is always a lovely bottle.

Appearance: Deep gold, with a green tinge.

Nose: It shows some impressive body right off the mark, with an earthy minerality. Notes of brioche, vanilla sweetness and orange blossom lead to a touch of citrus.

Palate: There is a thickness to it, yet it is not cloying. A tropical mid-palate of melon and pineapple may taste a little sweet to those not completely sold on powerful Chardonnays, but it leads to a bright acidity and oakey spice on the finish.

Rating: A lovely drop, showing how South African Chardonnay must be taken seriously. It also won't break the bank at around £12. 8/10.