Simonsig Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2010

This Chardonnay has been served at the Seafood Restaurant for as long as I have worked there and is always a lovely bottle.

Appearance: Deep gold, with a green tinge.

Nose: It shows some impressive body right off the mark, with an earthy minerality. Notes of brioche, vanilla sweetness and orange blossom lead to a touch of citrus.

Palate: There is a thickness to it, yet it is not cloying. A tropical mid-palate of melon and pineapple may taste a little sweet to those not completely sold on powerful Chardonnays, but it leads to a bright acidity and oakey spice on the finish.

Rating: A lovely drop, showing how South African Chardonnay must be taken seriously. It also won't break the bank at around £12. 8/10.

Domaine Carneros Brut, Napa, USA, 2006

Welcome to a new type of post on my blog. From now on I shall have more regular, shorter posts detailing just tasting notes and a rating of particular wines. At longer intervals I will put up longer articles and reviews still, so keep an eye out for those! In keeping with a blind tasting technique I shall write these shorter posts conforming to a layout that details the wine's appearance, nose and palate, followed by a rating - hopefully this will give easy and fast recommendations...

The first wine I shall review in this way is Domaine Carneros' 2006 Brut, a sparkling wine made up of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, from Napa and Sonoma in California. Interestingly, the label is owned by Taittinger and all the sparkling wines are made in the traditional French style - that is to say that the wine is fermented a second time (after blending) in the bottle - and is aged there for 3 years before release.

Appearance: Light and straw-coloured with a hint of gold.

Nose: Complex, with toasty notes and hints of mango and apricot.

Palate: Zingy orange, dried mango and raspberry leaves present, with a lengthy finish and a well-rounded acidity that is anything but sharp.

Rating: Impressive, and clearly influenced by its French owners. 8.5/10

Pinot Gris: A Mystery Grape

Pinot Gris has always been to me somewhat of a mystery grape. Mystery in that I always found it odd that it could be such a powerful, full-bodied, expressive wine with astonishing depth of character and flavour when grown in Alsace, yet (often) such a light, crisp, sometimes bland wine elsewhere, such as in Italy where it is known as Pinot Grigio (the same can be said of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Bianco in Italy). What has brought this to my mind again recently is a recent Blind Tasting competition I was taking part in where I was presented with what appeared to be a lovely, oaked, Chardonnay. Presenting with a delicate nose of pear, orange blossom and honeysuckle, the wine that I believed to be an extremely delicious Bourgogne Blanc then moved to a sublime, full palate of honey and ripe apples. When it was revealed as a Pinot Gris from New Zealand, needless to say, I was a little stumped.  

After some research and opening a few bottles, I now feel I have more of a grasp of the grape - although, as with every puzzling varietal, I am sure I have only scratched the surface. The Italian version, Pinot Grigio, is grown in the North of the country, particularly in Fruili, Alto Adige and Lombardy. Often given a bad name by supermarket bulk orders, it has the potential to be quite a watery wine with little more than high acidity and a nose of boiled sweets; however, given the opportunity, it can be a lovely wine full of crisp green apples, almonds and a zing of mint. Similarly, Australian Pinot Gris focuses on the lighter crisp style, with Willunga being one particularly worth trying (often

attractively priced at under £10).

So far, however, I am still most struck by what Alsatian winemakers have produced, with their incredibly low yields (often down to just 4,000 litres per hectare) giving outstanding quality. With that traditional Alsatian nose that promises a voluptuous and exciting wine, every one I have tasted has not disappointed. A particular favourite has been Domaine Ostertag's Muenchberg A360P Grand Cru, which has an impressive ability to age: the '01 and '02 were both excellent, with my personal choice being the latter. It showed an amazing array of marmalade, citrus pith, rounding acidity and spice: I have yet to taste another Alsatian wine with its depth and complexity.

No doubt, Alsace's soil plays a vital role in its superiority, with the Muenchberg vineyards in particular benefiting from volcanic sediments, lime- and sandstone which impart a depth and mineral quality not found elsewhere.

Next on my list to explore will be Oregon and Canada, both of which boast Pinot Gris with high ratings that are of similar style to Alsace. The best thing about having a mystery grape to explore is that there is always more of the mystery to dive into. Stay tuned.

A Couple Of Kiwis

Before I got myself caught up in a busy semester at University I had been planning on writing one last piece on my trip to California, namely on Paul Hobbs, whose Chardonnay I loved back in February (A Spectacular Chardonnay - and still do). However, I will write up the reds I tasted there in an upcoming post once I have re-tasted a few that weighed down my suitcase on my return flight. Now I will give a little recommendation or two for those of you stuck for New Year's gifts, or a nice bottle for that last family dinner before a return to work. 

The wines I have tasted recently are from New Zealand: an area that has fascinated me in the last 6 months, while working as the Sommelier of the Seafood Restaurant in St Andrews. The reason for this interest stems from the fact that a Martinborough Sauvignon Blanc that I was pouring was the best selling wine at the restaurant. I thought I should delve more into the country. 

Known (sometimes unfairly) popularly just for Marlborough's Sauvignon, New Zealand is a relatively young wine-growing country, but one that is rapidly expanding with a great deal of passion and pride in quality. For my Christmas dinner this year I decided to opt for solely Kiwi wines and made a point to get wines that I had never had before and that were not what one would normally expect from the country. With roast lamb I chose a Unison Syrah (06) from the Hawke's Bay region which ended up being an outstanding match for both the meat and the following spiced butterscotch toffee pudding. With cheeses, I opted for a sweeter 08 Neudorf Riesling from Nelson with 47g/l of residual sugar (which equates it roughly with high quality Spaetlese Riesling from Germany). 

The Syrah is produced in the Gimblett Gravels area of Hawke's Bay, which is 800 hectares of the best irrigated, shingled and most fertile soils in the region, known for its outstanding quality. It presented with quite a subdued nose at first, but with a little time open it was an impressively opulent yet fresh bouquet of ripe fruits that came forward. A silky smooth palate was complemented with a continuation of bold fruits into a balanced, calm tannic finish. The finish itself moved from fruit to spices and I was left with a lengthy and warm taste of cloves and pepper that did not overpower the fruit of moments before. 

The Riesling is their 'Moutere' bottling, meaning the grapes come solely from vines in the Moutere Hills in Nelson, known for their quality. The vineyard itself was named Winery of the Year 2012 by Raymond Chan Reviews recently and judging by the Riesling, it was deserved. The nose gives off a cool florality that is matched on the palate by an almost wet vegetal nature that I have come to associate with many Kiwi Rieslings. The residual sugar is beautifully matched with a cleansing acidity and hint of petillance that reminds me of much pricier Mosel wines. A strong tropicality with the slightest touch of greenery binds it all together into a long-lasting and impressive mouthful. 

Looking into New Zealand's wines over the last 6 months or so has opened my eyes to a wide variety of grapes and styles, and these two particular wines reinforced that, without question. There are many more surprises to come, I'm sure, with a rising production of Gewuertztraminer and Pinot Gris, and continuing emphasis on high-quality Chardonnay in Gisborne, as well as elsewhere. In short there are fantastic wines to be found. If any readers are from the Oxfordshire area, these particular wines were purchased from Wine Bear, a fantastic new shop in Chipping Norton, each for around £13-17.

Wine Tourism

     Following my tasting at Chateau Montelena, which was eye-opening to say the least, we drove up and down Hwy 29 without any plans, popping in to the vineyards which I recognised, which looked good, and one or two others randomly. That is the beauty of Napa - it is geared for tourism: everything is within reach, which is perfect for those (like me) who begin to feel the effects of multiple tastings quickly despite asking for a spittoon at every winery. On that day we visited Grgich Hills Estate, Alpha and Omega, Pride Mountain Vineyards and Heitz Cellars, trying anything and everything we could: with grapes ranging from the usual (Napa Cab) to the unusual ('Port', dessert Gewuertztraminer, Viognier). 

     I was extremely impressed with Grgich Hills, which I had served a few years ago as a waiter in Lake Tahoe, and had seen once or twice in the UK. Their Chardonnay was mildly oaked and seemed to focus its attention on a complex blend of passion fruit, lemon zest and touches of tropicality. Lower in alcohol than many Napa Chardonnays, it was certainly one to remember. The stand-out from this vineyard, however, was something I was not expecting to come across - a late harvest blend of Gewuertztraminer, Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc which they had named 'Violetta'. It had an amazingly intense nose which reminded me of a Mosel Spaetlese, with plenty of apricot and cherry blossom. It carried a touch of acidity to the back of the palate which balanced out the deep sweetness quite well. Despite its price ($85) it was a very interesting dessert wine. 

  Heitz Cellars was one that caught my eye on the drive in, and is a vineyard that I have bought from in the UK before. We pulled in and were welcomed by a very knowledgable man who knew exactly who I had bought it from just months before. He showed us their extensive range of boutique Cabernet Sauvignons ranging from $60 to upwards of $150 per bottle. All were very heavily oaked (3 and a half years), powerful and bright, with notes of cherry and eucalyptus running through. The star here was a 2000 'Martha's Vineyard' which was opened specially for us, and did not disappoint! 

Less exciting was a trip to the relatively new Alpha and Omega, which for some reason has a great reputation in the US. This was lost on me though as the Cabernets we tried were incredibly young, nowhere near ready and rather acidic. They said they were making them in the Pomerol style, but what was produced was not plush and exuberant, but rather sharp. From there, however, we were given a tip to drive out to Pride Mountain Vineyards north of Calistoga about 30 minutes, and this was definitely worth the trip! 

     Pride straddles the border between Napa and Sonoma counties, so all their grapes are weighed and categorised as soon as they are picked so each bottle can describe the percentage from each county each wine contains. They are renowned for their Viognier which was described to me by a rival winemaker as "the best outside of Condrieu", and has been served at the White House Christmas Dinner 9 years running. It lived up to expectations: even the 2011 was fantastically developed, showing an amazingly floral nose and a palate that wasn't too oily, with dancing fresh acidity all the way through. The finish was lengthy and luscious, while maintaining an impressive composure of jasmine, peach and lychee. Another feature of Californian wines that Pride have managed to integrate extremely well is the high alcohol content: this particular wine was listed officially at 14.2%, but that was not at all noticeable. 

     All in all, it was a day packed full of a vast array of styles and grapes, but one that I will never forget. The variety in Napa is astounding, and I'm sure I will be trying to map it out for many, many years to come.  

Chateau Montelena

For the first of 3 posts about tasting in Napa Valley I will focus on just one winery. Chateau Montelena was the first place I had a reserved tasting and is situated in the north of Napa Valley in the small town of Calistoga. It is a beautiful place with a stone chateau nestled in the side of the hills covered in trees. The left side has been renovated to accommodate the tourists which now bring so much revenue in the area. I was brought to a private room where 6 glasses were lined up ready to go. 

I was led through the tasting by a girl who was extremely passionate about the place. First was their Potter Valley Riesling which is made in a traditional German style - an ode to the founder of the Chateau who was himself German and a great fan of the grape. It was off-dry, yet wonderfully balanced without the flabbiness and sticky nature of many Napa Rieslings. Being a big fan of Riesling made in this style, I really enjoyed this wine - perfect for fresh seafood, or asian dishes. From there I was given the 2009 Chardonnay. The Chardonnay here has been very well-known since the Judgement of Paris in the 70s, and especially since the recognition in the movie Bottleshock. The tasting did not disappoint - it was a spectacular wine that was subtle yet powerful from nose to the back of the palate. Beautiful sugary nuttiness on the finish, with a silky blossom, citrus and tropicality on the palate. It was lengthy and very impressive - definitely one to savour, if given the chance. 

What was apparent though, was that they wished to show off their Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. I was then given four vintages of this in a row, from 04, and 06 through 08. The 2004 was sublime - well-rounded, gripping tannins were the feature, with a punchy blackcurrant palate, touches of cedar-wood and an almost minty coolness providing an exciting mouthful. 

The next three vintages were varying in their excellence. They all seemed very young and not sure of their feet quite yet. The 2007 was mediocre despite the perfect growing weather in the season, while the 2008 showed fantastic promise, with very well-integrated alcohol and structure. The star was however the 2006 which had a very impressive fruity palate that took over and lasted for ever, with a silky tannic hold assisting. 

Overall, the Chateau, while catering for tourists, seemed to hold a sense of being solely about the wine. They were very well-made and all incredibly powerful. However, due to relatively small production and costs, it is near impossible to find it over in the UK, a great shame. This does mean though that I am not going to be able to shell out £100 or so per bottle very often. My favourite of the tasting had to be the Chardonnay. It certainly lived up to expectation and at around £40 per bottle it is a steal for those special occasions. If any of you are in the States, it would be worth buying one or two.

Napa Valley

Over this busy summer I have been working at the Seafood Restaurant with their wine list, but towards the end I was allowed to escape for a couple weeks and managed to get over to the USA where my family is from. I snuck away for a couple days and visited Napa Valley - somewhere that has always appealed to my love of American wine and culture. It did not disappoint. This first post about Napa is more a general impression of the area, while later ones will detail tastings and recommendations. 

I was travelling with my flatmate in St Andrews, and although he isn't quite as in to wine as me, he was open to try it, and did not feel left out. This seemed to be the theme of the Valley: openness to any level of appreciation. He was always made to feel welcome at all the vineyards, whether they were talking to me about the length of oak ageing, or pouring us tastes of new vintages. 

We drove in from the South and immediately drove North along Hwy 29 all the way up to Calistoga, to be ready to taste at 10am at Chateau Montelena, of Bottleshock fame. The climate in the summer is hot - around 28 degrees - and cool in the evening, with little to no chance of rain. It was an idyllic setting to drive towards. The Valley itself is relatively contained, and Hwy 29 is only paralleled by one other road, meaning that everything is right there and easily reached. We were bombarded by signs advertising tastings from 10am until 5pm every day, offers such as 'Crazy Good Cabernets' and 'The Wine is Bottled Poetry' and much more. We had booked just the one tasting in advance, with the intention of popping in wherever took our fancy afterwards, and in retrospect this was the best way to do it. Driving along the Highway I saw a few vineyards from whom I had recently bought, and it was great to be able to decide to pull up unannounced and be welcomed for a selection to try without pre-booking, as one would surely have to do in Europe. 

The impression I was given about wine-making in Napa was that it was unrestricted and all about passion. One wine-maker I was talking to said that he had given up a career in France to work in California because of the lack of restrictions on grape variety, length of ageing, materials you can use - the list goes on. For him, the Californian wine industry was all about what you wanted to do, if you made good wine, well done, otherwise you wouldn't sell it! The soil and climate is so suited to viticulture, that with that passion, it is possible to produce fantastic wine. The vast majority of what we tried was fantastic, and if not, it was at least interesting, off the wall or something I had never before thought of trying. 

Napa was, for want of a better word, alive and a place I would without doubt live and work. If one doesn't want to live and work there, one leaves. It seems to be as simple as that. As a result, everyone, down to those working part time in the tasting rooms pouring wine for tourists, loved what they were doing and that was a very impressive and likeable trait. 

Keep your eyes peeled for a series of write-ups of a selection of the vineyards I visited - they are without doubt worth watching out for.