What To Do With Viogner

Viogner is a grape that I had not really paid much attention to until about 2 months ago when it appeared as a subject at a blind tasting and it was all we drank that day. It is certainly one that I pay heed to now: the blend of dried fruit and spices and the intensity it delivers is something to marvel at. Generally one thinks of the Rhone Valley in France when Viogner is mentioned and that is where I'll start. There it can be made as a single varietal wine, as in Condieu where it can command premium prices, or as part of a blend - sometimes in red wines for freshness and aroma, sometimes in whites.

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On the whole these regions lend themselves to very impressive wines that are extremely food-friendly, if a little expensive. As the area is very hot and Viognier ripens relatively quickly, there is a fine balance to attain when harvesting to ensure the right amount of sugar and development. They are generally quite light on the nose, with hints of sweet white fruit, herbs and white pepper. The palate is long, slightly sticky, with notes of peach, licourice and heavy peppery spices, as well as an intense minerality gained from the soil that is a marker of its quality. These, coupled together with a herb and spice-crusted rack of lamb dish, or even a moderately spiced curry, would be a match to remember. 

To the south of the Rhone Valley is the Languedoc region. This area of France has a slightly different strain of the Viognier grape which is more prominent across the New World, yet does quite well in the hot, arid landscape to the south. Generally the New World strain of Viognier gives notes of apricot and honeysuckle. This with the lack of minerality distinguishes the two. A perfect example of a Languedoc Viognier is Baron Phlipe de Rothschild's which is priced at around 8-10 pounds per bottle. A rich mellow nose leads into a high alcohol yet complex palate with honeysuckle, apricot, peach and a spicey finish. All in all, a wine of impressive structure for the price.

Moving further away from Viognier's homeland as it were, Australia has been planting a vast amount, especially in the Eden Valley. As one would expect, the style is much more aggressive, full-on and powerful. A great example and a wine very much worth trying, with or without food, is Yalumba's Eden Valley Viognier, for around 15 pounds. It smells strongly of toasted sesame seeds and the alcohol which makes up 14.5% (rare in a white wine of any varietal) is well integrated. The palate is deeply nutty and layered with stone fruits such as apricots, dried mangoes and touches of citrus peel. With a rounding spicy finish to bind the whole thing together, it would be perfect with spicy lamb, anything seasoned well with rosemary, or to be a bit different, perhaps  a sweet seafood meat, such as crab. 

In short Viognier is an interesting grape that is now yielding much more than the expensive classics of the Rhone Valley. It is a legitimate way to explore pairing spicier foods with wines and most of the time, it works. The structure, spice, and fruit has traveled well around the New World, especially in Australia: it is definitely a grape to explore. 

California: A Wine-lover's Paradise

This is an article I wrote for OwlEyes Magazine, a student-run online culture magazine at the University of St Andrews where I study: www.owleyesmagazine.com

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California. Aside from conjuring up images of surfers, boardwalks, Hollywood signs and more, the state also brings up pictures of fertile land: oranges, peaches and most importantly grapes grow extremely well. Californian wine has been steadily developing itself to a near-Old World status in terms of perception and actual quality of wine ever since the great revival of the 1960s. Big names such as Robert Mondavi, Christian Moueix, Ridge and Stag's Leap have come to be known to produce some of the world's premier bottles, while the regions are household names: Napa and Sonoma Valleys, the Russian River Valley and Santa Barbara County to name but a few.

Californian wine brings more to a dinner or an evening than any other wine I have ever come across. In general the style has been starting to become more and more like the Old World quality due to the aging of the vines (the first being planted back in the 18^th Century by Spanish Missionaries), but the distinguishing characteristics still remain. California produces intensely fruity, strong wines which always excite. With a climate that is warmer than that of France, in general, but with the cooling influence of the Pacific Ocean so close to the vines, a unique blend of intense ripeness and New World exuberance with old vines can be produced.

Anyone looking to impress someone who is interested in wine should always, in my opinion, go Californian. It is possible to find spectacular wines for any budget, each as impressive as the next. Here are a few pointers, and my most memorable Californian bottles:

• Wild Boy Chardonnay, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Barbara County –

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This is a wine I have had on numerous occasions as an alternative to spending money on something of the same grape from Burgundy. The wine-maker Jim Clendenen (who gives his name to the title...) is very fond of the Old World style and it shows in this base cuvee. The winery is based in and around Santa Barbara County which is towards the south of the state. It is thus a very warm climate and it shows. The alcohol content is relatively high at 13.5%, but this doesn't matter as the intensity of the fruit (lychee mostly) balances this very well, as does the thick vanilla from the oak aging. It is fresh without food, but comes alive with a bird of some sort: I most recently enjoyed one with roast pheasant and the flavours burst out with impressive intensity. 10-15ppb.

• Pinot Noir, Au Bon Climat Winery, Santa Maria Valley –

One of my favourite wines, this is the wine that started my fascination with California, and with Pinot Noir. For the price it is exceptionally well-balanced, structured and has more depth than one would find in many Burgundies of the same price bracket. Made by the same vintner as the Wild Boy it shows similar characteristics, in that the alcohol is blended perfectly into the fruit. On the nose there is the dust farmyard one would expect from Pinot Noir, while the palate is a delicious blend of blackcurrant and blackberry: not acidic, and not jammy. It produces a lengthy and healthy finish that would be perfectly suited to duck dishes. 15-20ppb.

• Zinfandel, Ridge Vineyards, Lytton Springs –

An absolute classic, and a purely Californian grape. Normally Zinfandel can be overdone, too alcoholic, too spicy, too jammy, too intense. This is not the case here: Ridge's vineyard at Lytton Springs in Northern California a few hours north of San Francisco have cultivated a spectacular wine in this, and one that can be aged also. I have tried both the 2007 and the 2008, and they are truly remarkable. Deep dark fruits and peppery spices dominate the nose, while sweeter blueberry notes penetrate the palate. Gripping and intense tannins lengthen the finish and mean that it is more than a worthy substitute for a wine of Bordeaux stature and must be paired with beef. 25-35ppb.

A Spectacular Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2008

This is a wine that I have wanted to try for quite some time, since noticing it on the list at the restaurant where I work. Last night I got the chance, and it was worth every penny. I struggle to remember a white wine that has stunned me in such a way.

As someone who has ‘grown up’, as it were, on classic French Bordeaux and Burgundy, I have always been slightly sceptical of New World wines, and often discounted them (as I have mentioned in my previous post about Chile). However, this means that when I do come across something truly spectacular from the New World I feel I am more receptive of it: this is the case with the Paul Hobbs.

The 2008 Chardonnay saw a slightly troubled start to the growing season, which then exploded into a brilliant warm and stable summer, typical of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. The weather produced a well-defined and ripe crop which then responded very well to a year’s aging in 48% brand new French oak barrels. It was then bottled in January 2010 ready to be shipped out to be sold.

As soon as the bottle was opened the immediate area was filled with a luscious fruity sweetness and I knew it was going to be a bottle to remember. Once poured, it had a deep straw hue to it, with a sophisticated viscosity that suggested a high quality. On the nose, it presented with a hint of orange and pear, backed up generously by a thick oaky vanilla. On the palate the first impression it gave was a deeply developed honey with touches of butter. In terms of fruit, intense mango, pineapple and ripe apples are all evident, blended expertly with the richness from the oak and malolactic fermentation. The high alcohol content (14.5%) is not at all sharp and the wine does not appear ‘boozey’ in any way, which shows excellent craftsmanship. A lengthy finish with ever-developing textures of the oak makes for a truly enjoyable sip.

All in all, it is made with a strikingly Old World-style complexity: the balance and structure is never uneven, while all the flavours are impressively well-integrated. Available for around £30-40 it is not the cheapest wine around, but for a special occasion or the experience it is more than worth it. A true marvel from one of the most renowned New World regions.

Pictures from Paul Hobbs Winery website

Chile: One To Explore

For this post I am going to focus on some wines of Chile that I have recently tried and been very surprised with. Most of you I imagine, just as I did until last week, have a preconception that Chile produces cheap, not so high end, mass produced wine. To some extent this can be true. However, just the same can be said for California, South Africa, New Zealand, Australia and others, if one looks in the wrong place. I took some convincing it must be said, growing to enjoy wine by being taught on Burgundy, Bordeaux, the Mosel and Ridge Vineyards. 

Many winemakers in the New World are striving harder and harder to produce wine that emulates the Old World style of balance, depth, structure and perfect harmony of flavours and Casa Lapostolle are no different. My work recently at the Seafood Restaurant St Andrews has allowed me to taste a great variety of New World gems such as their 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, which had me guessing blind that it was of high end Californian origin. The nose is met with an intense ripe blackcurrant, while the palate develops into an amalgam of cedar wood, loose tea and cherries. The smooth yet feisty tannins round off what has been one of the most shocking wines I've tasted recently. It is from the Colchagua Valley to the south of the Chilean capital of Santiago. The valley is known for its dry heat, yet in this particular wine although it is clearly from the new world, the heat is blended expertly to produce something in no way overpowering. It is attractively priced at between 8 and 12 pounds per bottle and would be excellent paired with any lamb dish.

Picture: Justerini and Brooks

Another Chilean wine that has caught my eye recently is the Palomar Estate Merlot, also from the Colchagua Valley. What impresses me about this wine is that although it is a single variety Merlot (which is quite uncommon due to the grape's richness) it is not overly thick and oppressive. It is from the eastern part of the valley which is slightly cooler, and this helps soften the grape. It still possesses all the characteristics that one would desire from a big New World single varietal. The nose presents with a chocolatey richness and deep ripe blackberries, while the palate gives a viscous woody sweetness with a lengthy gripping finish. At 6.50-9 pounds per bottle it is not one to pass up, and would be delicious with liver and onions, or a classic sunday roast: the bold flavours in both would complement each other and neither would be washed out. 

There are many more Chilean gems that I could describe to you, but the best way to understand is to try for yourselves! Do test out some if you get the chance, there is way more to Chile than the supermarket aisles suggest. 

The Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

Previously in this blog I have tried my hand at a restaurant review (Dinner At The Seafood Restaurant, St Andrews). However, I focused more on the wine pairings I had chosen, rather than the restaurant itself. So, here is my first foray into food criticism.

The Old Parsonage Hotel in Oxford is situated in a fantastic old building about 10 minutes walk from the centre of the city. It is framed in ivy and the front terrace garden makes it a particularly attractive and aesthetically enticing prospect. I have heard about the legendary Cream Teas which they prepare, as well as their outdoor live jazz evenings in the summer. In addition I have visited the other restaurants owned by the same man – the reasonable and fashionable Quod Brasserie and the slightly over-priced, yet inventive Gee's Restaurant – therefore it was high time I gave this one a go.

After being invited warmly to a table, the first thing that impresses me is the cosy feel of the room itself, dotted with framed paintings and characterful fittings. The tables were perhaps a little small, but as it is not a restaurant that serves 5 or more course tasting menus this is not a real problem. In terms of food, the menu seems fresh, mostly seasonal and wide-ranging. I had a razor clam starter served with a small, crisp salad with garlic and parsley breadcrumbs which was beautifully presented in the shells and very well-cooked. My main of roast partridge left a little to be desired in presentation, cooking and thought, which was a shame. The dish was extremely dry (not complemented by the supermarket-esque 'rosti') and it may have been a sous-chef who has not cooked whole game before, but the bird was rather raw on one side and over-cooked on the other. No matter, as the cabbage with jus was extremely good and masked the moisture-less bird. As for my companion there was nothing but praise for the blue cheese and nut salad as well as the risotto.

Pictures from Old Parsonage website, left.

The wine list is not one that expects to be winning any awards, but is absolutely what one would desire from this sort of restaurant. It shows thought with a wide range of countries and grapes from both famed and less well-known producers. A bold move in placing a couple of a merchant's 'own brand' wines on a dinner menu is completely justified as the sommelier has obviously chosen the right merchant in Berry Bros and Rudd. My only slight quibble would be slightly over-priced wine by the glass for what they are, but the usual tendency would be to opt for a bottle with dinner anyway.

Overall the establishment has impressed me – the staff were friendly and knowledgeable, and the menu looks mostly well thought out with a more than decent wine list to complement. I would heartily recommend it to anyone in Oxford with an evening to spare, despite the price nearly edging into the category in which one would look for hints of AA Rosettes. Dinner for two (2 courses) with wine and coffees costs roughly between 80 and 100 pounds.  

Traditional Christmas

After having seen for sale a bottle of non-vintage "Christmas Red Merlot" recently, I thought it would be a good idea to write about traditional pairings for a tradition-steeped day. If this type of Christmas is not your traditional one, I do apologise, but it has been mine for most of my life! I aim here not to direct anyone to particular bottles, but to general regions and grapes - as everyone's cooking will no doubt differ. 

As I'm sure many will agree, we can disregard breakfast as a chance to pair a wine for obvious reasons. The next meal at which I can see the cracking of a bottle would surely be during the Queen's Christmas Message in the early afternoon, when the main meal is starting to get under way. I have always had smoked salmon with lemon and some form of sparkling wine to toast at the end. I would always suggest the complexity and dryness of a Champagne, as it binds so deliciously with the oily, smokey fish and the sharp acidic lemon. There are some pitfalls with champagne - such as spending one's money on a bottle of Veuve Clicquot or Moet et Chandon, when near exactly the same money could buy Laurent Perrier, Pol Roger or even a Bollinger - so beware of mass-production! 

In my household we have never had Christmas dinner divided into courses as such, more a multitude of dishes laid all over the dining table with everyone being then invited to dig in. In that respect it is difficult to fit in a nice white without it being over-powered by the roast. Therefore I would always have a nice bottle of dry Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc as an aperitif on the go while waiting for the main event. As for regions, I personally would always go with an Alsatian Riesling or a Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Call me traditionalist, but when there is no food to match I still feel they are the best crisp, fresh wines to drink. 

Christmas dinner food always changes, but it is most likely safe to say that usually a turkey, goose or duck appears somewhere, along with roast potatoes, bread and cranberry sauces, parsnips, carrots and brussels sprouts. With this array of robust and expressive flavours, the wine is crucial. In my opinion the perfect accompaniment would be a Burgundy (or a very good New Zealand) Pinot Noir. The flowery and aromatic style mixes very well with the light and dark meat of poultry and the jammy, ripe, fruitiness blends expertly with the sweetness of the sauces and vegetables. Typically well-suited regions I would recommend would be the Cote-de-Beaune in France, or Central Otago in New Zealand. 

As everyone I would hope is having a good time, my guess would be that the wine would not necessarily last too long. To mix things up a little, I would suggest to follow something heavier - to last into the serving of the Christmas pudding. For this, my recommendation would be for a good Bordeaux or a big, heavy Californian Grenache/Syrah blend. Both of these styles would work well towards the end of a Christmas dinner: the velvety, deep red berry texture of the Bordeaux would work with near any meal of substance, especially if any form of pork adorns the plate. A Californian Grenache/Syrah would lend a spicy, punchy note to the meal which would bind extremely well with the thick spiced Christmas pudding. Although both the wine and the pudding would be very high in alcohol, neither would be overpowering due to the mixing of spices and aggressive fruit flavours. 

By this time I am usually quite full and in need of a rest in front of the fire. There is, however, time for one last meal, and that means one last drink. In the evening with mince pies and Christmas cake the truly traditional accompaniment may be to some a sticky sweet Sauternes or Tokaji. My suggestions would be for either a Calvados (for those with a sweet tooth), or a nice Whisky. Something without too much saltiness and not too weak is the order - either a Highland or an Islay Single Malt would be perfect, giving a smokiness and a depth to the end of the evening. 

I hope this has put a few ideas in people's minds - and I wish everyone a Merry Christmas! 

Christmas Presents

Having a bit of a delay between posts has worked out quite well, as now that it is truly advent I feel I can legitimately write about potential Christmas gift ideas. Bordeaux and Burgundy aside, I have chosen three wines which I think are interesting, a bit off the wall and above all, great value for money.

The first is sometimes a bit hit and miss when it comes to different vintages, but one that is, in my opinion, one of the best substitutes for a Burgundy that can be found. It is a South African Hamilton Russell Chardonnay. Try if you can to get 2007/8/9, as they are the best expressions of the wine. The vineyard is situated in the far south next to the sea in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley appellation and enjoys a terroir and climate strikingly similar to that of Burgundy in France. The normal South African grapes are not found here, such as Chenin or Sauvignon and the Estate grows only Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The soil is full of clay and shale and this lends an intense depth and minerality to the wine. I have tried the 2009 most recently and it is a deep gold colour, despite it's youth. The nose is much more elegant than one would expect from a South African wine and gives hints of lemon and lime, as well as white fruits and a hint of creamy honey that distinguishes it as a Chardonnay. The palate is extremely full-bodied and really shows its Old World style - there is no aggressive sweetness or any overdone flavours: just a fresh and lengthy finish of butter and low acidity. As a whole it is stunning value for money and would add to a great variety of foods. The price per bottle ranges from 22-28 pounds and should be available in most bottle shops. 

The second wine would be an appreciated gift for anyone who has a small cellar or any interest in wine - it is not what one would expect at all. It is Charles Smith's 'Velvet Devil' Merlot from Washington State. Mainly interesting for the simple reason that good Washington wine is extremely underrated. I have tried the 2008 and it literally does what it says on the tin: the tannins are extremely soft and barely noticeable, the flavours are plush, soft and inviting and there is just the slightest hint of spice at the finish. Not one to save for a special occasion, but certainly worth a try - it is an off the wall gift wine. It is available for around 18-20 pounds per bottle from bottle shops. 

The last wine I would suggest as a gift is a Californian Pinot Noir, and one that is simply excellent value for money. Au Bon Climat's Santa Maria is a delicate, elegant and developed wine that would be appreciated by anyone. It is distinctly Californian - the heat shows through in the ripeness and full flavours throughout from the nose to the finish. There are notes of rich leather and a dusty farmyard blended expertly with ripe red fruits and a hint of jammy sweetness on the lengthy well-balanced finish. Interestingly the wine develops with some time open, unusual for a Pinot Noir, but for this one it works. The flowery fruity nose becomes more pronounced and a new complexity is gained on the palate. The wine maker Jim Clendenen describes it as lush, fragrant and bursting with berries, which is exactly what it is. It is attractively priced at between 15-20 pounds per bottle. 

I hope this gives you some ideas for gifts if wine was an option - happy buying!