A Spectacular Chardonnay

Paul Hobbs Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2008

This is a wine that I have wanted to try for quite some time, since noticing it on the list at the restaurant where I work. Last night I got the chance, and it was worth every penny. I struggle to remember a white wine that has stunned me in such a way.

As someone who has ‘grown up’, as it were, on classic French Bordeaux and Burgundy, I have always been slightly sceptical of New World wines, and often discounted them (as I have mentioned in my previous post about Chile). However, this means that when I do come across something truly spectacular from the New World I feel I am more receptive of it: this is the case with the Paul Hobbs.

The 2008 Chardonnay saw a slightly troubled start to the growing season, which then exploded into a brilliant warm and stable summer, typical of the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County. The weather produced a well-defined and ripe crop which then responded very well to a year’s aging in 48% brand new French oak barrels. It was then bottled in January 2010 ready to be shipped out to be sold.

As soon as the bottle was opened the immediate area was filled with a luscious fruity sweetness and I knew it was going to be a bottle to remember. Once poured, it had a deep straw hue to it, with a sophisticated viscosity that suggested a high quality. On the nose, it presented with a hint of orange and pear, backed up generously by a thick oaky vanilla. On the palate the first impression it gave was a deeply developed honey with touches of butter. In terms of fruit, intense mango, pineapple and ripe apples are all evident, blended expertly with the richness from the oak and malolactic fermentation. The high alcohol content (14.5%) is not at all sharp and the wine does not appear ‘boozey’ in any way, which shows excellent craftsmanship. A lengthy finish with ever-developing textures of the oak makes for a truly enjoyable sip.

All in all, it is made with a strikingly Old World-style complexity: the balance and structure is never uneven, while all the flavours are impressively well-integrated. Available for around £30-40 it is not the cheapest wine around, but for a special occasion or the experience it is more than worth it. A true marvel from one of the most renowned New World regions.

Pictures from Paul Hobbs Winery website