The Old Parsonage Hotel, Oxford

Previously in this blog I have tried my hand at a restaurant review (Dinner At The Seafood Restaurant, St Andrews). However, I focused more on the wine pairings I had chosen, rather than the restaurant itself. So, here is my first foray into food criticism.

The Old Parsonage Hotel in Oxford is situated in a fantastic old building about 10 minutes walk from the centre of the city. It is framed in ivy and the front terrace garden makes it a particularly attractive and aesthetically enticing prospect. I have heard about the legendary Cream Teas which they prepare, as well as their outdoor live jazz evenings in the summer. In addition I have visited the other restaurants owned by the same man – the reasonable and fashionable Quod Brasserie and the slightly over-priced, yet inventive Gee's Restaurant – therefore it was high time I gave this one a go.

After being invited warmly to a table, the first thing that impresses me is the cosy feel of the room itself, dotted with framed paintings and characterful fittings. The tables were perhaps a little small, but as it is not a restaurant that serves 5 or more course tasting menus this is not a real problem. In terms of food, the menu seems fresh, mostly seasonal and wide-ranging. I had a razor clam starter served with a small, crisp salad with garlic and parsley breadcrumbs which was beautifully presented in the shells and very well-cooked. My main of roast partridge left a little to be desired in presentation, cooking and thought, which was a shame. The dish was extremely dry (not complemented by the supermarket-esque 'rosti') and it may have been a sous-chef who has not cooked whole game before, but the bird was rather raw on one side and over-cooked on the other. No matter, as the cabbage with jus was extremely good and masked the moisture-less bird. As for my companion there was nothing but praise for the blue cheese and nut salad as well as the risotto.

Pictures from Old Parsonage website, left.

The wine list is not one that expects to be winning any awards, but is absolutely what one would desire from this sort of restaurant. It shows thought with a wide range of countries and grapes from both famed and less well-known producers. A bold move in placing a couple of a merchant's 'own brand' wines on a dinner menu is completely justified as the sommelier has obviously chosen the right merchant in Berry Bros and Rudd. My only slight quibble would be slightly over-priced wine by the glass for what they are, but the usual tendency would be to opt for a bottle with dinner anyway.

Overall the establishment has impressed me – the staff were friendly and knowledgeable, and the menu looks mostly well thought out with a more than decent wine list to complement. I would heartily recommend it to anyone in Oxford with an evening to spare, despite the price nearly edging into the category in which one would look for hints of AA Rosettes. Dinner for two (2 courses) with wine and coffees costs roughly between 80 and 100 pounds.