Notes from Portugal

I have recently spent a week in southern Portugal and much to my delight, was spoilt for choice when it came to wine. Like most European countries that aren't Great Britain, Portugal's wine culture is one that regards a bottle of wine not as an alcoholic drink to control, but an accompaniment to food; a refreshing drink on a hot summer's day. This is shown of course by restaurants serving nips of Port or Moscatel de Setubal when the bill is asked for. Mostly, however, it is shown in the price. Bottles in the supermarket start at around €1.49 and in restaurants at around €10. 'Wait!' I hear you cry - 'I can buy Tesco wines for £3 and Wetherspoons has bottle offers for £12!' The difference, however, is substantial. The huge amount of tax on wines imported to the UK means that the cheapest bargain bottles will have literally pennies spent on production, forcing supermarkets and pub chains to buy wine made in vast bulk quantities with little regard for quality. This is not the case in Portugal. What makes Portugal even more interesting is that most people - even wine geeks - have little to no idea about the intricacies of Portuguese grape varieties. 

There is a massive variety of styles made in the relatively small 600x200km country. From the lightest, freshest white Vinho Verde to the richest, booziest red Port there is a style for everyone. That is what made this trip exciting. Anyone who gets the chance to visit should try this: go to a local supermarket (bear with me here) and pick a random four bottles. When they are done, go do it again. It will never get old. The occasional bottle I recognised as being sold in the UK, but that only made me savour the experience more (Lavradores de Feitora Branco, a white wine from the Douro was €2.49, sold in the UK for £9.99). 

For those who like wine and are interested in more than being amazed at price differences in the EU, here is the fine print. Portugal's wine industry is made up of a number of cooperatives, and more recently, of a growing proportion of single estates (quintas) that continue to use local varietals with difficult-to-pronounce names. Inroads made by international varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Chardonnay are minimal and this serves to preserve what is one of the oldest geographically protected wine systems in Europe, which dates back to the mid-eighteenth century. Rapid modernisation since Portugal's entrance into the EU in 1986 thankfully hasn't changed the variety that makes Portugal's wine industry so interesting and enjoyable to explore. 

Here are a few styles that caught my attention while I was there:

Vinho Verde: It is always put on a different section in wine lists (Green Wine, White Wine, Red Wine) and with good reason. These wines from the north-west are made predominantly from Alvarinho and are often ever so slightly sparkling. They are also around 12%abv and are perfect summer wines. Light, refreshing and citrus-y, and in my opinion, far more exciting than generic Sauvignon Blanc.

Douro: Reds make up 80% of production here and are dry, powerful wines. Intense tannins and ripe fruit is often backed up with well-balanced acidity. If you splash out on a €10 bottle, expect complex spices and oak influences. Case-in-point: Quinta do Vale Meao's Meandro, €10.49 in a supermarket and an outstanding blend of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Rouriz and Sousao. 

Bairrada: Aromatic, yet crisp, whites were the most interesting from this region to the south-west of the Douro, with the reds too sharp in youth. Blends of Fernao Pires, Arinto and Cercial were great alternatives to Viognier or even Gewuertztraminer, with lovely weight and texture, ripe tropical fruits and good structure throughout.

All in all, Portugal was an amazing place to explore wine. The array of grapes and styles is endless, from the north to the south. There is far more in Portugal than just Port, and even though the taxes in the UK are vast, they are for all wines and most from Portugal still outstrip other countries in terms of value for money. Needless to say, it is a whole other story if you get the chance to visit yourself! Next time you are looking to try something new, ask your local bottle shop about their selection of Portuguese wines - you never know what gem you'll find.

A Year of Study, What Now?

Well, it has been nearly a year since my last post, which was about a visit to Montoliva Winery in the Sierra Foothills of Northern California. Much has happened since then - for both wine and non-wine things. A year as Captain of the Blind Tasting Team has opened my eyes to new and exciting styles and varieties as well as led to tasting success at the Sciences Po International Tasting VI at Champagne Bollinger (3rd place for St Andrews) and putting up a valiant effort at the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup qualifier in London and our Pol Roger Varsity match against Edinburgh. My final year at university will hopefully yield a degree (results coming shortly); essay work certainly led to off-topic diversions into the history of wine and grape migration to California, South America and Australia... In between tasting and university has been the WSET Level 3 course, a British-based Wine and Spirit qualification that has laid good foundations for further wine study. 

But what next?

In September I shall be traveling half way around the world to Adelaide, South Australia. I have been lucky enough to secure an internship with Yalumba, a family-owned winery in the Barossa Valley, and will be working there for a month, trying to learn as much as possible about the production process. (Yalumba, interestingly, has been a star winery in Oz for me for a while. Their Viognier is amazing and was a staple on the restaurant wine list. Check out What To Do With Viognier.) In the meantime, I am splitting my week between Luvians Bottle Shop (sales) and The Seafood Restaurant (sommelier) in beautiful St Andrews, Scotland. I'll be starting to post more regularly - musings about the industry, pairings, memorable wines - so pop back for nuggets of knowledge about all things viniferous: though I can't guarantee you'll agree with it all. If you're hip enough to have a Twitter, follow me @ItsInTheSwirl for 140-character opinions, when the mood strikes. 

Above all enjoy the sun and crack a bottle of something tasty!

A Touch Of Italy In The Sierra Foothills

The first place I visited this summer exploring the lesser-known areas of California's wine country was Montoliva Vineyard and Winery in Chicago Park, about an hour north-east of Sacramento. Montoliva is geographically on the outskirts of the Sierra Foothills AVA and is rather unique in that it only produces Italian varietals. Other small wineries in the region (Nevada County) use Italian varietals also in order to exploit the similarities with Tuscan soils, however none quite the same way as Montoliva. 

The owner and winemaker, Mark Henry, is clearly passionate about producing high quality wine that is enjoyable - but he is very clear about how that might not be enjoyable for all. As he put it to another visitor to the tasting room: 'Do not expect any of my wines to be like the usual Californian style: you may not like them.' All of the wines are made in Old World Italian styles, and the reds, therefore, are the showcases, the whites an introduction.

But what an introduction! Pinot Grigio was the variety he had chosen and the vines were planted just to the north, in North San Juan, a little higher in elevation than Chicago Park and a cooler climate, not unlike the hills of Fruili. It was an earthy wine with a pleasant crisp finish. The 2012 is rather muscular and the flavour did not wash out as much New World Pinot Gris/gio is liable to do. 

Sangiovese is the most-planted vine and I tried the 2007 and the Estate 2008. Both showed the characteristic Italian acidity and high tannins, and both were much better than a great many wines I have had from Italy! With a minimum of two years in neutral oak, there was a great complexity to the wine, yet it was not a sweet oaked complexity, but a lean, lengthy and savoury one. 

A 2008 Aglianico (originally from Southern Italy) was what followed. It was fuller and fruitier than the Sangioveses, with an intense eucalyptus finish, yet still carried the acidity and balance that made the previous two so enjoyable. Aglianico is the second-most popular wine in Italy and with the way it is being developed here, could very well make a run in the States in the future. 

Montoliva (now winning multiple awards for its wines) showed me why the lack of regulation on varietals is such a great thing in California. Without the history, development and regulation that is seen in the Old World, California is able to try as many varieties as possible and find what grows best, and where. Clearly in Chicago Park outstanding, engaging and truly Italian-influenced wines can be produced in a way that I (and I'm sure many others) did not consider.

Other wines tried: 

Sei Ore Rose - Sangiovese Rose with a slight second fermentation making it frizzante - refreshing, with body and not too sweet.

Sierra Bella 09 table blend - Fruity, spicy, complex, leathery... the list goes on. Lovely, balanced blend. Click for a full review!

Barbera 09 - Bright and lively, yet full-bodied. Almost sherried nose.

Dolcetto 09 - Velvety and intense, with a cool, clean mid-palate, before a spiced finish. One for food.

Late Harvest Barbera - A sweet wine made after an extra month of ripening on the vines, with 5% residual sugar. Lovely berry nose but a little syrupy on the palate.

Montoliva Sierra Bella, Chicago Park, Sierra Foothills, California, 2009

The first winery that I visited was this one, around the corner from where I was staying. The small production I hoped would yield high quality and that's exactly what I found! The vineyard grows only Italian varietals in the Italian style and this is their red table wine, a blend of Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Barbera and Teroldego.

Appearance: The wine looks dark and sleek, with an inky purple to it. It is light bodied and dances around the glass.

Nose: Very high acidity is the first thing you notice. This gives way to cinnamon, clove, anise and redcurrants.

Palate: The high acidity carries itself through a mid-palate of dark fruits and tar to the strict tannins. These, however, do not overpower the flavour, but enhance it into a complex, full-bodied finish with notes of leather and licorice. 

Rating: This wine (really the whole winery) surprised me. It completely bucks the trend in Californian wines towards sweet, thick fruity reds: There is freshness and acidity and there are stringent, Old World-style, savoury flavours throughout. Those looking for bold, oaky American wines will be disappointed, but those looking for an interesting, well-priced ($15), wonderfully food-friendly wine that shows the potential of a region on the rise will be more than satisfied. 8.5/10

Gnarly Head Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi, CA, USA, 2011

This was the first wine on my 2013 California trip that I tried. Their Zin has made it across the pond (and is quite delicious at around 10 pounds per bottle), but this was the first I had seen of any other varietal. I went in expecting a big, juicy American brute of a Cab... and that's what I found!

Appearance: A strong garnet centre moved to a more purple edge with a youthful sheen to it. 

Nose: The nose starts with a slight freshness to it, with a hint of acidity, but its underlying power is almost tangible. Notes of coffee, stewed plum and aggressive cedar.

Palate: Though there is a touch of acidity, it gives way to a fruity crispness of currants and cranberries, which is then quickly washed away by thick, riper, sweeter fruits. There is a slight herbaceous zing to the back of the palate and a slight spice, but the finish is tainted by an alcoholic bite.

Rating: At 10 US dollars per bottle in California there is not much to complain about if it is the style you are looking for: it is a beefy, aggressive, thick American Cab with plenty of wood and high in alcohol (the label says 14.5). Definitely one to have with food. 7/10.

Gusbourne Estate Sparkling Rose, Kent, England, 2009

English sparkling wine is clearly going from strength to strength and although the prices are rising a little from what they were a few years ago, the increase in quality is far higher. The estate in Kent enjoys south-facing slopes for the vines, very little wind and crisp, cold winters - perfect for wines made in the traditional methode champenoise.

Appearance: Pure, fine bubbles rise invitingly, with a medium salmon pink tint to the wine. 

Nose: There is plenty of acidity, as well as a delicate array of fine brown sugar, ripe strawberries and bramble leaf.

Palate: The acidity certainly carries through to the palate, yet is balanced by a stout body and rich, structured blend of raspberry and fresh cherry. A crisp, dry finish leaves an elegant taste in the mouth, with hints of currants and rhubarb.

Rating: I first tried Gusbourne's Brut two years ago when they were on the 2006 and loved it immediately. The Rose is a joy: high quality winemaking and clearly excellent grapes make for a delicious drop. Being a minimum of around £10 less than any of the big name Rose Champagnes only adds to its appeal. 9/10

Both were tasted at the Cherwell Boathouse in Oxford - anyone nearby should definitely make the trip for a bottle. It has also now been picked up as a house wine at Selfridges.

The Left Bank: Feeling Wine

The final competition of the Tasting Team calendar is the Left Bank Bordeaux Cup, the first round of which is hosted by the Commanderie du Bontemps in London. Other first round matches are held in France, USA and China with the top two teams progressing to the final in Bordeaux. Though St Andrews did not make the final, I was enlightened by the experience and, of course, the practise. In the weeks running up to the competition we tasted all we could from the Left Bank, from Médoc and Haut-Médoc to St-Estèphe, Pauillac, St-Julien, Listrac, Moulis and Margaux, down to Pessac-Léognan and Graves. There was even a set of questions on Sauternes and Barsac. While the sweet wine was delicious, it was the reds that fascinated me. 

Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac

We were training to be able to pick out the regions and communes, as well as the vintages of wines we were given. Initially I felt very daunted by the prospect. Before this, I had been rather taken with New World opulence, such as can be found in Californian Cabernets, and had not been tasting many French wines. I went in expecting to have to learn specific flavour, body and character differences for each village, yet when we began trying to break down each wine we tried, I realised how subjective and general much of this was. There was an astonishing level of depth and flavour for everything we tried - so much so that after a while, my tasting notes began to look more and more like a rather strange shopping list. On one particular comparison between a St-Julien and a Pauillac everything from mushrooms, tobacco, cassis, new leather shoes, cocoa and coffee to bell peppers, cumin, rubber, mint and strawberries appeared at some point.

Taking a step back, I looked to the basic composition of each commune and my initial first impressions of each wine. Rather than trying to come up with a formula, I decided to go on particular characteristics that seemed to jump out when I tasted each one for the first time. The first thing to know when thinking about the Left Bank is the soil. In the north (Médoc, Haut-Médoc, St-Estèphe, Pauillac) there is much more clay in the soils, which, generally speaking, allows for a thicker, more fertile and fruity wine. Further south, there is more gravel (St-Julien, Margaux and Graves). This allows more drainage and the wines typically show more delicacy and perfume, as well as a more stoney minerality. 

While Bordeaux now is typically much more expensive than many other regions, what I learned from the few weeks of Bordeaux tasting is that there is still something to be said for France's claim to make the best red wine. I will steer clear of agreeing or disagreeing with that statement just yet, though I will say that by working my way down the Left Bank I have a great appreciation for depth and character of the wines. The complexity and harmony of the flavours is unparalleled. When tasting, though it sounds cheesy, try to the feel the differences in the wines: a much better way of appreciating and beginning to understand the differences between the communes. 

Haut-Médoc: Power and thickness are key. One to try is Chateau Cissac.

St-Estèphe: Look for darker notes (tar, coffee, chocolate) and savoury touches. One to try is Chateau Meyney.

Pauillac: Velvety. One to try is Chateau Pontet-Canet.

St-Julien: Lean and woody, look for red fruits. One to try is Clos du Marquis (second label of Léoville-Las Cases).

Margaux: Delicate and perfumed, subtle and herbaceous. One to try is Chateau Martinens.

Graves: Stoney, yet delicate. Supple fruit. One to try is Chateau Peyrat.